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  #1  
Old 09-05-2005, 01:51 PM
troth
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the alternator r&r how-to is not correct

I'm not an expert on this, but his picture has the socket wrench on the the mount for the tensioner it should be on the tensioner pulley bolt; thats all that needs to be loosened along with the tensioner pulley bolt! I'll submit a picture if everybody agrees with me on this!!
tr

Last edited by troth; 09-05-2005 at 03:21 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-05-2005, 03:32 PM
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Post your picture and explain. I would like to see what you mean exactly before I will agree with you. Just need some clarification. Thanks.
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2005, 03:49 PM
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I'm not sure what FAQ you're referring to.

The, "Wayne's Alternator Replacement" and "Alternator Replacement" PDF files, which are almost identical are the only ones I found.


1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove the plastic shroud over the alternator.
3. Loosen the nut on the left side pulley.
4. Loosen the tension bolt and remove the belt. (Counter clockwise is loosening the tension)
5. Buy and new Alternator belt
6. Disconnect the connection at the top left of the alternator
7. Unplug the tan plug in the back left side of the alternator. (there is a little clip that holds it in place.)
8. Remove both bolts that hold alternator on
9. One on left side and one on the right. (Those are the only 2 holding it in place
10. Grab a hold of the alternator and rotate up and down until it comes loose.


I think I'd put step 5 (buy a new belt) as the first step, and step 6 (disconnect the plug) would be right after removing the plastic shroud over the alternator. I'm not sure why there's a step 8 and 9. They seem to be the same step.

I don't have any idea what the wrench is supposed to be attached to, and the crank pulley is also missing, which could be confusing because it's not neccesary to remove it.

See the attachment.
Attached Files
File Type: zip SVX_Alternator_Rebuild.zip (787.1 KB, 172 views)
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2005, 04:15 PM
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The attachment you posted is perfect except that you should always disconnect the negative cable. Reset the radio presets and clock, you don't want any chace of a short. The alarm does not lose its programming for at least 24 hours with the battery disconnected.

Doug
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2005, 06:33 PM
troth
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ok this was the link that I was going from

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/14322.pdf

and it shows a wrench on the pulley mount not the tensioner pulley bolt!!

now my question is where did this come from because it is correct?

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...achmentid=5995


thanks
tr
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2005, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohrds
The attachment you posted is perfect except that you should always disconnect the negative cable.
Yeah, yeah, I know, I know. Safety first and all that. There's a fusable link in the charging cable. I had the stereo cranked when I was working and I didn't finish putting the alternator back together for several days. I'm a repeat offender, but I'm very proficient at getting away with it. In the worst case scenario, wrenches are replaceable and burns heal. Anybody who steps near the ignition switch while I'm working gets a swift and severe beating - which is actually kind of a perk the way I see it.
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  #7  
Old 09-06-2005, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberRoo
Yeah, yeah, I know, I know. Safety first and all that. There's a fusable link in the charging cable. I had the stereo cranked when I was working and I didn't finish putting the alternator back together for several days. I'm a repeat offender, but I'm very proficient at getting away with it. In the worst case scenario, wrenches are replaceable and burns heal. Anybody who steps near the ignition switch while I'm working gets a swift and severe beating - which is actually kind of a perk the way I see it.
Geniouses think alike, eh? (minus my spelling)
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2005, 11:45 AM
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Troth,
I just replaced my alternator and the directions on the "how to" is correct. But as you have mentioned, the wrench in the picture is on the wrong bolt. I believe it just happened to be there when the picture was taken. If you notice the arrows, they do point to the right bolts that need to be loosened. Hope this helps clear up any misunderstanding.
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2005, 01:26 PM
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I think this picture was taken for something else and was used for this too.
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  #10  
Old 01-15-2006, 01:45 AM
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this is sort of old, but whats the purpose of loosening the locking nut on the tensioner pulley first anyways?

What happens if you dont do that in the process ?
I recently replaced my PS belt, and didnt loosen that
nut at all

BUT, less then 50 miles later that nut and pulley came loose and popped off.

Coincidense or something I did ?
yeah, I know I should know this but I dont
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  #11  
Old 01-15-2006, 07:22 AM
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You need to loosen the pulley bolt before you use the tension bolt because this allows the pulley to ride easily on the guide. In other words, the tension bolt allows you to adjust the belt until the pulley bolt is tightened to set that position in place. (or vise-a-versa). Hope this is clear for you.
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2006, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorsport-SVX
this is sort of old, but whats the purpose of loosening the locking nut on the tensioner pulley first anyways?

What happens if you dont do that in the process ?
I recently replaced my PS belt, and didnt loosen that
nut at all

BUT, less then 50 miles later that nut and pulley came loose and popped off.

Coincidense or something I did ?
yeah, I know I should know this but I dont
If you were able to do it without loosening the locking nut, it was too loose and that is why it came loose. It should be tight enough that you could not do the job with out first loosening it.
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1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913
1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164
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1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215
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1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408
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