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  #1  
Old 02-13-2008, 08:47 AM
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reviving my SVX

Ok, i have recently broke down and bought a house, so now my SVX is finally in a garage where I can work on her some and bring her back to life. The problem is i'm not sure where to start so I thought i'd ask for some suggestions.

Here's the situation. A year and a half ago (roughly) I broke down and got a new car and parked the SVX. At the time, the SVX was having serious oil leaks from the rear main seal which spilled out onto the exhaust making a lot of smoke i didn't like. So, i was going to get another car to drive while i got the things on the SVX fixed. Well, that didn't exactly happen according to plan. Things came up, and I didn't have the money so I let her sit.

Now, the battery is of course dead. I had to have her towed to the new house where I haven't done anything to her yet. When I parked her, she had just a couple gallons of gas in her. So, is there anything i need to take care of before i slap a new battery in her and try to start her up?

I thought it might be a good idea to remove the oil and the drainpan. Clean that out and put new oil in her, but aside from that, i can't think of anything that might help.

I'm just concerned that if i didn't take the proper precautions, that i might do more damage than good by starting her up. Any suggestions?

~Ray
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  #2  
Old 02-13-2008, 09:19 AM
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Change the oil to some good organic (no synthetic). Change the filter... Unplug the igniter and all 6 injectors.... Turn the engine over with the starter for about 5-10 seconds to get some of that new oil pumping through the engine. Then reconnect the igniter and all injectors and fire it up... Might also wanna put 5 gallons on new gas in it

Tom
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  #3  
Old 02-13-2008, 10:35 AM
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Hey Tom! Good to hear from you again. Thats a good idea. Would just 10-15 seconds of free turning it over be enough to get some oil back through things though? Not that i want to do it too long, i just didn't know if that'd really be good enough.

Also, why just organic and not synthetic? I didn't know that would make a difference. Thanks for the info

~Ray
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'93 LS-L named "Samantha Victoria Xavier"...Sam for short.
All new and improved custom built engine with forged internals, lowered compression, upgraded cams and a stage III supercharger. AMR Engineering struts, Custom exhaust --All 3 Subaru cats removed, and replaced with 2 high flow mustang cats-- Cross-drilled & Slotted rotors, steel braided brake lines, bypassed stock Tranny cooler replaced with aftermarket B&M super-cooler, and a K&N drop in air filter.
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  #4  
Old 02-13-2008, 11:19 AM
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Hey Ray, long time no see.

I reckon Tom's plan is good. Fully synth tends to dissolve deposits around your seals and increase oil leaks, unless you have fully synth in it since new.

Seeing as you are mentioning leaks there is nothing wrong with using organic. 10 to 15 seconds should be long enough too. When you reconnect the injectors and the ignitor, you will probably have to crank for a little while before she fires anyway.

Joe
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:50 AM
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Not a fan of synthetic oil??

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
Change the oil to some good organic (no synthetic). Change the filter... Unplug the igniter and all 6 injectors.... Turn the engine over with the starter for about 5-10 seconds to get some of that new oil pumping through the engine. Then reconnect the igniter and all injectors and fire it up... Might also wanna put 5 gallons on new gas in it

Tom
Any information about the reason will be greatly appreciated, Tom. Want to do the best for my baby!
Thanks,
Keith
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:52 AM
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Oh, thanks Joe.

hadn't got to your post yet. are there other considerations like engine parts wear?!!
Thanks,
Keith
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  #7  
Old 02-13-2008, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwren View Post
hadn't got to your post yet. are there other considerations like engine parts wear?!!
Thanks,
Keith
If the car was parked away OK in general the engine parts will not be any more worn than when you last used it.

Things that can go wrong is the fuel in the tank tends to break down into jelly-like consistency over many hard winters. It is normal when putting a classic car away for a while to fill the tank with fuel, in order to avoid condensation from the tank walls polluting the fuel. Adding 5 galls to what is there before starting is good common sense.

