Hood and Trunk Strut Redo Redux

[LetItSnow]

WATCH THIS SPACE!

I'll update this thread with the hood and trunk strut rebuilds, using aftermarket bits. Everything you need to know. Every cut, every part, every spec.

Complete: Everything is installed! Next: The How-To!

Experiment results so far:

* The 90# struts make a much better replacement up front than the 120# ones; they still lift the hood themselves, but they're definitely more civilized when closing.

* The measurements made in the original hood strut How To are short about an inch and a half. Thanks to John for the correction.

* With both 80# struts installed in the trunk, it won't pop it up, and it won't let it float down, so keep the kids' fingers out, but it does move in a much more friendly fashion. You still have to control its speed, but it's with a lot less effort. For note: My trunk has the wing.

* The trunk strut mod is currently facing a problem that was pointed out to me. Hood struts are still super good, though.

Bill of Materials (in progress):

I got these from ASRaymond:

Qty P/N Item Price Extended

2 GSNI225090 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (hood strut) $16.19 $32.38
2 GSNI515080 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (trunk strut) $14.13 $28.26
2 BS1002 Ball Stud $ 1.02 $ 2.04
6 BS11208 Ball Stud $ 1.39 $ 8.34
Shipping $13ish $13ish
$84.02

You'll also need:

(6) 1/4-20 nuts, stainless steel, which should cost about $2.
(2) washers - I used 6mm, with the smallest OD I could find. About $1.00
Paint for the brackets, if you're the type that doesn't care for exposed metal

Get some cutoff wheels for the Dremel, too!
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[processengr]

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Hi,
I have done the hood strut mod, originated by LetItSnow. Read 1st thread (NOT the trunk mod) and it is easy to do and works excellent for about $50.00

Slightly modified BOM
Qty P/N Item Price Extended
2 GSNI225090 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (hood strut) $16.54 $33.08
4 BS1002 Ball Stud (hood strut and base) $ 1.02 each $ 4.08
2 M8 Nuts $ ~.75 each. $1.50 a pair

Shipping $13.00 approx.
~$50.00

EDIT:
The 10mm ball stud (BS1002) with 8mm shank fits the oversize hole in bracket with reused plastic bushing better than the original stud with 1/4-20 shank.
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[Wikedjuggalo]

Never noticed that sticker before, if going over 150 MPH increase tire pressure to 40 psi :O 150 is damn fast!

[Mike621]

Is there a way to do this without tapping or drilling? I don't have those tools at my disposal and my hood struts are blown completely from the car sitting with the hood down for a year.

[LetItSnow]

Wow, a lot has happened since Mike's post above - he's had my strut mod on for a while now!

I don't know exactly where my completed writeup went, but this picture tells the story. (EDIT, it's over <here>.) You essentially split the strut's bottom bracket and keep just the part that mounts to the body. The hole in the bracket is rather large, so placing a washer inside it allows a ball stud to hold in place. No tapping, no place for wobbly bits, no grabbing the strut rod with vice grips, and no obstructions if you choose to blast/sand/paint. There's not much to it.



I know this is quite a bump, but the thread was linked to today, so I figured I'd finish my part!

[svxcess]

Please post those actual SPD part numbers for the struts again, along with the ball studs.

Originally Posted by LetItSnow

Wow, a lot has happened since Mike's post above - he's had my strut mod on for a while now!

I don't know exactly where my completed writeup went, but this picture tells the story. (EDIT, it's over <here>.) You essentially split the strut's bottom bracket and keep just the part that mounts to the body. The hole in the bracket is rather large, so placing a washer inside it allows a ball stud to hold in place. No tapping, no place for wobbly bits, no grabbing the strut rod with vice grips, and no obstructions if you choose to blast/sand/paint. There's not much to it.



I know this is quite a bump, but the thread was linked to today, so I figured I'd finish my part!

[svxcess]

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I redid my hood struts today using LetItSnow's method and it works better than my original modification.

I found there is an easier way to do this. Just drill out the rivet that holds the bracket together and discard the rivet.

Once the two pieces of the bracket separate, you will find a small nylon bushing that fits perfectly into the hole in the bracket where the ball stud attaches.









Insert the bushing into the hole from the inside of the bracket (closest to the engine). It fills the hole perfectly, fits flush and allows you to use the same M8 x 1.25 ball stud that is used on the hood.

Insert the ball stud through the bracket hole and bushing (with the ball end pointing toward the fender) and secure with a M8 x 1.25 nut.






All you need is listed below. No trimming, cutting. Truly plug and play.

[2] M8 x 1.25 nuts
[2] nylon bushings

[4] BS-1002 ball studs
[2] GSNI-2250-90 struts.


