Post engine swap troubles - Page 2

Cam · #16 06-02-2011, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

Also, does harbor freight usually carry compression test kits in their actual stores or should I order one online?

I saw one last time I was in the store. I would call ahead and check, but you can probably grab one locally

icingdeath88 · #17 06-02-2011, 07:16 PM

Ok, I'll stop by tomorrow and see what they've got.

Thanks for the help bro.

92 SVX · #18 06-02-2011, 08:47 PM

Hey something I thought of today while I was out and about, valve stem seals can dry from excessive sitting so that would be a place to look, however put seafoam in the oil, run it for a while, I dont like running it as they discribe it can be but do run it and drive it with normal driving and shut off for a few days to a week then change the oil.
You could also put in something specifically designed to reseal seals. it coats the seal and expands it back up again.

Cam · #19 06-02-2011, 08:53 PM

Good speculation.

I had all of mine replaced when I did my engine redone. 180k and my stem seals were pretty toast...

icingdeath88 · #20 06-02-2011, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92 SVX

Hey something I thought of today while I was out and about, valve stem seals can dry from excessive sitting so that would be a place to look, however put seafoam in the oil, run it for a while, I dont like running it as they discribe it can be but do run it and drive it with normal driving and shut off for a few days to a week then change the oil.
You could also put in something specifically designed to reseal seals. it coats the seal and expands it back up again.

Any suggestions for something specific?

Yea, it's smoking too much to drive it without getting pulled over I think. I don't know how often they pull people over for that, but my brother got a ticket when his 240 was burning a massive amount of oil due to a turbo leak as well as running super rich due to no tune.

I'm thinking to try some kind of stop leak stuff as well as a thicker oil and see if that helps.

I know you're usually supposed to be able to replace valve stem seals with the engine in the car but is that doable with an EG33 in the SVX? I'd rather not have to pull the engine again.

92 SVX · #21 06-02-2011, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

Any suggestions for something specific?

Yea, it's smoking too much to drive it without getting pulled over I think. I don't know how often they pull people over for that, but my brother got a ticket when his 240 was burning a massive amount of oil due to a turbo leak as well as running super rich due to no tune.

I'm thinking to try some kind of stop leak stuff as well as a thicker oil and see if that helps.

I know you're usually supposed to be able to replace valve stem seals with the engine in the car but is that doable with an EG33 in the SVX? I'd rather not have to pull the engine again.

That is a great question, I would say anything with the heads is going to be tough.
As to what exactly I do not know for sure I remember marval mystery oil was decent at getting into all places and helping seals expand but you better read the bottle to know for sure.

As to driving it around, try this seafoam says put 1/3 of a can in the oil and drive for about 500 miles, well I would not drive that far in any case but I know seafoam will get in everywhere and help seal so put just about half the can, not quite though, let it idle up to operating temps then slowly rev to 1k and hold for 5 mins after that take it for as long of a drive as you think you can get away with, 1 mile if you can.

shut down til completely cool and repeat.
3 times then change oil. Do not use thicker oil as you could cause bearings to not get enough lube and that would not be good.

Cam · #22 06-02-2011, 09:38 PM

To take the heads off, pull the engine. I won't call pulling the heads impossible without yarding the engine, but it is definitely not worth the trouble. It is also possible that you have exhaust valve problems...

Do you still have your old heads? Did your last engine have any issues that would leave you to believe they were not usable? You could always have the heads from your old engine rebuilt, then install them on the current block.

When I took my heads in, I only needed three new exhaust valves. Everything else was in good order. New stem seals, machining the decks of the heads and faces of valves, and pressure testing was all that was done outside of the cupped exhaust valves.

icingdeath88 · #23 06-02-2011, 10:19 PM

I should have 2 sets of good heads actually. I have another spare motor. The engine that came out of the car had a water/oil headgasket leak (no smoke out of the exhaust or anything) that led to enough water in the oil to blow the motor. I felt some pieces of metal in the oil pan with my finger through the drain plug. So most likely bottom end damage like a spun bearing. Probably no top-end damage.

I guess I should get started pulling some heads to rebuild just in case. Well there goes any mystery to my weekend plans...

Cam · #24 06-02-2011, 10:25 PM

I would still compression test first.

92 SVX · #25 06-03-2011, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

I would still compression test first.

yes save yourself a lot of time money and work.

SURTEESS · #26 06-03-2011, 03:30 AM

Posting number 5 is exactly what it will be (especially if the engine has been sitting for a while, the AACV will be stuck open, letting crank case gases & oil into the exhaust area) - a couple of hours to take out the unit, plug 12v on to connector - make sure that the bi-metalic shutter is working & then return into position.

Beats the hell out of taking the engine or heads off !!!

Conn SVX · #27 06-03-2011, 06:40 AM

There was a way to induce compressed air into the spark plug hole and that would hold the valves shut so you could remove the valve stem keepers and replace the seals. Very risky I thought

pearlm30 · #28 06-03-2011, 11:13 AM

Did the smoke smell like coolant or burning oil?
Have you make sure that the oil level in correct? Also the PCV valve is working properly? Is there anyway you can make a short video for everyone here to see how bad the smoke was?

icingdeath88 · #29 06-03-2011, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Conn SVX

There was a way to induce compressed air into the spark plug hole and that would hold the valves shut so you could remove the valve stem keepers and replace the seals. Very risky I thought

This trick with the rope looked like a way better idea: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/valve_stem/index.html You thread a rope through the spark plug hole with the piston at the bottom, then turn it over to TDC to compress it, so it holds the valves at the top. Still not something I think could be done with an EG33 in the SVX though. Just not enough access from the sides. Still, better than pulling the heads.

The smoke (to me) didn't smell like coolant, it smelled like something burning. Didn't smell like gas. It's light colored, I wouldn't call it white exactly. I'll try and get a video of it later tonight and try the PCV, and AACV and whatever else could allow oil into the intake.

icingdeath88 · #30 06-07-2011, 12:36 AM

Ok, so here's where we're at. I checked the largish vac hose that leads from the AACV to the top of the throttle body; there was no oil whatsoever, so it can't be coming from there. The PCV I wasn't really able to get to. Can I just check the lines that lead to the valve for oil? Or are they normally kind of oily anyway?

I drained the oil I first put in (mobil1 10w30) and put in some non-synth mobil 10w40 high mileage and half a big bottle of lucas stop leak stuff.

Haven't been able to do a compression test yet.

Still burning oil; lots of smoke from the exhaust. In fact, oil will pool in the ends of the exhaust tips.

I drove it today to see how it would act. It doesn't always smoke. The pattern is hard to describe. No smoke if you start it up after sitting for a while, and if you just have it idle, it won't smoke for a long time (we let it go for 45 minutes). If driven very gently, shifting at about 2000 rpms, it won't start to smoke for maybe 5-10 minutes of driving. Once it starts to smoke, it won't stop until it sits again for a little while (even like 30 mins is enough though). If you rev it to like 3000 rpms it will start to smoke right away, even without a load.

Does any of that mean anything to anyone?

Haven't found any evidence of water coming out of the exhaust. Is there any way to tell if there are exhaust gases or oil in the water? Although even if there are, I guess it could be what the previous engine left in the radiator. Hmm...