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  #1  
Old 03-18-2006, 07:52 PM
trieck1232 trieck1232 is offline
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Question Rear wheel bearing how to...

I've been searching wor a half hour on the site and found alot of info but I was wondering...Is there a pdf or somthing on here, on how to change the rear wheel bearings? I'm sure I could figure it out but since it is a known problem im guessing that sombody has made one? Mabie?


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  #2  
Old 03-18-2006, 08:09 PM
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1. Take wheel off
2. Take off brake caliber and disc (ABS disc is around here too)
3. Disconnect E-Brake Cable (you will have to take apart the e-brake; helps to know what you're doing)
4. Take off Main axle nut
5. Remove axle from hub
6. Remove bolts holding hub to strut/control arm
7. Remove hub
8. Press old bearing out
9. Lube up new bearing with grease
10. Press bearing into hub
11. Repeat steps 1-7 in reverse order in the opposite direction

You will need a lift (preferably) and an air wrench that can put on 250lb/ft torque.
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  #3  
Old 03-18-2006, 08:18 PM
trieck1232 trieck1232 is offline
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So just like most any wheel bearings, I read somthing about changing the grease what is your recommendation? Do you need a bearing press?
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  #4  
Old 03-18-2006, 08:44 PM
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Either a shop press can be used (requires removing the hub) or a hub tamer can be used. Have to be careful when pressing the bearings in with a shop press. If not done correctly, the new bearings can be damaged.

Remove all the packing grease in the new bearings. Don't just wipe it off. Use a solvent to get all the grease out. Make sure to use a solvent that doesn't not damage the plastic bearing cage. Repack the bearings with a top quality wheel bearing grease. Amsoil wheel bearing grease has great specs.

Its a good idea to presoak all the nuts being removed with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.
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  #5  
Old 03-18-2006, 08:46 PM
trieck1232 trieck1232 is offline
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ok thanks a bunch!! Should go easy!
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2006, 02:29 PM
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Take some pictures and we can do a How-To using them.
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2006, 04:51 PM
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If I get around to mine this weekend I could do that. We'll have to see.
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  #8  
Old 03-20-2006, 07:13 PM
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I will be doing mine this weekend also, and will take pics. Ive been trying to find instructions for a while now. lots of threads on wheel bearings, but none that explain the procedure. So today i took my car to the dealership, and the guy refused to replace the grease with new bearing grease, even though i brought new grease with me. so i left and will be doing it myself, like i had originally planned.

Also, torque specs for the axle nuts are 123-152 lbs.

any other torque specs we should know?
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  #9  
Old 03-20-2006, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanmerz
I will be doing mine this weekend also, and will take pics. Ive been trying to find instructions for a while now. lots of threads on wheel bearings, but none that explain the procedure. So today i took my car to the dealership, and the guy refused to replace the grease with new bearing grease, even though i brought new grease with me. so i left and will be doing it myself, like i had originally planned.

Also, torque specs for the axle nuts are 123-152 lbs.

any other torque specs we should know?

I recently replaced all four bearing. The fronts weren't bad, stock bearings in a '92. The rears had been replaced by the previous owner and were a mess. The first thing I noticed when I pulled them apart was that the shipping grease was still in the bearings. No surprise why they failed so quickly.

Torque specs. You'll need all the specs for the rear suspension, especially the lateral link-to-knuckle (outer)...heck, here's a link to the specs which are at the end of the PDF file:

http://reaper450128.homeftp.net/pdfs...ION___REAR.PDF

This one has a nice cross-section view of the rear hub assembly:

http://reaper450128.homeftp.net/pdfs...FTS___REAR.PDF
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  #10  
Old 04-07-2006, 10:47 AM
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What solvent is good for cleaning the bearings? All the ones I've found are not recommended for plastics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbtoloczko
Either a shop press can be used (requires removing the hub) or a hub tamer can be used. Have to be careful when pressing the bearings in with a shop press. If not done correctly, the new bearings can be damaged.

Remove all the packing grease in the new bearings. Don't just wipe it off. Use a solvent to get all the grease out. Make sure to use a solvent that doesn't not damage the plastic bearing cage. Repack the bearings with a top quality wheel bearing grease. Amsoil wheel bearing grease has great specs.

Its a good idea to presoak all the nuts being removed with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.
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  #11  
Old 04-07-2006, 10:52 AM
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CRC QD Electric Parts cleaner should be fine. That's what I used. I used brake clean on the races.
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  #12  
Old 04-07-2006, 11:51 AM
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It sounds like you disassembled it first if you used different stuff for different sections. Did you? If so, how do you take it apart?
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I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me
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  #13  
Old 04-07-2006, 12:17 PM
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Sounds like you haven't looked at the bearing yet. Its just a typical stacked roller bearing. Its not pressed together in any way, so it will fall apart in your hands.
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  #14  
Old 04-07-2006, 02:10 PM
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No, I've got it sitting right here beside me and it's not falling apart. BUT...is that because of the plastic piece on the inner race? Is that some sort of "lock" to keep it from falling apart?

I'm not totally clear on your post...are you saying I can't separate it because it doesn't fall apart, or are you saying it should be very easy to separate and therefore self-explanatory as to how I should clean the individual parts?
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Time for my very own long list of mods:
92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler

I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me
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  #15  
Old 04-07-2006, 02:47 PM
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The plastic piece is for shipping to hold the bearing together.

Once you pull that out the bearing separates into a "master" outer race housing and two inner race's and two bearing packs. As stated earlier, clean off the shipping grease and use some high temp grease.

One other thing to add in the step-by-step is the brake anti lock sensor removal.
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