I don't know. Here's the symptoms

[blue thunder]

I just adjusted my parking brake so that pretty much eliminates this as a problem. The car rattles when I make a turn at lower speeds. I just test drove it doing some turns at lower speeds and could hear the wheels slipping it seems in and out like AWD was hesitating. Very strange. Never had this in the seven years owning this car. I already had a Subaru trans specialist say it could be the differential acting up. I felt the rattle coming from the rear end today. Could this be trans related. Any ideas what I might have going on would be appreciated. Thanks.

Mike

[Manarius]

Does the car rattle or shake?

These are slow sharp turns, right?

Put in the FWD fuse and see if it goes away. If it does, you know it's rear diff related. If not, you might have torque bind.

[blue thunder]

Thanks Manarius for the reply. At Subaru my mechanic did swap the fuse to FWD and the shakin continued. He then changed all the fluids. Front and rear differentials and transmission and this stopped most of the shaking. Now the problem is full blown and backing up the car I have to give it more gas to get it to move than normal. Is torque bind a major financial issue or reasonable. I'm gonna change the fuse to FWD one more time and drive it to be sure. Thanks.


Mike:

[Suby Fan]

do we have transmission codes? (the power light blinking when the car starts)

[Manarius]

Originally Posted by blue thunder

Thanks Manarius for the reply. At Subaru my mechanic did swap the fuse to FWD and the shakin continued. He then changed all the fluids. Front and rear differentials and transmission and this stopped most of the shaking. Now the problem is full blown and backing up the car I have to give it more gas to get it to move than normal. Is torque bind a major financial issue or reasonable. I'm gonna change the fuse to FWD one more time and drive it to be sure. Thanks.

Well, it seems to me that you may have a front differential going out. That thing you described as "taking more gas" than normal to back up is a tell-tale sign of fried front diff. Tom knows a lot more about this than I do, he would probably be able to diagnose your problem far more accurately.

Torque bind is about an $800 job. However, you could probably find a 4.44 or 4.11 geared 4EAT and matching rear diff for less money.

This is all assuming that that you no blinking lights at Engine startup like Suby Fan said to check for.

Also, I would advise strongly against driving the car in FWD mode for more than a few minutes. The AWD trannies are not meant to be "held" to FWD by electronics for more than a little while.

[blue thunder]

I wasn't able to read the codes based on the instructions I found thru a link on here. #4 turn ignition switch off. #5 move selector to D and turn manual switch on You can't move selector out of park with the ignition switch off. Are these instructions wrong or am I doing something wrong. Either way it needs professional evaluation and repair. Take care.


Mike

[Suby Fan]

you use the shift lock button its the one to the left of the shift lever

[Earthworm]

I replied to your other thread before reading this one. I would still YOU tried the FWD fuse.

[nipper]

You did the first thing that i usually suggest and that is flush the tranny. Did the car ever have unmatched tires or an under inflated tire on it? This can kill the clutch pack. The awd clutchpack is designed to be engaged and allow slipping to give you differential action around curves. The clutch pack can not tolerate this long distances, will over heat and fuse together. Next you have a full time 4wd car (thats bad) as it has no center diff. The front axle and rear axles turn at differnt speeds , and since the clutch pack wont slip, you have torque bind. There is one possabilty left. You may have a fried duty c solenoid, but that should trigger the tranny temp light. That usually happens all of a sudden, so i think your clutch pack is fried.

nipper

[blue thunder]

Thanks for the reply. I have had two different shops say the rear differential is the culprit. So I am trying to locate one ASAP. They're may be other issues once this is replaced according to a reputable transmission shop here. In drive the car will actually come to a stop on its own without applying the brake. I'll update as work is done. Thanks again.

Mike

[blue thunder]

Finally getting back to this thread. I had two different shops tell me my rear diffential was the problem. I had a used unit delivered and put in and the problem didn't change. Turning the wheel at slower speeds a bad and may be getting worse reverberation and shaking. Also when backing up I can hear the wheels making a slipping noise and not wanting to move unless I step on the gas more. More resistance with the wheel turned as opposed to straightened out. This happens in both front wheel and all wheel drive. My mechanic did pull the trans code after this used diff. didn't change the problem. #24 solenoid c. One hour away at a different Subaru shop they may be better at diagnosing this problem. What should I do to get a definate diagnosis and get this fixed. Thanks for the replies so far.


Mike

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by blue thunder

Finally getting back to this thread. I had two different shops tell me my rear diffential was the problem. I had a used unit delivered and put in and the problem didn't change. Turning the wheel at slower speeds a bad and may be getting worse reverberation and shaking. Also when backing up I can hear the wheels making a slipping noise and not wanting to move unless I step on the gas more. More resistance with the wheel turned as opposed to straightened out. This happens in both front wheel and all wheel drive. My mechanic did pull the trans code after this used diff. didn't change the problem. #24 solenoid c. One hour away at a different Subaru shop they may be better at diagnosing this problem. What should I do to get a definate diagnosis and get this fixed. Thanks for the replies so far.


Mike

Hi Mike it really looks like you have a transfer clutch problem, the Code points to it. The transfer clutch is fully applied. This is either the C solenoid is not working to release the clutch, or the transfer valve is jammed, in the on position. Doesn't matter which it is, as they will both be fixed by fitting a new C solenoid/transfer valve assemble.

Harvey.

[blue thunder]

Hi Harvey thanks for the good advice. I'm mostly uneducated with this subject but I have learned some in the last few days. Is the C solenoid and transfer valve two separate parts or one. I already paid $300.00 for the used rear differential that apparently I didn't need so I want to be sure I order the right part or parts. By all means not questioning you're knowledge I just want to be sure this will solve this pain in the neck problem. Thanks again.


Mike

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by blue thunder

Hi Harvey thanks for the good advice. I'm mostly uneducated with this subject but I have learned some in the last few days. Is the C solenoid and transfer valve two separate parts or one. I already paid $300.00 for the used rear differential that apparently I didn't need so I want to be sure I order the right part or parts. By all means not questioning you're knowledge I just want to be sure this will solve this pain in the neck problem. Thanks again.


Mike

Yes Mike,I am pretty sure that is the trouble. The C solenoid/transfer valve come together as one part. It could be the clutch plates stuck together, but as they are all in the rear of the transmission housing, they will have no trouble replacing the bits. Not have to remove the trans, just the rear housing. About a 300/400 $ job.

If you want to check to see, just fit the fuse, and see if you can spin the front wheels on wet grass, if only the front spin, then I am wrong, but I think you will find that they all will spin, to show that the transfer clutch won't disengage.

Harvey.

[blue thunder]

Yeah, I had read the clutch packs could possibly be stuck together so if all these parts are in the same area I'm going to give my mechanic this info and order the part ASAP. I went to the front wheel drive mode a few weeks back and nothing changed. I'll post again when work the work is done. Thanks.


Mike