ECUTune Stage III twin screw supercharger sign up

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by mikecg

Install had an issue that took some time to work out. The car wouldnt ran ruff and didnt seem to have any power. After 32 hours of nonstop work by Mike with me as assistant , we got the car running. It turned out that the Supercharger by-pass was too small on the redesigned system, and the hoses were colapsing under the suction. We fixed it by installing a 1.25 in reinforced rubber radiator hose into the system. It ran much better while it was parked. I'm assuming it has a huge amount of power. I'm assuming this, because we went about 10ft through the parking lot before what I suspect is the front diff decided to self destruct. The car is still in his shop. I'll be needing to get it repaired, hopefully by friday to drive home.

Thanks for the update Mike. Dayum. Sorry to hear your front diff didn't last...

-Chike

[longassname]

I think it went a good 20 feet.

[longassname]

Pictures will be coming soon. The system looks fantastic installed. Mike took pictures through out the installation both on his camera and mine. The pics on my camera are to be used for the installation manual. I'll post some of them in the next couple of days. I also wrote down the instructions as we did the install.

I think we've firmly established that the 2 wheel drive svx with it's open dif can't take the power of the stage 3 system. Mike's been planning on having his car converted to a manual awd, 6 speed i believe. He just wanted the stage 3 in this svx as opposed to his other because this one is cherry with low miles.

[TomsSVX]

Sounds like a solid plan. How do u guys plan to get it out of FL though?? Glad to hear the systems are running properly

Tom

[mikecg]

Sadly I'm paying for repairs to it, rather than hauling it home.

[TomsSVX]

Well Mike, you know who to talk to when you are ready to do the 6mt AWD conversion Good luck in the mean time

Tom

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by longassname

Pictures will be coming soon. The system looks fantastic installed.

He just wanted the stage 3 in this svx as opposed to his other because this one is cherry with low miles.

Not anymore.... You know, they have laws against this sort of thing in most states
-Bill

[Earthworm]

Originally Posted by longassname

I think it went a good 20 feet.

Just measure the strips of rubber on the ground!

[lhopp77]

So still no dyno data for the setup?

Lee

[mikecg]

Originally Posted by Earthworm

Just measure the strips of rubber on the ground!

No strips of rubber. The power never made it to the tires. That or the KDW-2's have gripping power than the strength of the diff. There wasn't even a churp, just a loud bang.

[mikecg]

Originally Posted by lhopp77

So still no dyno data for the setup?

Lee

The "more power than the driveline can handle" isnt an exceptable enough estimate for you? There is no denigning that it makes power. I have done an accidentle nuetral drop when it was stock without causing any damage. This was just a flick to between 1/2 and 2/3's throttle. I think it's at least double the stock numbers. I do have the pre-modd dyno numbers if your interested in those. I believe they were a lowest pull of 171hp and a highest of 187hp.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Well Mike, you know who to talk to when you are ready to do the twin plate clutch, 6mt AWD conversion Good luck in the mean time

Tom

Fixed you post Tom.

Harvey.

[longassname]

Ok, here are a bunch of pictures. I'm posting them as links since there are so many. There are a few steps left out by accident, namely the install of the tensioner but it's only two bolts.


the silver parts hung and about to be powder coated.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2656.jpg

the silver parts powder coated and in the oven
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2661.jpg

the black parts hung and powder coated
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2665.jpg

the mass air meter wiring
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2667.jpg

We started the install by jacking the front of the car up and supporting it on jack stands. It stayed this way for the entire install which makes it much easier on the back and allows for easy removal of the fans and installation of the alternator. The driver's fan comes out easily through the top. The passenger fan comes out easily from the bottom. We then unbolted the power steering pulley and crank pulley with the belts still attached. Then we removed the belts, the pulleys, and the alternator. Then we installed the new crank and power steering pulleys.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2672.jpg

Next the plugs are removed from the oil pump. Depending on the year of your car you may need a 12mm hex key from snap on. The new oil plugs with the bolt holes for the alternator bracket install with an adjustable wrench.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2676.jpg

The lug on the alternator needs to be spun around so that it and the wire do not hit the oil pan. There is a spot on the back of the lug which aligns it in the factory orientation, this is ground off and the lug is put back on facing towards the other plug. The shaft it bolts to is splined so it will stay in the orientation which you install it. The alternator is then hung from the swing arm on the bracket and the bracket is hung from the new mounting holes. The bolt holes very exactly match the bolt pattern and the size of the bolts so it takes a second person to hold the weight of the alternator while bolting up the bracket. After bolting up the bracket the alternator is swung up to see where it hits the corner of the oil pan. A small dent must be put in the corner of the pan to allow the alternator to swing up all the way. This is easily done on the car with a smack of a hammer.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2685.jpg
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2686.jpg
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2690.jpg


electrical connectors for 740 cc injectors installed. the wires are released from the old electrical connectors using a jewelers screw driver and slid into the new electrical connectors.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2700.jpg

we then removed the airhose and throttle body
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2701.jpg

disconnected the fuel lines from the fuel rails and fuel hoses. unbolted the manifold
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2704.jpg


lifted the manifold off disconnecting vacuum hoses and electrical connectors in the process.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2711.jpg

installed the new ac compressor bracket
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2716.jpg


Installed fuel rails with NISMO 740cc injectors and new fuel lines. Connected vacuum lines for vapor canister and egr. The egr is actually blocked off in the manifold and isn't necessary but the hope is that if it is left connected the sensor will not throw a check engine light since it is blocked off after the temperature sensor. The connection on the t off the block for the pcv system is blocked off. I will include the propper size bolt with the kit to screw into the T to block it off. We didn't have it so we epoxied it shut. The rest of the pcv lines are left connected to their original locations.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2717.jpg
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2718.jpg
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2726.jpg

The throttle body adaptor, throttle body, iac manifold, bypass system, and airhose are assembled onto the supercharger outside of the car and then dropped onto the engine as a unit to which the rest of the hosing and electrical connectors can be easily attached before installing the manifold.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2739.jpg
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2744.jpg

The manifold is then test fitted into place in order to get the supercharger lined up correctly before putting sealant onto the flanges. It is then removed again, sealant is put on the flanges, and the manifold is installed. The belt and throttle body cover can then be installed.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2746.jpg
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2755.jpg

A small extension with a bent connector at the end must be bolted to the end of the main alternator wires and then covered in electrical tape. The second electrical connector reaches without any extensions.
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2758.jpg
http://www.ecutune.com/posts/run1/DSC_2762.jpg

Originally Posted by mikecg

The "more power than the driveline can handle" isnt an exceptable enough estimate for you? There is no denigning that it makes power. I have done an accidentle nuetral drop when it was stock without causing any damage. This was just a flick to between 1/2 and 2/3's throttle. I think it's at least double the stock numbers. I do have the pre-modd dyno numbers if your interested in those. I believe they were a lowest pull of 171hp and a highest of 187hp.

No it's not enough. So you broke a diff, big deal. You can break a diff with a 1.8l. If this was a brand new tranny that was built properly, and you broke the diff in that amount of time, then yes I'd say it was enough of an estimate. But an old tranny, no, not a good judgment. Just take the car to the dyno sometime. Or buy dynamic dyno/mr.dyno/etc.

Anyway, cool write up.

[Duckie]

Regardless, once my set is sent to me I will be dynoing it. My car is stock and in absolutely perfect running condition so I believe my car will be a perfect canidate for showing power gains. I do believe though that adding a good exaust system with this setup will probably provide for 20+ hp but that will be the next mod after the kit is installed.