AS Raymond Gas Springs Page

Toll-free Phone: 1-800-720-2633

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[svxcess]

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There is an additional update to the gas strut numbers. I received this information from Ed Del Monte "ZMan". He has been in direct contact with tech support at SPD and found out the following information.

There is another strut that can be used in our hood applications that allow our hoods to open even further. It is a new addition to their current lineup.

The other strut number is SPD GSNI- 2449-89

As you can see by the specs, it is rated at 89.9 lbs. force, instead of 90.0.

The rod diameter, tube diameter and price remain the same, but the extended length is .6 inches longer, the compressed length is about .36 inches longer and the stroke is about .37 inches longer.

He installed them on his car and has confirmed that they fit without any issues and the hood opens appreciably higher than the 2250-90 struts in this original modification.

We will get exact measurement differences in opening height between these
two struts, as well as comparing them to the stock units, and post those numbers.

Thanks to ZMan for stumbling upon this.

......

http://www.asraymond.com/catalog.html?cid=ha-standard&id=GSNI244989

800.872.7732


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[svxcess]

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Here are the measurements of the hood openings for the various struts.

ZMan provided the measurements from both of his SVXs, one with original OEM struts and one with the newer 2449-89. I have the 2250-90 struts on my polo for measurement.

My 2250-90 struts open 1" less than stock.
The 2249-89 struts open 1.5" more than stock

The SPD struts go for $32.38 a pair; the OEM struts are $150.72 a pair from subaruparts. List is $197.80 a pair





The OEM struts measure 18.5" from center of ball on hood to pivot point on the strut bracket (which is where the new struts attach)

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[ensteele]

John - now it is time to do the same thing with the trunk struts.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by kinz

These struts any different then the offerings from a local auto store? I picked some up that were very close in length. Only problem I anticipate is strength. Do they generally carry struts weaker than what our hoods call for?

SPD manufactures thier own units and have good quality control. It is not always easy to discern where aftermarket hood struts found at NAPA, Advance Auto and AutoZone are manufactured.

We have tried many types of alternative struts fron NAPA, etc. Finding the right length (both compressed and extended) and the proper pressure is not easy.

What is the pressure rating of your struts? 90 lbs is an reasonable number; fairly stiff in the warmer months and a little easier in the winter. Anything with less pressure will have a harder time in the winter after a while

110-120lbs is too strong and could cause problems.

I also found that the SPD struts, at $16.19 each, are cheaper than auto store units.

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[icingdeath88]

Originally Posted by ensteele

John - now it is time to do the same thing with the trunk struts.

+1, Trunk struts seem kinda urgent, at least to me. Gotta stop the "Don't slam the *thud* trunk...".

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

+1, Trunk struts seem kinda urgent, at least to me. Gotta stop the "Don't slam the *thud* trunk...".

You cannot improve upon the factory trunk struts. They are the only design that allows the trunklid to open a full 90°. With every other strut, the trunk does not open fully.

Gsodonis did the mod using Strong Arm gas charged lstruts #4468, but they don't open as far as OEM.

......

His writeup can be found HERE




The OEM trunk struts are a lot cheaper than the OEM hood struts, about $50.00 each
57521PA000 RH
57521PA010 LH

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[SilverSpear]

Originally Posted by svxcess

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Here are the measurements of the hood openings for the various struts.

ZMan provided the measurements from both of his SVXs, one with original OEM struts and one with the newer 2449-89. I have the 2250-90 struts on my polo for measurement.

My 2250-90 struts open 1" less than stock.
The 2249-89 struts open 1.5" more than stock

The SPD struts go for $32.38 a pair; the OEM struts are $150.72 a pair from subaruparts. List is $197.80 a pair





Danny, the OEM struts measure 18.5" from center of ball on hood to pivot point on the strut bracket (which is where the new struts attach)


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Amazing presentation skills
Thanks John

[svxcess]

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Here is a POSSIBLE trunk strut replacement (also from SPD)

First the specs of the OEM trunk struts.

From pivot to pivot, the stock trunk struts have a compressed length of 9.25" and an extended length of 13.625"


The Strong Arm 4468 trunk struts used Gsodonis's writeup have a compressed length of 8.9", but an extended length of only 13.1" (which is shorter than stock and the reason why the trunk does not open fully)


SPD has a strut GSNI-4340-78. This strut has a compressed length of 8.81" (similar to the Strong Arm) BUT a longer extended length of 14.81".

This should allow the trunk to open slightly past 90° until stopped by the hinge. You could drill the ball stud mounting hole on the bottom bracket further back to shorten the throw. This strut has a pressure rating of 79 lbs.

Should be worth investigating...


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