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Changing O2 sensors
I've done several different searches and can't seem to find a decent step by step on this. I know a lot of people have done this and it is pretty quick and easy, but any tips, tricks, procedures, etc to share?
Thanks!
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Troy 1992 SVX LSL "Serenity" 250,000 miles! I don't care, I'm still free, You can't take the sky from me... |
#2
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The easiest way to remove the electrical connectors, is to take a standard blade screwdriver, reach up and put it under the locking "flap", and while pulling lightly on the cable to the O2 sensor, reach in and twist the screwdriver slightly to release the electrical connection. The O2 sensors themselves are easily unscrewed with the correct size wrench, 7/8", or 13/16" hexagonal box wrench.(whichever fits) I personally do NOT recomend the "splice ours to yours" O2 sensor, but a Bosch factory equalivent if fine. Once you do it, you will see how easy it is, it's no big deal.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#3
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Just to be sure, spray the sensors with penetrating fluid of choice and give it time to do its job before attempting to remove the sensors.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#4
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[/COLOR][/COLOR]-Scott My Locker 2014 Grey Ford Fusion 2.0 EcoBoost Bought: 12-5-14 2005 Silver Legacy GT Ltd 5mt. Bought: 3-3-07 Sold: 12-5-14 1996 Brilliant Red L (AWD). Bought: 6-14-04 - Sold: 3-3-07 - 15.370 @ 89.65 1992 Claret/black LS #4086 (GF's). Bought: 6-30-04 - Sold: 7-29-07 1994 Pearl White LSi Bought: 2001? Sold: 2004? |
#5
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Don't forget to apply the metallic powder anti-sieze lubricant to the threads of the sensor. I think the exhaust system is the ground and there needs to be conductivity. I also wire brushed the threads inside on the exhaust mounts.
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'95 SVX LSI Black, just wire mod. New speakers + homemade front mounts. "In times of peace, a gentleman keeps his sword at his side." Sun Tzu c 300 b.c. |
#6
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Thanks for the advice so far.
But it took me 20 minutes just to get one connector off! How do you guys do it, from the top, or from under the car? The connector locations seem to be jammed in there right between with hardly any clearance on either side to get a hand in there, much less and hand and screwdriver at the same time. After I somehow got one connector off, I then attempted to remove the sensor with a ratchet and special O2 socket, but it wouldn't budge (should have paid attention to that advice). I pulled so hard that the entire exhaust was moving a bit but still not the socket. Guess I'll have to try the penetrating oil. Then took me another 20 minutes to get the old connector back on, they only go on one way and there is no way to see or feel what you are doing up in that tight space. I'm not sure how I even got it to click, but eventually it did and the car runs so.... Any more advice in this area? Thanks!
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Troy 1992 SVX LSL "Serenity" 250,000 miles! I don't care, I'm still free, You can't take the sky from me... |
#7
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I disconnect mine from under the car. That way I only have to pull on the wire, a little bit, while inserting and twisting the screwdriver.
To connect them, you have to line them up first, it can only go on one way, and squeeze them together. It does get easier as you do them.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#8
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While i used penetrating oil when doing mine... by far the EASIEST way is to spray some penetrating oil on, then run the car and get everything up to temp... then get it up on a lift, or high up on jackstands... comes out with a moderate amount of force.
also, the splicers are fine (what i put on my car right now) as long as you splice the correct wires together. that way you don't have to mess with the clips that for some reason, i suck at undoing.
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Greg 97 Red SVX LSi clean 96 Black SVX LSi beater 90 Red Eclipse GSX track ho 99 Ford F250 work horse My Locker |
#9
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OK I'm an idiot...WHERE is the third one? I replaced two of mine (the front two I guess) some time ago, but never thought there were three. Anybody?
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Jerry 2005 Baja Turbo 2008 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor jnj7707@yahoo.com |
#10
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Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#11
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Sorry for the confusion guys. The 96-97 OBDII cars have a 3rd O2 sensor after the Y-pipe. From what I've read, this 3rd one is used to monitor the efficiency of the cat's, but has no effect on any engine parameters. Again, sorry about that, didnt even think of it. I mean...they all have it, you should go back and look harder!!
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[/COLOR][/COLOR]-Scott My Locker 2014 Grey Ford Fusion 2.0 EcoBoost Bought: 12-5-14 2005 Silver Legacy GT Ltd 5mt. Bought: 3-3-07 Sold: 12-5-14 1996 Brilliant Red L (AWD). Bought: 6-14-04 - Sold: 3-3-07 - 15.370 @ 89.65 1992 Claret/black LS #4086 (GF's). Bought: 6-30-04 - Sold: 7-29-07 1994 Pearl White LSi Bought: 2001? Sold: 2004? |
#12
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My 92 has a third O2 sensor.
I installed it to feed my air/fuel ratio gauge.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#13
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Greg 97 Red SVX LSi clean 96 Black SVX LSi beater 90 Red Eclipse GSX track ho 99 Ford F250 work horse My Locker |
#14
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[QUOTE=svxfiles]My 92 has a third O2 sensor.
Good thing I scrolled down....
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Jerry 2005 Baja Turbo 2008 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor jnj7707@yahoo.com |
#15
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Ricky and I changed the sensors on Friday afternoon, so we could drive to the California meet. We raised the car on stands, slid in on a creeper. Disconnected the wires from below with a long screwdriver as SVXfiles instucted, and reconnected on top with help underneath.
Also, I bought a O2 socket and a 7/8 tubing wrench in case needed, they weren't needed, will return them. After disconnecting the wires, I used a long 7/8 box as SVXfiles predicted. The left sensor came out easy enough. The right sensor made a turn or so then started to grab. So, I tightened it up, and used some penetrating stuff. Oh, I had to loosen the right exhaust shield to get the box wrench on the right sensor. After a little work, both sensors were out, the new one in, the wires clipped and ready to test. Used Walker sensors by the way, good for 110 mph bursts down I-5 to the California meet. The Walkers are wired correctly. Then, I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes. Reconnected, the Check engine light was still on. A short drive but the car didn't run well. Disconnected the battery overnight. Hooked it up the next morning, no light, sounded good, drove several hundred miles of fun with no CE light. Fun, fun, fun! Thanks guys. Anyone with a jack, stands, box wrench and screw-driver can do the job. Quote:
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