Ignition switch pics

[kuoh]

Well I finally got tired of fighting the ignition switch's intermittent start problem and didn't feel like messing with the relay mod to comphensate for the cruise control inhibitor relay issue, so I went ahead and replaced it with a new one. It took a couple of hours, which was longer than I had expected, but not too bad considering I had to mess with the remote start wiring too.

Anyways, here are some pics of the switch assembly and the allen head bolt, as well as the OEM security bolt. I don't recall ordering the security bolts, but they were on the invoice and didn't cost much so I wasn't going to fight it. You can see where the head is designed to twist off at the desired torque and then you have a problem if you ever want to get it off again. For anyone needing to replace or tighten them, I would suggest replacing them with the allen head bolts like I did.

KuoH

[kuoh]

And here is likely the problem. The back plate of the ignition switch is held on in 3 places by the indentions in the casing. In the first picture, there is a good size gap between the brown back plate and the casing, probably because the plastic under the indention is broken. The second pic shows the other side, which is still firmly in place with no gap. The START contact is likely on the side where the plate is loose. I suspect that if I found a way to keep the back plate flush with the casing, the intermittent start problems would go away, but alas I didn't discover it until after installing the new one. Anyways, I hope this helps other members here.

KuoH

[Hocrest]

Thanks, great description and pics. You by chance have the part # for the switch handy?

[kuoh]

I don't know if it's the same part for all years, but this is the one for my 92.

83131PA000

KuoH

[dannmarr]

Can you please give directions on how to install it step by step? Thanks!

[kuoh]

Well there's not that much to describe, just a lot of screws and contorting to get under the dash. First, pop out the coin holder, parking lights and mirror switch assemblies and disconnect. Remove the two screws that are now revealed and you should be able to pull down the front lip of the lower covering and remove it, after disconnecting the wiper position switch and light. Next, remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the lower metal plate. Then remove all the screws in the lower halves of the two steering colump covers, making note of which screws came from which holes, some are different. Finally, remove the 3 screws holding the last metal plate and you should now have complete access to the ignition switch area. Now you just have to figure out how to unscrew the security bolts. Mine had already worked loose a long time ago and I replaced them with the allen head bolts as shown in one of the pics, so it was a cinch to remove and reinstall this time. That should be about as much detail as anyone would need.

I hope you're happy now, because any thief can disassemble your steering column now.

KuoH

[Earthworm]

Hey, wanna submit that on the SVXipedia on http://svx-iw.com/

(I just added a new feature to the SVXipedia)

[Hop]

Is this where the key goes in? I can't tell from the pics. My key grinds in the tumblers and I'm afraid that it's not going to last long and was wondering if this would be a fix for it. Did the part come with tumbler and new keys? Or can I order just the tumbler?

Oops, just saw the diagram below. So, would I have to order and replace all locks to repair this?

I thought about putting in a remote starter as a fix but I think that you still have to install and turn the key to drive.
Greg

[kwren]

Maybe lubricate it with a graphic based lub.
If you have another key that works better, get a new copy made. Could be a worn key?
Good luck,
Keith

[Hop]

It's the same grind with both keys and neither key looks worn. It grinds about 3/4 of the turn. I'll look for some graphite lub on my next trip the the parts store. Thanks. Greg

[DansSVXBlues]

I too have to jump back in here and tip the bill of the cap to Kuoh for the great pics and description of steps to change out that !#@$!@ ignition switch. I lived with this problem for YEARS!!! I could hear what appeared to be the solenoid clicking each time I tried to start my SVX followed by the dash and indicator lights dimming if I held it. Had 2 different dealerships change my alternator and my starter plus advise me to replace the battery and of course none of those things solved the problem.

After Googling and finding his post, I tore that puppy apart myself and tonight, with the help of (2) #8-1.25 allen head screws to replace the security bolts I had to drill out, put in a new ignition switch. Just like MAGIC the intermittent starting problem that was gradually getting worse and worse was gone.

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You and Hallelujah!!!

Now I can finally get back to enjoying the ride of my '94 SVX again.

Thanks Kuoh!

Dan's SVX (not so) Blues

[ScottyB]

So, I need to replace my ignition. Does anyone know where the pictures in this thread are? They would be very helpful, Thanks

[redlightningsvx]

I would take the new ignition to a locksmith and have them recode it so you can use your old key.

[BoxerFanatic]

can you not just replace the electrical switch, without replacing the lock tumbler section?

I recently re-keyed my motorcycle, and it was possible there, and that is pretty tight confines.

[Tim]

Bump --- anyone have a copy of these pics?