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  #16  
Old 02-12-2005, 01:11 PM
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wawazat?? wawazat?? is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by TorG0d
So I'm doing a little checklist of things I need to do before the tranny comes down. Here's what I have so far:

1. Exhaust needs to be dropped
2. Crossmembers need to be dropped
3. Axles need to come out
4. Looks like the steering rack needs to come out as well so the front of the tranny doesn't fall on it.

You don't have to remove the steering rack to drop the trans.

Drain the trans fluid. You do need to remove the driveshaft from the car. When you pull it from the trans, it will spill a lot of fluid unless you have drained the fluid first.

Other things to remove/disconnect are:
-Wiring harnesses (should be two)
-Snorkus to throttle body (you'll see why below)
-Flexplate to torque converter bolts (4) accessible from the hole underneath the throttle body on top of the engine as well as below. I typically place a breaker bar with a 22mm socket on the crank bolt, and after I've removed one of the flexplate bolts, rotate the engine via the breaker bar until the next bolt comes around to you for removal.
-Starter plus the other 6 bolts/nuts holding the trans in place. The bottom two fasteners are nuts on threaded studs in the engine block halves. These are a %$@#*&^ to get the transmission off of as it has to slide back about 2 inches to clear the end of the studs.
-Pitch stop mount from underneath the throttle body
-Shifter mechanism from trans (I think....)
-Performance bar (rod underneath the front diff)
-Trans mount to body
-Trans cooler lines

Support the front of the engine before you remove the transmission to keep it from tipping forward, damaging the fans and possible the radiator!

This beast is heavy (230 lbs or so) and is difficult to maneuver. I've done it a couple of times now on a concrete floor with a trans jack. I wouldn't want to try it on a gravel driveway.

Good luck,
Todd
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  #17  
Old 02-16-2005, 09:20 PM
TorG0d
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Thanks for the step-by-step. As of now I don't know when I'll be able to get to this project as I just had some financial diffuculties (again). Right now the car's stuck at work since I thought it was OK to drive as it wanted to work (for 2 days at least).

Wierd thing is that it's not slipping, it just doesn't go when you shift from coast back to first (the tranny doing it on it's own). Makes me wonder if it's some switch or soleniod that's going out (hope hope hope).
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  #18  
Old 03-18-2005, 10:25 PM
TorG0d
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The car has sat for over a month now with no work done on it. I lost my job at the auto parts store and so no longer have that asset to take advantage of. That being said, I do plan to fix it one of these days, but now is not that time. I've decided to undertake a simple engine swap on a '93 tercel to resolve my transportation issues. So yet another SVX off the road indefinately. Sorry.
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  #19  
Old 07-15-2005, 09:21 AM
TorG0d
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It has been a very long time (6+ months) since I last posted here, or even looked at the site. I apologize; I was toying with someone who wanted to buy the car for $1k and not a penny more . . . locally. Anyway, I've decided to fix the car (again) as my burgandy tercal and my mother's pink elantra just don't have the same sex appeal as the SVX, nor do they garner the same amount of respect on the road (God bless my exhaust and that Italian guy).

Anyway . . .

I've bought some plywood to put on the gravel driveway to make dropping the tranny feasable. BTW, I've not touched the car in that time except to wash it, charge the battery, and start it every 2 weeks to keep the engine internals clean.

I'll keep you guys up to date. I mean that.

Jason
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  #20  
Old 07-15-2005, 09:37 AM
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Good luck with your project. I'm really glad that you didn't decide to let it go to some local guy for $1000!
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  #21  
Old 07-24-2005, 12:01 PM
TorG0d
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I have the car supported 2 feet off the ground at all 4 corners by jackstands. I've looked the car over several times, gone through the steps required in my mind countless times, and psyched myself up. Just a couple questions before I start:

1. I was curious to know if the AWD was in fact working on my car, so I put it in gear while off the ground. All 4 tires spin at the same time, thankfully. Problem is that there is a "clunking" coming from the rear end on anything other than constant throttle (i.e. accel, deccel, shifts). Kinda worries me, but it does not happen under normal driving.
2. While off the gound with the wheels spinning, I use the brakes to stop the wheels. Doing this causes some rather disturbing pedal feedback, like very harsh ABS pulsing. Fluid is fine, pads have less than 10k miles on them. (I think this is due to the front brakes recieving more braking force than the rear, thus slowing the front wheels sooner than the rear, thus causing the ABS system to panic). Again, this does not happen under normal driving conditions.

I have more questions and concerns, but I'm going to try to figure out the easy stuff.
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  #22  
Old 07-25-2005, 11:03 AM
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I was forced by circumstances to risk driving the car 2 towns away (about 30 miles roundtrip) in 105 degree weather. I checked all the fluid levels before I left, including the rear diff, and lvls are fine. Tranny fluid is still a little burnt, but a lot better than before I drained it a few times.

I have had this car running in park for an hour or more with no overheating problems. I drive the car 30 miles, tach not going above 3k rpm, and it begins to overheat as I pull into my driveway. Smoke is literally pouring from the transmission. I have an external cooler installed in series stuffed between the A/C radiator and the coolant radiator. This was incredibly hot, much hotter than the coolant radiator. I check the tranny fluid again, and it's several shades darker than before. The car sits and cools for about 6 hours. I start it and have it run at 2k-2500 rpm for more than an hour in park, watching the temp guage like a hawk. Never rose above half.

