Shaved door handles

[Elliott]

Originally Posted by michael

Relocate it behind the license plate.

More trouble than it is worth, the gas door is totally flush and isn't intrusive on the lines of the car, it isn't like the ones with the little bump to open it, those are annoying. You don't notice it unless it is a different color, which is the case with mine currently.

Also, I just realized, the license plate is on the trunk lid...

[Elliott]

Originally Posted by svxcess

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Does this car have a fiberglass hood? I would love to get rid of the washer nozzles, but there is no way I could do it without warping the hell out of the hood. I was extremely careful when I did the door handle, but still got some warpage. Nothing a hammer and dolly couldn't fix, but enough that doing the hood seems like a horrible idea.

[huck369]

So what happens if your battery goes dead, and your doors are shut?

[redlightningsvx]

You could put a cold patch on the bottom of the hood and fill it in on the top.

[Elliott]

Originally Posted by huck369

So what happens if your battery goes dead, and your doors are shut?

I'm going to have a backup of some form, whether it will be electrical or mechanical, I haven't decided yet.

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

You could put a cold patch on the bottom of the hood and fill it in on the top.

I'm not exactly sure what a "cold patch" is, but it sounds like a half assed job that will shrink and crack in 6 months or so.

[redlightningsvx]

Just take a tiny piece of sheet metal to fill the hole, then put some duraglass for instance over the fill in piece and around the surrounding scuffed area. You wouldnt have to get pretty with it as it's all mostly hidden. Then fill the top of the hood with some glazing putty. It's not really half assed and that duraglass is some seriously strong sh!t like ALL-METAL.

[Elliott]

I'd much rather leave them than do something like that. It would probably hold up for a while, but sooner or later, it is going to fail. Fiberglass doesn't like metal that much, they expand at different rates, a hood is subject to a lot of heating and cooling cycles, it will crack. Also, using filler on holes like that never goes well, it will eventually shrink and pull away from the metal, so you will see the outline of the hole.

If I do something, I'm going to do it right.

[redlightningsvx]

The all-metal stuff is what we use in our bodyshop when we put on quarter panels. We never have any problems with it at all. It's like putty,resin,metal all in one.

[Elliott]

I know about All-metal, there is a '79 Brat that has a ton of that stuff in it now, but that was, admittedly, a half assed clean up job. There was plenty of new metal welded into it, rockers, lower quarters, bottoms of the doors and lower fenders, but there was a bunch of serious pitting that was not worth replacing, so it was filled with All-Metal. That is by no means a show car, it looks great 2 years later, but it isn't perfect. I swear, those old Subarus came from the factory with rust.

It is good stuff, but I would much rather weld than use it for something like this.

[redlightningsvx]

I hear you on the rust. The new ones now just get stone chipped so bad that they rust within a couple 1000 miles. Luckily mine is rust free The progress so far on your car looks pretty good, I bet sectioning out the quarter panel sucked big time. I was going to ask why you only used half instead of just putting the whole thing on?

[Elliott]

I wanted to avoid important parts that weren't damaged. Like the tail light area, gas door and the quarter trim mounting area, those all fit great and I didn't want to take a chance messing it up. It also gave me something to reference from. Plus, it was a hell of a lot easier to cut the parts off the other car in sections, those quarters and the inner structure are complicated beasts.

[redlightningsvx]

That makes sense, I have yet to do an svx quarter and don't plan on doing one anytime soon but I like how the splice is in the door jamb than on the outside of the car like most so the outside stays untouched.

[Elliott]

I knew that side of the car had issues when I bought it, but I never expected it to be as bad as it was. I really should have pulled that lower plastic to find out exactly what happened before I bought it. It looks like the car fishtailed into something very solid. I probably still would have bought it, but I would have been a little more firm on the $400 price instead of giving him $600 for it.

I'm so glad I got that parts car, I would be so screwed without it. I'd still be hammering and dollying that rear quarter back into shape and pulling the inner structure back out with a come along instead of doing custom stuff.

All in all, for about a week of working on it in between customer stuff, it is coming along nicely.

[nsm484]

After you get the doors done, are you still planning on the 4 Windows down with the extra channels?

I did this type of install on my roomate's 1990 Legacy Turbo Sport. we had it do all 4 windows down, and up, on 2 of the 8 channels we had to play with.

However, Seeing as they stoped giving power by detecting the load on the window motors, Looking at my 96, there are times where the windows actualy move very slowly, and I am wondering if that would cause that kind of application to not work correctly because it would detect a high load, even though the windows wern't all the way down/up?

Eather way, I am Subscribed, As all of this has perked my SVXtacy dreams

[Elliott]

I'll probably do it eventually, but since it is not really necessary, I'll put it off until I get more important things done on the car. I'll probably do the trunk before I do the windows, might have to do the trunk actually, that lock is looking rather ugly to me lately

Chances are, I'll end up doing the windows on my friend's Roadmaster wagon first, he has the same 7 channel Spal kit I will be using, I should have never put the window idea in his head.