You might also get surface rust on the engine internals due to condensation. To defeat this Tom's plan above is good. Without letting the engine fire up, cranking will pump oil up to the head without over-revving and coat the moving parts. This will soften and dissolve the surface rust by and large. When you DO start it then, the moving parts will be lubed and you will avoid dry surface friction and wear.

Joe
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Old 02-13-2008, 01:28 PM
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Hey Joe! Good to see you again...you know what i mean

Thanks for the tips and explanation. Very good advice. I've heard of gasoline getting nasty before and I wanted to avoid that so my original plan was to go out and let her run once in a while, but that um...sorta just never happened. I did the first month or so pretty regularly. Drove her around the parking lot, etc. but after that I kinda stopped. I'm kicking myself now.

Oh well, at least she's not in too bad a shape. It could be FAR worse i think. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it goes :P

~Ray
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'93 LS-L named "Samantha Victoria Xavier"...Sam for short.
All new and improved custom built engine with forged internals, lowered compression, upgraded cams and a stage III supercharger. AMR Engineering struts, Custom exhaust --All 3 Subaru cats removed, and replaced with 2 high flow mustang cats-- Cross-drilled & Slotted rotors, steel braided brake lines, bypassed stock Tranny cooler replaced with aftermarket B&M super-cooler, and a K&N drop in air filter.
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  #9  
Old 02-13-2008, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxistentialist View Post
If the car was parked away OK in general the engine parts will not be any more worn than when you last used it.

Things that can go wrong is the fuel in the tank tends to break down into jelly-like consistency over many hard winters. It is normal when putting a classic car away for a while to fill the tank with fuel, in order to avoid condensation from the tank walls polluting the fuel. Adding 5 galls to what is there before starting is good common sense.

You might also get surface rust on the engine internals due to condensation. To defeat this Tom's plan above is good. Without letting the engine fire up, cranking will pump oil up to the head without over-revving and coat the moving parts. This will soften and dissolve the surface rust by and large. When you DO start it then, the moving parts will be lubed and you will avoid dry surface friction and wear.

Joe
Thanks Joe, didn't have the breathe to be that long winded

Tom
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Old 02-13-2008, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
Thanks Joe, didn't have the breathe to be that long winded

Tom
Hey, I'll take that as a compliment Tom.

I think
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  #11  
Old 02-13-2008, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halistan View Post
Thanks for the tips and explanation. Very good advice. I've heard of gasoline getting nasty before and I wanted to avoid that so my original plan was to go out and let her run once in a while, but that um...sorta just never happened. I did the first month or so pretty regularly. Drove her around the parking lot, etc. but after that I kinda stopped. I'm kicking myself now.

Oh well, at least she's not in too bad a shape. It could be FAR worse i think. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it goes :P

~Ray
She should be good to go Ray.

I was given to understand you don't have condensation in Texas most of the time anyways.

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  #12  
Old 02-13-2008, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxistentialist View Post
Hey, I'll take that as a compliment Tom.

I think
absolutely... I just did not have the time to post it right then because I was working on something... sorry

Tom
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2008, 10:29 AM
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clarification of inquire for Joe please

Quote:
Originally Posted by svxistentialist View Post
If the car was parked away OK in general the engine parts will not be any more worn than when you last used it.
Joe
My question was referring to parts wear difference while driving the car with synthetic compared to non-synthetic oil, not while in hibernation.

Thanks,
Keith
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2008, 10:46 AM
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Make sure the fresh fuel you put in is high octane, as what's in there sure won't be. Once you get it up & running your 1st stop should be a gas station for a full tank of fesh fuel.

Before you try cranking it on the starter, you may want to turn it over with a socket on the crankshaft. Just to be certain it's not stuck. I doubt it would be, but on the off chance it is,a good soaking with WD-40 in the cylinders, through the spark plug openings, will help unstick it.
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  #15  
Old 02-14-2008, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwren View Post
My question was referring to parts wear difference while driving the car with synthetic compared to non-synthetic oil, not while in hibernation.

Thanks,
Keith
Synthetic viscosity does not break down as quickly as organics. Over time and also with heat. Organics are better for breaking an engine in and for taking one out of hibernation as they tend to bond to fresh metals better than synthetics

Tom
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