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  #1  
Old 03-18-2003, 09:30 AM
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Axle Tips

Well I just ordered a set of front axles. Who has any tips/tricks before I get started on the job of replacing them? The passenger side boot is torn and the joint is noisy. The driver's side seems to be fine but I'm changing it just as a precaution. (I don't want it to go bad on the way to Reading)
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  #2  
Old 03-18-2003, 10:13 AM
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Re: Axle Tips

Quote:
Originally posted by Earthworm
Well I just ordered a set of front axles.
Where'd you get 'em from? New or reman?

I'm thinking mine may need a little work in the near future, so this topic's been on my mind.

Can't give you any assistance on the install - sorry.
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  #3  
Old 03-18-2003, 10:45 AM
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I got mine from CV unlimited

I think mine was a reman. It was only about $55 a side for the entire axle!


CV unlimited has a good reputation with the 4wheelin' crowd. My SVX unit is just fine too. Not quite as nice as a Subaru unit. (cheaper looking boots) but no problems in about 10,000 miles.

It isn't a hard job, really. Very straightforward. You'll need a 32mm socket for the axle nut...nothing else fancy tool wise. I think a 3/16th punch for the inner joint's pin would be nice... I removed the single 14 mm bolt from the lower joint to swing the hub clear of the end of the axle. I also removed the sway bar vertical link for some extra room. Take care not to damage the grease seal on the inner bearing. Don't remove or loosen the top strut bolt if you can avoid it. This bolt has a weird shoulder on it to set alignment. If you do choose to touch that top bolt, mark the strut to knuckle casting so you can put everything back in the same place. Keep everything clean, (if the outer boot is blown, there will be extra sticky grease slung all over the place) have a beer and enjoy the quality time in the garage.
Oh, I'm sure the FSM says to use a NEW nut on the end of the axle...I didn't. I eneded up staking the nut in a different place anyway. No big deal.

-Stephen

Last edited by Paxton71; 03-18-2003 at 11:23 AM.
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  #4  
Old 03-18-2003, 11:21 AM
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I had a torn outside boot, and I replaced it. If you do that, you have to do both of them. After doing this, if the CV Joint was bad, I would go with a remanufactured on. I didn't save much money just replacing the boots, so if there is a bad joint (making noise) I would replace it instead of doing it myself. IMHO The "how to" is very good on this. I only had a problem when I didn't do what it told me to do.
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  #5  
Old 03-18-2003, 02:01 PM
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Getting mine from Canadian Tire (up here above the border) for CAN $117 each (about USD $59). They are re-mans.
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Old 03-18-2003, 02:02 PM
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Where's the how-to? I searched but couldn't find it.
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Old 03-20-2003, 10:44 PM
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1. Remove small hub cap and loosen hub bolt-32mm or 1 1/4" works also.

2. Jack up the car and remove the wheel.

3. Go under the car and remove the spring pin(near the diff).

4. Remove two strut/hub assy. bolts.

5. Pull the hub out and down and yank out the CV shaft after it clears the hub.

6. Reverse for install.

Its pretty easy. I did both sides in about an hour the first time.

Stephen
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Old 03-20-2003, 10:46 PM
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Actually, switching 3 and 4 would probably be better.
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  #9  
Old 03-20-2003, 11:23 PM
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Thanks. I seem to recall not having to do anything to the ball joints.
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  #10  
Old 03-20-2003, 11:27 PM
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I realize that everyone has their favorite method but you should be aware that when you remove the two upper knuckle-to-strut bolts that you are disturbing the alignment. You also take a chance of stressing the brake hose as the knuckle flops around.
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Old 03-20-2003, 11:29 PM
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I'll keep that in mind. I'm actually getting my dad (the mechanic) to change them for me but it doesn't hurt to find a shortcut or 2 for him to use.
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  #12  
Old 03-21-2003, 10:50 PM
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Earthworm,

Were the axles from Canadian Tire $117 before or after core? Or do they not want the core back?

They weren't on sale or anything, were they?

VK
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2003, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by vkykam
Earthworm,

Were the axles from Canadian Tire $117 before or after core? Or do they not want the core back?

They weren't on sale or anything, were they?

VK
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They are $217 from Can Tire with a $100 core. I had another source for $217 but only $75 core.
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  #14  
Old 03-25-2003, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Beav
I realize that everyone has their favorite method but you should be aware that when you remove the two upper knuckle-to-strut bolts that you are disturbing the alignment. You also take a chance of stressing the brake hose as the knuckle flops around.
Beav,

I don't have to do this job (yet), but was wondering...are you referring to the trick I learned from you about the 3 bolts on the lower end of the arm? I know this will allow enough movement to pull the axle off the tranny. Does it then give you enough room to get the axle out of the hub?

tia.
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  #15  
Old 03-26-2003, 01:13 AM
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Thats great to hear CT has axles for the SVX, I still have the old one from my $417US new from the dealer replacement. So I'll probably just get a rebuild one to put on the shelf, till I need to do the left side.
Thx Earthworm.
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