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#1
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Baffling Electrical Issue
I have a 1992 Subaru SVX with no issues really besides this electrical
problem I have been facing. Whenever I turn on the car everything is fine, the lights on the dash are completely normal. After about 30secs-2mins of idle or throttling the whole dash lights come on, everything lights up and while having a volt meter on the terminals I will no longer get a charge from the alternator and the car is running on whatever remaining juice is in the battery until stalling. I've replaced the alternator 4+ times, and come to the conclusion that its not the alternator, but either something "turning it off" or a short that is overdrawing the charge of the alternator in the wiring. I can't really test the shorts, considering the large amount of wires it would be endless. Anyone know something I don't? I can't for the life of me figure this issue out...after the car sits for a little bit and cools back down the car will start up, briefly charge again then recur with the same problem. The only other thing I just thought of is the radiator fan is unplugged since its siezed up and I need to replace it, but I don't think this would have any correlation to the electrical problem since its unplugged and not drawing any power. I'm going insane from this PLEASE HELP!! A few other little mentions, the A/C isn't cold so I unplugged the cables to the A/C as part of an elimination process, just as I did the radiator fan...the belt on the alternator is also brand new and tightened very firm. The alternator is not remanufactured and is brand new obviously. I read up on as much as time allowed and also decided today to try the fuse/relay involved with the power seatbelts....my drivers seatbelt is not operational and maybe that could be grounding something...I will try that today, but everything else stated prior has/is being done and to no avail. Someone please show me how smart you are!! |
#2
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One other thing..
relating to this issue, does anyone know of a link or thread where I can see a complete diagram of the electrical system or fuse/relay system or both? I don't have my car manual and I feel like Helen Keller trying to figure out these fuses.
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Matt - Akron, OH And then what??? |
#3
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Update
I pulled a lot of fuses in the main fuse box, as many that would allow me to start the vehicle and nothing is killing the lights still. JUST to be safe since I am in the warrenty period I called Advanced and they are going to have a brand new replacement Alternator in for me by Saturday so I can again rule out another bad alternator...Car problems can eat sh*t
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Matt - Akron, OH And then what??? |
#4
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Welcome to the site and I hope you get your electrical problems resolved!
Check your engine codes. My car did something similar when my coolant temperature sensor failed. That sensor causes all sorts of weird things to happen when it fails. Is your car ever hard to start first thing in the morning? Instructions for checking codes are in the SVXipedia on http://svx-iw.com/
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#5
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Alternator Fault
The symptoms you describe indicate an alternator fault which has been reported here many times. However the exact cause and reason, as far as I am aware, has not been previously analysed and described.
The dash indicator light circuits incorporate blocking diodes to eliminate a sneak circuit which would otherwise exist. In an event involving faults within the alternator rectifier network, alternating current is induced on line. The result is pulses of reverse voltage which pass the blocking diodes and flash the indicator lights accordingly.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#6
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I would suggest checking the voltage at the alternator when you first start the car. You can also check the signal on the two wires that also connect to the alternator.
After the problem return check all of the above and see what is different. Also see if Advanced can bench test the alternator too. Steve P.S. I might have a wiring schematic, I need to check.
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92 SVX AWD 130,000 w/ rebuilt SVX 4.11 97 Audi A4 1.8T (Daily Driver) 03 Ford Expedition(hers) SVXepidia SVX information warehouse Are you in? My Old Locker A 4.11 Founding Father "Tranny #6" I really need a manual Reading IX [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Ya I was there
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#7
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Here is the tech sheet from my Advance alternator.
It has a lifetime warranty and cost about $188.00. The 14456 is a good part number. Steve
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92 SVX AWD 130,000 w/ rebuilt SVX 4.11 97 Audi A4 1.8T (Daily Driver) 03 Ford Expedition(hers) SVXepidia SVX information warehouse Are you in? My Old Locker A 4.11 Founding Father "Tranny #6" I really need a manual Reading IX [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Ya I was there
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#8
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Alternator Output
It is very helpful to have the above specs posted as they are typical. Note that the ripple voltage specified, indicates a positive only ripple in the DC output and does not indicate an AC component.
Using the AC range on a multimeter may possibly provide a simple means of detecting an AC component in a suspect alternator, provided it is run at reasonable RPM when the cycle rate will be shortened. If anyone should try this method of testing, it would be interesting and useful to have the results posted.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! Last edited by Trevor; 03-16-2006 at 02:59 PM. Reason: Words added to assist clarity. |
#9
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Ok Updates
Ok here are some more clues I have uncovered today, I had minimal time at work today to do this, but here we go...
