svxphile needs help

[SVXphile]

Originally posted by huck369
The stock pulley is actually 2 parts the inner part that the bolt goes through, and the outer part the belt go on, they are put together with rubber and the rubber can deteriorate and cause the inner and outer parts to become loose from each other, allowing the outer section to come off.

OK....now what I'm seeing makes some sense.

Thanks Huck!

Don

PS I clicked on the Motorsports site and looked at the underdrive pulley. Does it also have this "two part" construction? Are there any disadvantages to using it vs. the original design?

[huck369]

Nope, the underdrive pulley is one peice, so you don't have to worry about it coming apart.
The only real downside to them is that they lower the charging capacity of you alternator, due to it turning slower, but only really effects it at idle.

[svxcess]

Don says his crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer came in today. He asked me what the torque values were, so I got him the info from the service manual, which was 108-123 ft.lbs.

As part of the timing belt replacement, it showed a special hand tool for holding the pulley stationary so that you could loosen the pulley bolt and tighten it to the correct torque. It is called a "crankshaft pulley wrench". It looks like a long breaker bar with a disc on the end with a hole in the center to allow the pulley bolt to protrude through and either 2 or 4 pins which must match up to holes in the pulley to keep it stationary. You slip the tool over the bolt and into the pins and hold it with one hand while you tighten or loosen the bolt with a wrench in the other hand.

Is this tool exclusive to the SVX or something that any shop who does timing belt replacements would have? Is there another "trick" or tip to stabilize this pulley so that he is not trying to turn the crankshaft while loosening or tightening it? (With the free play in a moving pulley, accurate torque specs could not be obtained.)

How would he get a tool like this, if a Suby shop did not do the work?

[Landshark]

Originally posted by svxcess
Don says his crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer came in today. He asked me what the torque values were, so I got him the info from the service manual, which was 108-123 ft.lbs.

As part of the timing belt replacement, it showed a special hand tool for holding the pulley stationary so that you could loosen the pulley bolt and tighten it to the correct torque. It is some sort of "crankshaft pulley wrench". It looks like a long breaker bar with a disc on the end with a hole in the center to allow the pulley bolt to protrude through and either 2 or 4 pins which must match up to holes in the pulley to keep it stationary. You slip the tool over the bolt and into the pins and hold it with one hand while you tighten or loosen the bolt with a wrench in the other hand.

Is this tool exclusive to the SVX or something that any shop who does timing belt replacements would have? Is there another "trick" or tip to stabilize this pulley so that he is not trying to turn the crankshaft while loosening or tightening it? (With the free play in a moving pulley, accurate torque specs could not be obtained.)

How would he get a tool like this, if a Suby shop did not do the work?

i used a breaker bar on the pulley bolt, resting on the alternator(and duct-taped to it so no slippage) and a brief turn of the key to loosen the bolt. (thanks Subafreak!) i tried a strap-wrench and breaker bar, but no dice, so i used the sketchier method.

to tighten, the strap wrench was able to hold the pulley enough for the torque wrench to click at 115 ft-lbs.

[svxcess]

I checked around and it seems that Subaru has specialty tool manufacturers make their tools. The cost of this particular one is $182.83, plus shipping.

Anyway, here is a drawing of the tool being used, as well as a drawing of the tool itself. It seems like something that could be easily fabricated to do what it needs to do. This came out of the 92 SVX Shop Manual. Any other ideas?

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by svxcess
I checked around and it seems that Subaru has specialty tool manufacturers make their tools. The cost of this particular one is $182.83, plus shipping.

Anyway, here is a drawing of the tool being used, as well as a drawing of the tool itself. It seems like something that could be easily fabricated to do what it needs to do. This came out of the 92 SVX Shop Manual. Any other ideas?

Didn't John McKenna (svxcommuter) fabricate some kind of tool (Besides the famed Frankenbleeder). If it wasn't for this purpose, he could probably fabricate one.

[Mr. Pockets]

I bet any one of us cold go to Menard's and pick up ten dollars worth of parts to make something similar. Two hundred bucks, my ass...

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by Mr. Pockets
Two hundred bucks, my ass...

My, we're being testy these days.

[Bobb]

Originally posted by Ron Mummert



It's about right if you can convince Jean that it's the perfect little stocking stuffer for the SVXaholic.

Ron (ruminating).

Hi Ron, Lets see, ruminating, does that mean you have four stomachs and give milk? Of course the best part is regurgitation and chewing your cud. Oh wine steward, what would you suggest to go with my cud. Thunderbird, I have a nice '92 that would go very nicely with cud. Take care, BOBB

[SVXphile]

Thanks for all the help gang....especially John ( I got your messages).

In the immortal words of the Midas Muffler ad....

"I'll MAKE it fit!"

(Just as soon as we get a thaw around here!!!)

Don

----------------------------

How many West Virginians does it take to change a crankshaft pulley?

Depends on how much beer you bought for the occasion...

[Landshark]

breaker bar - $10-15
strap wrench - $10-15
duct tape - $2

turning the key and letting the EG33 break that bolt loose for you........priceless!

[CDG]

Originally posted by svxcess
Don says his crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer came in today. He asked me what the torque values were, so I got him the info from the service manual, which was 108-123 ft.lbs.

As part of the timing belt replacement, it showed a special hand tool for holding the pulley stationary so that you could loosen the pulley bolt and tighten it to the correct torque. It is called a "crankshaft pulley wrench". It looks like a long breaker bar with a disc on the end with a hole in the center to allow the pulley bolt to protrude through and either 2 or 4 pins which must match up to holes in the pulley to keep it stationary. You slip the tool over the bolt and into the pins and hold it with one hand while you tighten or loosen the bolt with a wrench in the other hand.

Is this tool exclusive to the SVX or something that any shop who does timing belt replacements would have? Is there another "trick" or tip to stabilize this pulley so that he is not trying to turn the crankshaft while loosening or tightening it? (With the free play in a moving pulley, accurate torque specs could not be obtained.)

How would he get a tool like this, if a Suby shop did not do the work?

The best Pulley holder on the market is a filter wrench that wraps a belt around the oil filter and tightens against it, using leverage you are able to untighten even the most difficult oil filters. This same tool works very well for holding the pulley stationary while undoing the bolt, but the belt on the tool must be long enough to go around the pulley, and support the handle with a pipe against the ground or other stationary object. I'f your not familiar with the tool, let me know, but most auto parts places and even tools places have them, they can even be known as large diameter Pipe wrench, that does not scar the surface of the item.

Duh, there it is, a strap wrench, sorry, didn't see all the posts above

[CDG]

Originally posted by Landshark
breaker bar - $10-15
strap wrench - $10-15
duct tape - $2

turning the key and letting the EG33 break that bolt loose for you........priceless!

Keep in mind, letting the EG33 break the bolt free will truly cause it too break, cause this trick helps you TIGHTEN the bolt

I'm not going to tell you why I know this

[Alycone]

The stock pulley is actually 2 parts the inner part that the bolt goes through, and the outer part the belt go on, they are put together with rubber and the rubber can deteriorate and cause the inner and outer parts to become loose from each other, allowing the outer section to come off.

Here's a pic of when that happens:
split pulley

[Landshark]

Originally posted by CDG


Keep in mind, letting the EG33 break the bolt free will truly cause it too break, cause this trick helps you TIGHTEN the bolt

I'm not going to tell you why I know this

use this technique for loosening the bolt ONLY.
a strap wrench was able to hold it enough to apply 115 ft-lbs when TIGHTENING, but it couldn't hold the pulley enough to LOOSEN the nut.

if you try to tighten the bolt by using the engine, well.....you're a knucklehead.