Won't start in Neutral.. ???

James Scott · #1 05-30-2011, 02:40 PM

Ever since I got my nice Tom used/rebuilt AT installed, the shift mechanism wont adjust right. The Inhibitor Switch needs full counterclockwise adjustment (probably needs more) to get outta PARK!

Won't start in NEUTRAL! Sorta partial electrical meltdown.. radio goes off, antenna down, no start, dash lights up.. when I try.. ??

Inhibitor Switch failure?

Where is the harness.. on top of front of tranny? wanna check continuity, esp in NEUTRAL pins 9 and 10..

HELP!

P.S. The shift P-R-D-3-2-1 seems adjusted right.. The relationship between that shift arm and inhibitor switch may be off (but not adjustable past short adj slot, right)?

James Scott · #2 05-30-2011, 07:17 PM

Just checked continuity on the connector which comes from the inhibitor switch which is at the front top of the transmission .. as per the OEM manual..
1) continuity in gear 1 occurs only when shift lever is pulled back (below or behind) the normal position.. That may explain why I have to pull back below gear 1 to engage in low gear (?).
2) continuity in position N was lacking in both sets of indicated continuities.. including the continuity that allows starting.. posts 11+12.
3) All other continuities checked out.
It seems the Inhibited Switch is bad.. and justifies buying a new one.. ~$100.
I will buy a new Inhibitor Switch today for 15% off at subprts.com unless I hear back from one of you to the contrary.. ?
Thanks..

icingdeath88 · #3 05-30-2011, 07:26 PM

You could bypass the NSS by jumping the two fat-ish black wires on that plug that you were checking the continuity of. Not really what you should do, but more of a short-term (I-need-to-be-able-to-drive-to-work-now!) kind of workaround. Just throwing it out there.

James Scott · #4 05-30-2011, 09:19 PM

I understand your idea.. but .. with my luck.. I'd start the car in REVERSE.. and smash into two cars B4 I knew wat happened! Ha!

It will run OK.. . Just wont start in Neutral mainly. It's a problem in the car wash.. where the car is turned off in neutral (and pulled thru the wash) ... then turned on again at the end of the process to drive off. If it won't start in Neutral, then they have to stop the car wash.. in order to start my car in Park! One day that might be a bigger problem.. . CrAsH!

It wud be nice for the shift to work in the normal slot for 1st, but rarely use it..

It wud be nice if I dint hafto push the shift knob to "past" Park to get the key out (rarely does that now tho).. .

Since I didn't hear clear objections here.. I ordered the Inhibitor Switch.

Thanks..

P.S. I forgot to say that during continuity checks.. the DRIVE gave no proper continuity.. ??

Earthworm · #5 05-31-2011, 09:51 AM

There must be enough dead transmissions around where someone would give you one for next to nothing, no?

James Scott · #6 05-31-2011, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earthworm

There must be enough dead transmissions around where someone would give you one for next to nothing, no?

Really GoOd PoInT.. BUT too late. I didn't hear from anyone by last eve.. SO, I ordered from SubaruParts.com sale for $80 instead of ~$100.

Really good point tho.. I shudda asked, Huh?

Thanks..

James Scott · #7 06-03-2011, 02:06 PM

Evidently, SubaruParts.com dint get my order for the Inhibitor Switch (and Center Bearing) during the weekend sale as I thot?? Do you have any Inhibitor Switches from dead AT's that might still be good? Or shud I order new one for $91? (Also, how about center bearing.. they are $170?)

Help?

Thanks..

James Scott · #8 06-03-2011, 05:01 PM

NEVER MIND... SubaruParts.com just called to say they ARE shipping the parts!

Thanks..

James Scott · #9 07-01-2011, 06:31 PM

Its 4+ weeks after I originally ordered those parts, and I finally got Andrew by phone today (after many unanswered emails and phone calls) .. He said they're on the way STILL.. . so now .. maybe will ship Wednesday.. . ??

So.. hold off on the used Inhibitor switches.. . (but don't go too far!).. .

Thanks..

Earthworm · #10 07-04-2011, 09:32 AM

They must be coming on a boat from Japan.

