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  #61  
Old 08-11-2006, 04:14 PM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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That is your best option then. Not many will rebuild them if thet don't have a "replaceable" joint

Tom
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  #62  
Old 08-11-2006, 04:24 PM
nipper nipper is offline
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The shop that did mine said (in NY) that its a common repair for them. A good driveshaft shop can make a shaft from scratch, so its not that hard to do. Its also easy since they have a huge book that tells them dimensions, and they figure it out. Word of warning, these shops arent the speediest at fabrication/repairs. What was great is that the ford uni had a grease fitting, so it will never need replacing, just keep it lubricated.


nipper
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  #63  
Old 08-11-2006, 10:30 PM
redsvx94 redsvx94 is offline
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Thanks for the information. Reading old posts, I was just realizing what Tom mentioned. nipper, this is a great info. Thanks. The yahoo yellow page shows listing under driveshaft, so i will call shops located near by and ask whether they could do what was done on your car. Hopefully they will respond favorably.

By the way, one of the things that I MIGHT want to get done on my SVX in a long term is the 5mt mode. Due to cost, it isn't likely that I could do this any time soon, which is one of the reasons why I want to fix the binding issue but don't want to spend a lot of money. I was wondering, if the binding is due to U-joint of driveshaft, would keep driving with it, damage my rear differential or tranny? Also do I need to replace drive shaft for 5mt? The answer for the 2nd question probably depends on where the 5mt would come from, but I think if I’d get 5mt mode done, I'd want the donor car should be a newer model Subaru with peak engine power not much different from SVX.
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  #64  
Old 08-11-2006, 10:59 PM
nipper nipper is offline
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If it is a driveshaft, the car wuill be unbearable to drive. Eventually the car will vibrate badly and can do all sorts of damage possibly.

nipper
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  #65  
Old 08-11-2006, 11:23 PM
redsvx94 redsvx94 is offline
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You know, actually that is something I don't completely understand. I'm getting vibrations (like that you could mistake it as tires rubbing against something) but only during very tight turns like when parking. I don't have any drivability problem under normal driving. And it has been like that for some time without any noticeable change. On the other hand, according to some posts here in the site, symptoms on driveshaft problem seem to be more prominent under higher speed. Except jpsull's case I quoted below sounded similar to mine.... May be things are different for rear shaft (AKA propeller shaft)?

Last edited by redsvx94; 08-11-2006 at 11:49 PM.
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  #66  
Old 08-12-2006, 12:02 AM
nipper nipper is offline
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ive had both. Usually the driveshaft starts as a vague vibration at highway speed and gets worse with time, and the speed it appears at is lower, untill it actually starts to make a thumping noise. Torque bind is a vibration/jerk/resistance to movement on tight turns at low speeds

Remind me again, what was torque bind ruled out, and if the fwd fuse corrects it its the dreaded TB


nipper
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  #67  
Old 08-12-2006, 03:43 PM
redsvx94 redsvx94 is offline
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nipper, the symptom is of AWD biding. There is no metallic clunk or anything. Please look at my previous posts in this thread for detail. Based on the list of symptoms, some in the sites seem to think that it is more likely the u-joints on the propeller shaft. Do you know what the symptoms would be when propeller shaft is bad, but the front shaft is good?
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  #68  
Old 08-12-2006, 04:00 PM
nipper nipper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsvx94
nipper, the symptom is of AWD biding. There is no metallic clunk or anything. Please look at my previous posts in this thread for detail. Based on the list of symptoms, some in the sites seem to think that it is more likely the u-joints on the propeller shaft. Do you know what the symptoms would be when propeller shaft is bad, but the front shaft is good?
propeller shaft would be typical universal joint prblems. Vigration at high speeds, gradually getting worse, anmd a clunk from the driveline whne chaingin directions. Absolute method is to physically inspect the shaft for play at the joints.

Otherwise its TB, and redsvx thats what it sounds like you have. Cost me 950.00 to fix it on my 1997 OBW, dont know what it costs on a svx.

nipper
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