The power window on the driver side does not work....I could hear a slight grinding/spinning sound, I think the motor is good but the power window regulator I think? is faulty/siezed up. Second, the seatbelt on the drivers side also doesnt work. Could it be tied to the power window somehow? But it doesn't work and the lights inside come on/off with door ajaring. The voltage when the car fires up cold, is normal flow and drops by -0.1v each few seconds as the car continues to run, obviously faster depending on the electrical stress you put on the car. I can shut the car on/off as many times as I need, obviously until the voltage drops to a unstartable level. This is SO FRIGGIN' STUPID AND COMPLETELY ANNOYING!! AHHH! Anyways, if I immediately turn the car off after the dash panel lights up, it will stay lit up even when the car first starts. You actually have to let some time pass and the car cool down before the dash lights reset and dont come on until a little more idling or driving are done (maybe 2 mins tops) I also order a replacement alternator so I can again, rule out this as an issue and I'll have it on Saturday to drop in shiny and new. (I'm not sure if I'm repeating myself.) Thanks for all your help to date guys, if this get resolved it will be a miracle.
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Matt - Akron, OH And then what??? |
#10
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Quote:
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Matt - Akron, OH And then what??? Last edited by Antigenus; 03-16-2006 at 04:29 PM. |
#11
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I have tried direct wiring the terminals to the alternator with some heavy duty wire to see if that will help, which i still dont think it will. Would pictures or a short video clip of the issue help aid my cause at all? I can do either with very high quality if it could help...im praying this alternator tomorrow fixes this issue, and I'm taking the alternator spec sheet posted above to compare right on the spot. Let me know if anyone has any input.
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Matt - Akron, OH And then what??? |
#12
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if you keep expierenceing voltage drop while the car is running. chances are that you have a short somewhere in the main power system. check all your connections to the engine, the starter etc. also have your battery checked, if your battery has gone bad, this too could be a problem. if the new alternator doesnt fix it, i sugest you do a full electrical diagnostic. check all of your connections vs. positive and ground. check all the fuses and relays in the fuse pannels.
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->Austin<- 1992 Pearlie (Pearl): motorsport exhaust kit (Wife's) 1994 Red FWD (Roxi): Custom X exhaust |
#13
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Grounds
Hello,
Check the grounds! I had a problem the year after I bought mine and replaced the alternator, a few fuses, and a relay. After all that money was spent it turned out it was just the ground from the battery had come loose. I reconnected, and it worked fine for while. Then, I had the issue of replacing several batteries before I replaced the battery terminal connections. Now all is well and the CD player even plays CD's a little bit less selectively. |
#14
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oem alternator, I have replaced at least 4 alternators in a short period of time, then I got a used oem from ebay for 20 bucks, and haven't had any trouble since.
I got the impression from the tech sheet that you have an 80 amp alternator. As I understand it, the oem is 95 amps, and just barely supports the car stock. Skip
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'95 SVX L - Laguna blue 126,000+ miles '89 XT - some sort of sun bleached blue '00 Hyundai Sonata- charcoal gray (hers) |
#15
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Holy electrical hobgoblins!
Experiencing an electrical issue also... not nearly as severe, but still somewhat baffling.
Revved the car up a bit today... as soon as I decellerated and the power light blinked out, the steering, ABS, brake, stop lamp and one other indicator light I can't recall this second (not the CEL) blinked on. Since then, the lights haven't shut off and the CD player randomly loses all power for ten seconds or so every twenty or thirty minutes then turns back on as if nothing was wrong. Don't know if this is related or not, but also since this happened, I can't lock the car from the keyfob if the security system is engaged. If the security system is off though, the keyfob locking works fine. I think the aliens are here. I'm going to check out the belts, fuses, battery and attempt to learn how to pull the engine codes tomorrow when I have some daylight. But tonight... IRISH CAR BOMBS! Happy St. Paddie's Day yall!
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Kevin Crutchfield Neophyte SVXer 92 LS-L Ebony/Lqd. Silver, stock, 88xxx miles, flung into a telephone pole by a drunk a month after buying 92 LS-L midnight black 141xxx miles, WRX FPR, MAF bypass, lightened underdrive pulley, formerly AppstateSVX's |
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