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  #31  
Old 07-07-2004, 09:05 PM
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wire cutting?

Quote:
Originally posted by UberRoo
snip*

Sounds to me that if you don't hear anything, your solenoid isn't working. It's probably jammed. Unless you're not pulling the codes correctly, it seems probable that you have a mechanical problem with the valve body. Somebody mentioned that they had a problem that seemed to be a valve getting jammed shut by hydraulic pressure. When the engines starts, the solenoid is activated and the valve it controls is exposed to hydraulic pressure. If it's not activated when the hydraulic pressure is generated for the first time, it may not jam. (I realize this is not consistent with the noise test.) Perhaps if you cut the wire that controls the solenoid, it may suddenly begin functioning if it un-jams itself. This is kind of a long shot, but it's a place to begin.

You can also tap into the wiring harness and check for continuity of the solenoid, but if you have no codes, it's probably good. Doesn't hurt to check though.

snip*

UberRoo,
How would I "cut the wire"? I thought the wire for Solenoid C was actually inside the transfer case. Would flushing the trans possibly "unstick" the solenoid?
-Bill
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  #32  
Old 07-07-2004, 09:56 PM
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Bill,

UberRoo posted the below pic in a different thread talking about cutting the Solenoid C wire. He mentioned the following instructions:

"Under the dash is the TCU. If you look at the picture, there are three plugs going into the TCU. The upper plug (highlighted in red) is the one that goes to the transmission. The green wire with a red stripe controls solenoid C. All you need to do is cut that wire and splice in a switch, which will normally be left ON, but turned OFF to engage the rear wheels manually."

Full thread can be viewed here: 50/50 Torque Split thread

-Chike
Attached Images
File Type: jpg solenoid c wire.jpg (82.1 KB, 74 views)
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  #33  
Old 07-07-2004, 11:49 PM
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Re: wire cutting?

If there are no TCU codes, you should get a steadily flashing power light. If it just stays on, it's not pulling the codes. No codes should flash about once a second, and do it indefinitely.

Quote:
Originally posted by SVXRide
UberRoo,
How would I "cut the wire"? I thought the wire for Solenoid C was actually inside the transfer case. Would flushing the trans possibly "unstick" the solenoid?
-Bill
Flushing the transmission might un-stick the solenoid. Cutting the wire (which Chiketkd nicely reposted here) is a few steps away. (The wire is inside the transfer case...at least some of it, but it comes out, runs along the top of the transmission, under the throttle body, towards the brake booster, through the firewall, down towards the hood release lever, and into the TCU.)

Until you get the TCU to give up the codes, or at least the all-clear steady flashing power light, forget anything else. There's a good chance this is an electrical problem. I would speculate that even a jammed solenoid might still make noise, though it may be very quiet. From the sound of things, if you're not getting a 'no codes' code, it's probably electrical.

Pulling the speed sensor is quite easy, so go ahead and do that if you get the chance. Just don't break your back worrying about anything else until you're sure you got the codes. If you just can't get the stupid thing to give up it's secrets, you can still do a continuity test. This is done by unplugging the connector (the red one in the picture in Chiketkd's last post) and measuring between the green wire with a red stripe and ground. It should be about 13 to 15 ohms.

Does anyone know of any quirks for why pulling codes may be tricky? The very first two times I did it, I got a solid light too. On the third try, it worked, and has ever since. (I swear I did exactly the same thing all three times!) I've pulled the ECU codes successfully and without any trouble, but have been unable to reset them. Anybody know of any strange bugs when doing these things?
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  #34  
Old 07-08-2004, 10:18 AM
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Chike/UberRoo,
Thanks to both of you for your responses. I was starting to worry about the solid POWER light until I read that you (UberRoo) had the same thing happen to you....
I'll keep trying to pull the codes....
-Bill
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  #35  
Old 07-08-2004, 10:38 AM
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Re: Re: wire cutting?

Quote:
Originally posted by UberRoo
Does anyone know of any quirks for why pulling codes may be tricky?
Nope. I've only had to ask the TCU to 'tell Daddy what's wrong' once or twice, and it just worked. I can't imagine why it would be inconsistent.

Maybe that's why we now have OBD-II.
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  #36  
Old 07-12-2004, 08:53 PM
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Update? Any luck in locating the problem Bill?

-Chike
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  #37  
Old 07-13-2004, 08:46 AM
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Chike,
Put things on hold when the connector wouldn't "easily" come out of the TCU. Got ready for the Sunday AutoX at FedEx and then had my radiator crack when I got there ( ). New radiator was shipped on Monday, so I'm hoping to have everything back in running order this weekend.
-Bill (ah, the joys of SVX ownership!)
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  #38  
Old 07-13-2004, 09:03 AM
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Maybe you could have Rufus troubleshoot the problem for you on 7/23...

Sorry to hear about the cracked radiator.

-Chike
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  #39  
Old 10-29-2007, 05:20 AM
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Back from Dead

Seems like I am not alone eh SVXRide?
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...highlight=dyno

It seems like the only thing you concluded was that your car did not have any problems. I am currently in the same boat. Thanks for saving me some headaches.

Also, it was raining the day I did the dyno test. WOT in the rain and the car bolted forward without any issues. So I know AWD is working.
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Last edited by Myxalplyx; 10-29-2007 at 05:25 AM.
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  #40  
Old 10-29-2007, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myxalplyx View Post
Seems like I am not alone eh SVXRide?
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...highlight=dyno

It seems like the only thing you concluded was that your car did not have any problems. I am currently in the same boat. Thanks for saving me some headaches.

Also, it was raining the day I did the dyno test. WOT in the rain and the car bolted forward without any issues. So I know AWD is working.
Kevin,
My problem did turn out to be a bad solenoid C. Replaced it up at OT's and everything was good
-Bill
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  #41  
Old 10-29-2007, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXRide View Post
Kevin,
My problem did turn out to be a bad solenoid C. Replaced it up at OT's and everything was good
-Bill
Damn! Thanks for the heads-up. Do you think the dyno session is what actually took out your solenoid C or was it wear and tear that finally decided to rear its ugly head during your dyno session?
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  #42  
Old 10-29-2007, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myxalplyx View Post
Damn! Thanks for the heads-up. Do you think the dyno session is what actually took out your solenoid C or was it wear and tear that finally decided to rear its ugly head during your dyno session?
Kevin,
Probably wear and tear.
-Bill
p.s. We're going to start calling you "Dr. Frankenstein" if you keep bringing all these "dead" thread back to life
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