So . . . I'm trying to wrap my head around this. Obviously the fluid is circulating through the cooler, so that's not the problem. For some reason the clutches are burning up incredibly fast, yet the transmission is not noticibly slipping. I have to put the 5spd swap on hold for a couple weeks until another vehicle becomes available, so I will be driving it. Besides daily tranny fluid changes, any suggestions? I have dropped the pan and there are no metal shavings on the magnet, and the screen filter is still good as new.
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  #23  
Old 07-25-2005, 12:21 PM
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I bet the AWD solenoid/clutch is sticking causing the clunking you're getting with all wheels off the ground. Mine did that as well.
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  #24  
Old 07-25-2005, 12:29 PM
TorG0d
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So open up the center diff and clean it out? Regular diff fluid, or lsd? Any way to rebuild the solenoids? Honestly, I'm aware of what they do, just not how they do it. I imagine it's something like an electrical transistor, only with fluid flow instead of electrons.
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  #25  
Old 07-25-2005, 03:28 PM
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The center diff shares the ATF with the rest of the tranny. If you're going to the trouble of getting in there you're best to replace the AWD clutches as well as the solenoid.
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  #26  
Old 07-25-2005, 06:03 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorG0d
I was forced by circumstances to risk driving the car 2 towns away (about 30 miles roundtrip) in 105 degree weather. I checked all the fluid levels before I left, including the rear diff, and lvls are fine. Tranny fluid is still a little burnt, but a lot better than before I drained it a few times.

I have had this car running in park for an hour or more with no overheating problems. I drive the car 30 miles, tach not going above 3k rpm, and it begins to overheat as I pull into my driveway. Smoke is literally pouring from the transmission. I have an external cooler installed in series stuffed between the A/C radiator and the coolant radiator. This was incredibly hot, much hotter than the coolant radiator. I check the tranny fluid again, and it's several shades darker than before. The car sits and cools for about 6 hours. I start it and have it run at 2k-2500 rpm for more than an hour in park, watching the temp guage like a hawk. Never rose above half.

So . . . I'm trying to wrap my head around this. Obviously the fluid is circulating through the cooler, so that's not the problem. For some reason the clutches are burning up incredibly fast, yet the transmission is not noticibly slipping. I have to put the 5spd swap on hold for a couple weeks until another vehicle becomes available, so I will be driving it. Besides daily tranny fluid changes, any suggestions? I have dropped the pan and there are no metal shavings on the magnet, and the screen filter is still good as new.
The clunking when the car was on the lift, is normal, it is just the backlash in the drive line shunting with no load on it. The brake pulsing is caused by the same thing, car off the ground, not a problem.

The over heating can only be caused by a clutch slipping, more than likely the high clutch, it may have been damaged by a previous slipping episode. I would not worry about the AWD clutch, it is not slipping to cause the heat.

If you want to keep driving it, I would not use 4th gear, just leave the shifter in 3rd.and not too much throttle. This will take some of the load off the high clutch, but I think it will be terminal.

Harvey.
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  #27  
Old 07-26-2005, 09:42 AM
TorG0d
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I was pretty much thinking along the same lines (with the exception of which clutch it probably was). I am forced to drive the car as-is for the next week or 2, hope it lasts that long. I'm glad I can take surface streets all the way to where I need to go.

That being said, I have a friend of a friend who owns a tranny shop, he's been on vacation for awhile, but just got back yesterday. I'll get in touch with him; I'm told he's real good, just busy. I'll keep y'all informed.

Until then, would the transmission resistor mod keep things from running so hot? I acknowledge that all aswers fall into the "most likely" and "use at your own risk" category, and will act accordingly.Thanks for the help.

Last edited by TorG0d; 07-26-2005 at 09:50 AM.
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  #28  
Old 07-26-2005, 05:05 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorG0d
I was pretty much thinking along the same lines (with the exception of which clutch it probably was). I am forced to drive the car as-is for the next week or 2, hope it lasts that long. I'm glad I can take surface streets all the way to where I need to go.

That being said, I have a friend of a friend who owns a tranny shop, he's been on vacation for awhile, but just got back yesterday. I'll get in touch with him; I'm told he's real good, just busy. I'll keep y'all informed.

Until then, would the transmission resistor mod keep things from running so hot? I acknowledge that all aswers fall into the "most likely" and "use at your own risk" category, and will act accordingly.Thanks for the help.
Yes you could disconnect the resistor behind the battery, it will hold the line pressure up, and may prevent the clutch from slipping. but drive it gentel.

Harvey.
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  #29  
Old 07-26-2005, 07:40 PM
AvPPoW AvPPoW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorG0d
I was pretty much thinking along the same lines (with the exception of which clutch it probably was). I am forced to drive the car as-is for the next week or 2, hope it lasts that long. I'm glad I can take surface streets all the way to where I need to go.

That being said, I have a friend of a friend who owns a tranny shop, he's been on vacation for awhile, but just got back yesterday. I'll get in touch with him; I'm told he's real good, just busy. I'll keep y'all informed.

Until then, would the transmission resistor mod keep things from running so hot? I acknowledge that all aswers fall into the "most likely" and "use at your own risk" category, and will act accordingly.Thanks for the help.
I had similar problems, thats why I'm going 5speed. My tranny slipped every once and awhile at very low speeds (under 15mph), but I found out the other day when I dropped the auto that the slipping was probably due to a dryrotted vaccuum line. I had a binding problem that developed into a rattling problem over time. The tranny would rattle when you let off the gas. See my post here. Did you try the FWD fuse? Does your problem still occur?
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  #30  
Old 07-27-2005, 01:41 PM
TorG0d
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As of last night I can not trust the car's reliability with the automatic transmission that is currently installed in it. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Yes, I tried the FWD fuse last night, to no avail. I tried everything I coud reasonably think to do at 1 in the morning.
The tranny started intermittently slipping and "jarring" when it reengaged just before it gave out, at seemingly regular pulses. This is the first time it's done this.

So, yeah, the car's completely down now. Had fun while it lasted.

Ending thread . . . now.
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