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  #1  
Old 07-05-2002, 01:55 PM
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Zeppelin Zeppelin is offline
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Brake bleeding...

I'm planning on removing the calipers and painting them when I replace my rotors. How does the brake bleeding system work with the SVX? I'd like to find out how to do this before I rip everything apart! Thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2002, 02:14 PM
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Re: Brake bleeding...

Zep, You can find Subaru tech instructions at http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysbrak.html They are kinda complex.
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  #3  
Old 07-07-2002, 06:03 AM
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svx_commuter svx_commuter is offline
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I made a pressurized bleeder. Got an old cap from a slavage yard, a few used heavy duty plastic OJ bottles, some clear hose and brass fittings.

Used the first bottle after the bycycle pump to hold air. Cut out an old bike tube air valve and glued it into the bottle cap.

Went from there to a second bottle that held a quart of BrakeFluid. The air enters the top of this bottle and then forces
the fluid up another hose from the bottom of the bottle.

Then went to the cap. It was from a Legacy.

I put the car up on stands and flushed out each line until clean fluid came out.

It's a good idea to this every year.
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Old 07-08-2002, 06:18 AM
MoreIBNR MoreIBNR is offline
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John - Some more info, please. How did you get the hose to stay in the old cap? How much pressure? How long does it take to do it all? Do you have pictures of the set up? I can kind-of visualize it, but I am not sure. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally posted by svx_commuter
I made a pressurized bleeder. Got an old cap from a slavage yard, a few used heavy duty plastic OJ bottles, some clear hose and brass fittings.

Used the first bottle after the bycycle pump to hold air. Cut out an old bike tube air valve and glued it into the bottle cap.

Went from there to a second bottle that held a quart of BrakeFluid. The air enters the top of this bottle and then forces
the fluid up another hose from the bottom of the bottle.

Then went to the cap. It was from a Legacy.

I put the car up on stands and flushed out each line until clean fluid came out.

It's a good idea to this every year.
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  #5  
Old 07-08-2002, 04:31 PM
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svx_commuter svx_commuter is offline
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Hi Gary,

I could take some pictures and that would be a good idea. Come on over sometime and I'll show you. I used about 15 psi and the hoses are just pushed up against some rubber washers on the barbed fittings so these leak a little.

I did all three of my cars. Oh it only takes about 3 minutes per wheels and really pushes out the old fluid.

John
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2002, 06:22 PM
MoreIBNR MoreIBNR is offline
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Sounds great. I'll have to see when I have the "free" time. You can demonstrate how it works on my car ;-))

I am beginning to think I really need a new wheel bearing. I am debating whether I should take it in somewhere or just buy a new housing, bearing and seals, pack the bearing, have it pressed into the new housing, and just replace the whole unit. Probably wouldn't cost any more than having someone else replace just the bearing. What do you think?

Quote:
Originally posted by svx_commuter
Hi Gary,

I could take some pictures and that would be a good idea. Come on over sometime and I'll show you. I used about 15 psi and the hoses are just pushed up against some rubber washers on the barbed fittings so these leak a little.

I did all three of my cars. Oh it only takes about 3 minutes per wheels and really pushes out the old fluid.

John
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2002, 07:15 PM
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svx_commuter svx_commuter is offline
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I am still on no wheel bearings after 60k miles. I think it is all in the installation.

I do not know about the cost. What do all the parts cost? Heck, you probably got all the part numbers on a prior bill. A wheel alignment would also be needed. Sometimes the bolt is hard to get out of the hub. We'll need some of that 'Break Free".
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Old 07-08-2002, 10:21 PM
MoreIBNR MoreIBNR is offline
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From SubaruParts.com - Housing - 135, bearing - 61.40, oil seals (2) - 14.32 (both), snap ring (probably not needed) 5.30. Total - 210.

I am not sure that a wheel alignment would be necessary as we are talking the rear and the only adjustment is toe, which shouldn't be disturbed.

Then there was the mechanic down in the Cherry Hill area who quoted a pretty good price (I have to go back through the posts to find the price he quoted).

I just seems easiest to spring for the housing. Then I can get the whole thing assembled before dismantling the car and just remove and replace, without worrying about whether the housing is still good, getting to the shop by a certain time to get the bearing pressed in, etc.

Quote:
Originally posted by svx_commuter
I am still on no wheel bearings after 60k miles. I think it is all in the installation.

I do not know about the cost. What do all the parts cost? Heck, you probably got all the part numbers on a prior bill. A wheel alignment would also be needed. Sometimes the bolt is hard to get out of the hub. We'll need some of that 'Break Free".
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