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  #31  
Old 11-10-2007, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
Trevor the photos I posted this morning had a partial open photo. There were 4 photos 0 v was at rest position and then the next three had higher voltage and with each the valve opened a bit more. One of these images shows a intermediate position as you request and if you check the voltage metter you can see it is less then the voltage for the fully open valve image.
The pot size is not that big a issues as they only are used to check if my theory worked. They are 10K.
Sorry Tony I am unable to discern the variations in opening you describe from the four photos. I will try to get hold of a sample valve to examine.

I can not accept that you are able to use a dual pot. of 10k resistance (i.e. one normally used in an audio amplifier) as variable voltage control device, given the probable current involved. Mr. Ohm would back me up in this regard. It might be possible that it could be acting as a sort of switch, rather than as a voltage divider.
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  #32  
Old 11-10-2007, 04:37 PM
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Trevor is it correct to say that if one side of the pot is neg and the other Pos 12v that I can get from 0v to 12v on the centre tap depending how and what direction I turn the pot, and I do understand the voltage is not regulated.
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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  #33  
Old 11-10-2007, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
Trevor is it correct to say that if one side of the pot is neg and the other Pos 12v that I can get from 0v to 12v on the centre tap depending how and what direction I turn the pot, and I do understand the voltage is not regulated.
Yes, you would have a voltage divider. However the adjustable voltage is entirely dependant on the current drain taken from the centre tap.

As a solenoid is involved, the current will be substantial, so that the potentiometer (In this instance more correctly a rheostat.), should be in the region of say less than 100 ohms and be wire wound, so as to be capable of passing the required current.

The dual pot. you have, is often typically used as a volume control at the front end of a stereo amplifier, where only very low current is involved in the two audio inputs being controlled.
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  #34  
Old 11-10-2007, 08:46 PM
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but it would work just rough.
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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  #35  
Old 11-10-2007, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
but it would work just rough.
Hardly and it would likely burn out when set in a position to slightly reduce the voltage, i.e. when set at only few ohms resistance from the supply end.
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  #36  
Old 11-12-2007, 04:30 AM
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Tony,

I have now acquired a BPACSV and have been able to examine and test it and so ascertain exactly how it operates. Unfortunately I had been completely lead astray by your statements which confirmed that the valve was spring loaded towards a half open rest position, as follows:-

“What I may have missed explaining is the at rest position is spring loaded in both close & open.”
--- Confusing, but I presumed you to mean as above.

“The bench test was done by applying the centre wire to the positive and connect the negative to one of the other, using a Lab variable power supply as the voltage was increased the power in the electro mangenet would over take the spring force.”

In actual fact there is no spring or spring loading involved. The rotary solenoid is held in a rest position by means of a permanent magnet. The two coil windings when energised generate alternative opposing magnetic forces, such that the valve can be opened or closed to a variable degree, in a manner not possible if a spring was involved.

I am now able to agree with you that the valve can be opened and closed in a variable manner, the degree of movement depending on the applied voltage. The confusion is regrettable as a lot of time has been wasted.

What I still can not fathom is that the manual shows the “open” circuit as being shielded and the close circuit with no shielding. A straight variable voltage signal does not call for any form of shielding. This could constitute drafting error and in fact the shielding may not in fact exist. I would very much like to check the “open” signal with a scope.

Each winding measures 9 ohms and full travel requires 8 volts. Half travel 4 volts and the control as near as could be judged linear. Current at full travel was measured at 0.84 Amps i.e. close to theory.

Experiment shows that a 50 ohm wire wound potentiometer, in series with either winding, can provide smooth control with an 8 volt power source. 100 ohms if the supply is 12 volts. Hobby electronic stores usually do not stock ratings in excess of 3 watts, which could suffice for test purposes but will run hot and burn out in extended use. To be, a safe 10 watt pot. would be required for a permanent installation. The ratings given to pots, is a sort of average figure, so that testing would be required.

A single wire wound pot. of say 200 ohms arranged as voltage divider would work, but I do not have one on hand so have not tried this idea. An even higher rating may be required in this instance.


You have stated:-

“I then disconnected the wire that closed the valve and put in a resister of the same resistance to con the ECU. It didn't work the ECU was smarter then I gave it credit for.”

What value resistor did you use and how did you connect it I wonder.
Everything indicates that if you disconnected the “close” control wire and connected this wire to a 10 ohm 10 watt wire wound resistor connected to the common positive wire, (N.B. not ground) all should be OK. Two 5 ohm 5 watt in series could be used, if you can not get a 10 watt.
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As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit!

Last edited by Trevor; 11-12-2007 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Typo
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  #37  
Old 11-12-2007, 12:21 PM
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Trevor the exact coding on the resister is 5W10RJ and I installed it from the closed voltage wire to the centre. As i origanlly had it black to centre I may have done somting wrong in the change over.
Tony
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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  #38  
Old 11-12-2007, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dessertrunner View Post
Trevor the exact coding on the resister is 5W10RJ and I installed it from the closed voltage wire to the centre. As i origanlly had it black to centre I may have done somting wrong in the change over.
Tony
The 10 ohm resistor you used had only a 5 watt rating, but it should have been OK on a temporary basis, even if it got hot. However I wonder if it actually failed and became an open circuit? You should check this as another possibility. Have another go at it and let us know what happens.
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  #39  
Old 11-27-2007, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
The 10 ohm resistor you used had only a 5 watt rating, but it should have been OK on a temporary basis, even if it got hot. However I wonder if it actually failed and became an open circuit? You should check this as another possibility. Have another go at it and let us know what happens.
Tony,

Have you tried this idea yet? There are several others who have the problem and who will be very interested in the outcome.
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  #40  
Old 11-27-2007, 11:57 PM
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Sorry Trevor haven't yet, I have been a bit snowed will see if I can give it a go this weekend. Would be good to stop the thing shuting down the air to the engine the way it does.
Tony
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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  #41  
Old 12-12-2007, 10:14 PM
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Trevor I haven't done this yet as the car is no longer stalling. What is interesting is I had a bad cam angle sensor and the car would often drop low on idle. Now I replaced it this does not happen any more. My guess is that at low revs the ECU was not able to handle the poor singal from the ECU so was shutting the engine.
Given my past experiance (both Love & Hate) for the SVX engine I am about to be proven wrong in the next couple of days.
Tony
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX.
1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC)
1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car.
1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation.
1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track.
1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine.
1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough.
Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR.
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