James Scott · #11 07-05-2011, 01:54 PM

Are they trying to pay us back.. for that Doolittle Raiders thing? Hmmm?

James Scott · #12 07-09-2011, 10:42 AM

Whoooooah! I finally got my Inhibitor Switch for the AT (and center bearing for the driveshaft).. BUT they sent a 2-piece (WRONG???) Inh. Sw.!

Part number ordered was supposed to be One-Piece w/harness
31910AA070 (Pt020306)

BUT they sent a (TWO-PIECE) Inhibitor Switch 31918AA000 (Bp001029) with
a 31911AA010 Harness ???

Anybody know anything about this???

Of course, I emailed Andrew.. But, if like before, it cud B Thanksgiving before I get this cleared up..

Thanks..

P.S. I dont even see a part listing in any SVX diagragm for the Inhibitor parts they sent.. ???

James Scott · #13 07-11-2011, 07:51 PM

Never mind.. looks like harness prongs ARE same size! It was the 2 starter prong WIRES.. that are much larger on the stock connector.. OOPS..

longassname · #14 07-12-2011, 11:46 PM

If the nut holding your external shift arm onto the shaft was rusted on it's possible someone bent the detent arm inside of the transmisison while taking off that nut outside of the transmisison.

If this is the case you have to remove the pan, remove the valve body, unbolt the linkage on the inside, drive the pin through the dentent arm, pull the control shaft out, and then do the reverse with a new detent arm.

James Scott · #15 07-13-2011, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by longassname

If the nut holding your external shift arm onto the shaft was rusted on it's possible someone bent the detent arm inside of the transmisison while taking off that nut outside of the transmisison.

If this is the case you have to remove the pan, remove the valve body, unbolt the linkage on the inside, drive the pin through the dentent arm, pull the control shaft out, and then do the reverse with a new detent arm.

I've been thinking about this alot.. I even started a new thread about the specific topic you brought up here yesterday.. out of my long-term frustration! I think that YOUR POINT is about the only explanation for my situation! I can never get it totally adjusted.. cuz the Inhibitor switch wont adjust enough to get N to start!

The only other question I have is.. How can I get four or five of the dash lights to line up.. and be in proper gears? ..AND start in Park? .. BUT NOT START IN NEUTRAL.. and one or two dash lights dont line up??? IT SEEMS LIKE THE ENTIRE SYSTEM, ESPECIALLY LIGHTS AND BOTH START POSITIONS (N & P) SHOULD ALL WORK, IF 2. 3, 4 OR MORE (1, 2, 3, D, N, R, P) LINE UP AND WORK (LIGHTS or START)! [BTW, REVERSE BACKUP LIGHT CIRCUIT ALWAYS SEEMS TO WORK (although I haven't checked it most of the times I've adjusted the linkage?)]

With the New Inhibiter Switch?!

Maybe the bend you suggest (which makes alotta sense!) would still explain this erratic synch (in-line for some, not for others).. I TINK I'LL JUST TAKE THE CABLE OFF THE LEVER .. AND TORQUE THE NUT UNTIL IT BENDS BACK A LITTLE (clockwise)! Then, if it breaks, I'll have to do wat u said, but otherwise I reely dont wanna do all you say.. sounds involved..and may not solve problem cuz what I said here (why is some NOT aligned when some or most IS?).. .

Thanks..

P.S. My thot that the lever was tightened on too counterclockwise (and more sensibly, your idea that the detent arm was bent.. resulting in that too counterclockwise position!) is no doubt in play here.. Cuz the Neutral position alignment check (OEM manual) of the hole in the lever aligning with the dent in the Inhibiter Switch.. DOES NOT ALIGN PROPERLY.. NOT STRAIGHT,, NEEDS MORE COUNTERCLOCKWISE ADJUSTMENT OF THE INH SW, CUZ THE LEVER IS TOO FAR COUNTERCLOCKWISE. HEH! I'VE GOT IT! .. Widen (3/16" to 1/4") the mounting/adjustment slots in the inh sw .. so it can be adjusted!!! .. ???