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Old 02-16-2005, 12:12 AM
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Electrophil Electrophil is offline
Which manual is "that" in??
 
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Outrageous Electrical Problems

I've had the "warm up" problem for about 6 months. Where just as the car is warming up, it stutters and wants to stall, then runs great after warm up.

But! As it was happening last week, the fusible link blew. I replace the fusible link, and now have major problems. The car idles like a dream, but runs badly to the point of undriveable. Specifically, it misses abruptly, but the car does not die. It just jerks as it misses.

Both radiator fans will also run continuously, regardless of ignition being on or off, or even having a key in the ignition.

Fuse 6 (Front wipers) will also not accept a fuse. It blows it on contact. Once again, with no key in the ignition and the wiper switch off.

There are no engine codes. I get the solid 1/4 sec continuous flashing. The TCU is reporting solenoids A and B.

Have I horribly raped my entire electrical system, or is this a simple oversight thing.
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Old 02-16-2005, 04:46 AM
LarryIII LarryIII is offline
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Put your post on the Yahoo SVX site and ask John Shotsky directly about it. He knows alot about the SVX elctrical system.

Good Luck.
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2005, 09:19 AM
red95svx
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Numerous electrical problems all occuring at the same time are usually the result of a poor ground. Check with Shotsky though to be sure.




Dave
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:38 AM
kuoh kuoh is offline
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Poor grounds can cause odd behavior, but generally don't blow fuses or fusible links. It sounds like there is one or more shorts in some of the power paths. Since the wiper fuse blows immediately, it would be a good place to start. Disconnect the wiper motor to verify that it isn't the culprit, then start tracing wiring.

The engine could be running poorly due erratic power being supplied to the ignition system or ECU. Same possibility with the TCU. Start pulling fuses on non-ciritcal systems like lights, AC, radio, windows, locks, sunroof, etc, until you have just the bare essentials necessary for the car to run and see if there is any difference. Oh and don't forget to check the alternator for damage after locating and repairing the culprits.

KuoH
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Old 02-16-2005, 10:35 AM
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Electrophil Electrophil is offline
Which manual is "that" in??
 
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Thanks for all the great inputs so far!! What a quick response. I love this site!

I think John is still on vacation. I'm going to wait a couple of days for him.

The battery at ignition off is 12.83V, the battery at running/idle is 12.22V All fuses tested and operation with the exception of fuse 6 (F wipers) Does this sound normal?
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:31 AM
kuoh kuoh is offline
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The voltages sound fine, but that's not really going to help much at this point. The fact that your fans run even without the key in the ignition is another sign that something is still amiss. There is the remote possibility that there may be a problem with the ignition switch, but that wouldn't necessarily explain the other problems.

If something is getting power when it isn't supposed to, then you're going to have to trace backwards to find out why. I wouldn't be surprised if one of the wires in a bundle overheated, burning off it's insulation as well as that of some neighboring wires, causing weird power path problems. That might be why the fusible link was blown in the first place.

KuoH

Quote:
Originally posted by Electrophil
The battery at ignition off is 12.83V, the battery at running/idle is 12.22V All fuses tested and operation with the exception of fuse 6 (F wipers) Does this sound normal?
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