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  #1  
Old 08-23-2004, 06:21 PM
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michael michael is offline
What Potholes ???
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wheel studs

Does anybody have a diagram of how to remove wheel studs from the front hub. I can't seem to get my rotor to come off and don't want to break anything.
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92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration
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  #2  
Old 08-23-2004, 06:38 PM
SVXer95 SVXer95 is offline
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If you are having trouble reboving the rotor I have found a nice little trick that works very well.

Take one of the bolts that holds the radiator bracket in place. Put this bolt into the threaded hole on the face of the rotor and tighten until the rotor pops off. If this doesn't work, you may have issues. I believe the bolts are 10mm.
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  #3  
Old 08-23-2004, 07:19 PM
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If that works, you're the man!
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"The things you own end up owning you. It's only after you lose everything that you're free to do anything."

92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration
96 Legacy Outback (206k) 5-speed 2.2 Lightweight Crank Pulley, Group N Trans & Motor Mounts SOLD
Wanted: Steering Wheel
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  #4  
Old 08-28-2004, 07:31 PM
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Well I tried the radiator bracket screws and stripped them along with the rotor threads. I ended up using a can of PB blaster and a pry bar between the back of the rotor and a nearby nut, spray...wait...rock backwards and repeat. Now how do I get the studs out without damaging them? I'm assuming they all have to come out. The hex bolts for the tone ring are all rusted and round out as I try to loosen them, I can hammer on the stripped stud, but what about the good ones? Can I heat them up without damaging the bearings or ABS sensor. Hammering on them makes me cringe knowing how sensitive SVX wheel bearings are.
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"The things you own end up owning you. It's only after you lose everything that you're free to do anything."

92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration
96 Legacy Outback (206k) 5-speed 2.2 Lightweight Crank Pulley, Group N Trans & Motor Mounts SOLD
Wanted: Steering Wheel
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  #5  
Old 08-30-2004, 09:28 AM
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Earthworm Earthworm is offline
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Have you ever had problems removing rotors before?
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  #6  
Old 08-30-2004, 04:51 PM
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Not this much usually I just have to bump it with my palm. But now I can't get the stud out I never had them out, do I have to take all of them out to just change the one. I don't want to heat them up if it is going to hurt the bearing. How hard can/do I have to wack them?
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"The things you own end up owning you. It's only after you lose everything that you're free to do anything."

92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration
96 Legacy Outback (206k) 5-speed 2.2 Lightweight Crank Pulley, Group N Trans & Motor Mounts SOLD
Wanted: Steering Wheel
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  #7  
Old 08-30-2004, 07:25 PM
SVXer95 SVXer95 is offline
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Sorry the bolt trick didn't work. Why are you removing the studs? Usually they take quite a beating to remove if they haven't already fallen out.

Install the new one with a nut and impact.
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  #8  
Old 08-30-2004, 07:35 PM
lanciat lanciat is offline
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One trick that I've used to remove and reinstall studs is to "double nut" them: take two nuts and screw them both on the end of the stud (you won't be able to use the stock lug nuts for this, but will have to purchase some aftermarket nuts at your local auto emporium).

Now, tighten the two nuts against one another until they lock together (I mean tight!). Then use an open end wrench on the innermost nut to remove the stud.

To reinstall the studs after removal, reverse the process (i.e., use an open end wrench on the outermost nut to install the stud). You may want to mark the base of each stud with a little white-out before removing so that you reinstall to the correct depth.

Hope this helps.

Joe Fillip
'95 L AWD ("The Wayback Machine")
Swarthmore, PA
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  #9  
Old 08-30-2004, 09:01 PM
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I needed new radiator bolts anyway, I lost one a while back and had to use an ugly rusted one. Good news though I just finished putting my new antenna mast in and hadn't driven it since I had the rotor off. I realized that what I thought were warped rotors were just seated wrong. That's why they were so hard to get off! I got so used to them vibrating it felt like something was wrong when I hit the brakes and it didn't shake! I'm changing the stud because the guy who put my transmission back in after replacing the speedo gear stripped it lanciat, the SVX studs kind of press in they aren't threaded they have teeth to prevent them from spinning, I quess I just have to put aftermarket nuts on them and wack the $#!t out of 'em. I just hope I dont hurt the bearings. If somebody knows wether or not they all have to come out just to change one, please speak up. thanx
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"The things you own end up owning you. It's only after you lose everything that you're free to do anything."

92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration
96 Legacy Outback (206k) 5-speed 2.2 Lightweight Crank Pulley, Group N Trans & Motor Mounts SOLD
Wanted: Steering Wheel
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  #10  
Old 10-04-2011, 02:37 AM
svx1999 svx1999 is offline
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Re: wheel studs

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