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  #1  
Old 11-01-2005, 09:02 PM
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sperry sperry is offline
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Tranny Resistor Replacement: The affordable way!

Okay, so I just replaced my tranny resistor for a total cost of $1.61.

Then dwd1985 sent me his resistor for repair, so I decided to document the procedure.

1st, here's the resistor...



Remove the two bolts that hold it in with a 10mm socket.



Then use a pair of pliars to bend the tabs back and remove the resistor from the bracket.





You can see that dwd's resistor is pretty damn hammered. When I put a meter to it, I got a nice fat open connection!



Here's the old resistor next to it's 25W 15Ohm replacement.





The next step is to salvage the OEM plug, cutting it as close to the resistor as possible, then stripping the wires.

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Last edited by sperry; 04-18-2007 at 01:22 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2005, 09:03 PM
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sperry sperry is offline
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Then we solder some new wires to it. I use more wire than totaly necessary for two reasons. One, if this should have to be re-repaired, there will be enough wire already for the job, and two, it means I can use shrink-wrap instead of electrical tape over the connections.





Then we cut and strip the new wire to match the length of the resistor and the bracket.



Then solder it up, and cover the joints w/ shrink tubing.



Toss it back in the bracket.



Then fold the tabs down to hold it. Note that I bend the end open and use it to anchor the resistor to the forward-most tabs that are bent down a little bit further than they used to be. The new resistor is a bit smaller than the old one, but this seems to hold it well.



Now were all set to reinstall in the car... or in this case, back into the mail for dwd1985! Remember to use a little silicone grease to protect the connector from corrosion!

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Last edited by sperry; 04-18-2007 at 01:22 PM.
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2005, 09:11 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Great How-To. I will put it into the How-To Docs for you.
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2005, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ensteele
Great How-To. I will put it into the How-To Docs for you.
Woot-dizzle!
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  #5  
Old 11-01-2005, 09:43 PM
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SSSVX SSSVX is offline
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Good job!

Has he got it yet? Does he notice any different in shifting? Much smoother?
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  #6  
Old 11-01-2005, 09:51 PM
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Excellent write up!!
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2005, 10:22 PM
dwd1985 dwd1985 is offline
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I havent gotten it yet, he just did it today. But sperry did his already, and he says he loves it with the 15 Ohm resister. And trust me, when I saw a transmission code problem, and thought I was going to have to drop my valve body to replace duty solenoid A, I wasnt thrilled. But then sperry became innovative, and came up with this awesome, really really cheap way to fix it.
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  #8  
Old 11-01-2005, 10:45 PM
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I did some editing and put it in the How-To Docs here.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2005, 11:45 AM
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sperry sperry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ensteele
I did some editing and put it in the How-To Docs here.
Cool, the editing makes it much more "how-to" in style.

As far as the shifting, with the 15 Ohm resistor, the car feels better than it ever did. I've only had my car for a little over a year, so my OEM resistor probably wasn't working 100% when I got it.

After my radiator sprung a leak and sprayed the engine bay, I think the resistor finally corroded and gave up entirely, because I started seeing the power light flash at startup and pulled a code 11 (duty solenoid A). (My alternator died too 'cause of that pin-hole radiator leak! )

The 15 Ohm replacement seems to be just right for firm yet smooth shifts, and is right at the firmest acceptable range according to the OEM range of 7.5 to 15 Ohms. I figure if I want firmer shifts, I can go with an adjustable shift kit.
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  #10  
Old 11-02-2005, 05:00 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Way to go.

Yes that was easier and cheaper than replacing it with the Subaru part.
I do have some concerns about the way the wires run. As you know that resistor can get very hot, and the way the plastic covered wires are between the resistor and the body, could melt the insulation to cause a short.

It may be better to run the wires around the outside of the resistor. It won't look as neat as the way you have done it but it woun't melt the insulation either. Just a suggestion.

Harvey.
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  #11  
Old 11-02-2005, 05:22 PM
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Do you have a link to the manufacturer of this replacement or a part number?

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  #12  
Old 11-02-2005, 10:00 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess
Do you have a link to the manufacturer of this replacement or a part number?

.
When you get that part number, I can include that as well.
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[COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430
1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739
1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831
1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680
1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229
1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car)
1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913
1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164
1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176
1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215
1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525
1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624
1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961
1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855
1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872
1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097
2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420

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  #13  
Old 11-02-2005, 10:27 PM
dwd1985 dwd1985 is offline
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What should also be included should be some information about how a transmission code 11 doesnt neccesarily mean that its a bad duty solenoid A, but possibly this resister. I bet that will help alot of people out if they check on their resisters before they have their solenoids replaced.
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  #14  
Old 11-02-2005, 10:32 PM
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sperry sperry is offline
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The heat of the resistor is a good point. 'Course I'm using a 25W resistor than a 20W (which is the OEM rating), so it should run a little cooler than stock. I'm not aware of how hot the stock resistor actually gets. I'll keep an eye on my resistor's wiring and see how it holds up. A wiring re-route may be a good idea, just so you don't have to re-do this job every two years.

The resistor I used is an NTE Electronics 25W015, which is 25 Watt and 15 Ohm as the part number implies. See the specs here: http://www.nteinc.com/resistor_web/pdf/twentyfive.pdf

I just went to my local electronics shop and grabbed it off the rack. Essentially, any 20 Watt or greater resistor of your preferred Ohm rating should work. And of course, something with both leads on one side of the resistor would work better, since you wouldn't need all that wire, and the potential heat issue mentioned above.

NTE also makes a version of their resistors w/ an aluminum heat sink. It's smaller overall and the same wattage, so it might be easier to wire. Plus the aluminum resistors are 1% tollerance rather than 5%, not that I think that matters in this application. They're also like $6 or $7 instead of $1.50.
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  #15  
Old 11-10-2005, 07:39 AM
Pearlywhites1992
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Just for the record, I bought a resistor from Subaruparts.com
and paid $65 including shipping. Car shifts like a dream again.
Interestingly enough, I too had a small radiator hose leak that
was spraying everywhere, just before I got my code too!
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