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  #1  
Old 11-19-2007, 07:13 PM
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Boxersix Boxersix is offline
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Alt wiring diagram..

Anyone here have a pdf file or jpg image of a wiring diagram for the alternator circuit on a '92 SVX? I'm weeding out the unnecessary wire circuits from this main harness to use in the 962 and have to piece the parts back together now I had a diagram book here but lost it and the replacement I ordered is a ways out yet.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2007, 07:48 PM
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are you really going to use an EG33 in a real 962? And I thought I was bad by putting one in my 78' SC. I HAVE GOT TO SEE PICTURES OF THIS. Please, Please, Please.

Last edited by kcpaz; 11-19-2007 at 10:15 PM.
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  #3  
Old 11-19-2007, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxersix View Post
Anyone here have a pdf file or jpg image of a wiring diagram for the alternator circuit on a '92 SVX? I'm weeding out the unnecessary wire circuits from this main harness to use in the 962 and have to piece the parts back together now I had a diagram book here but lost it and the replacement I ordered is a ways out yet.

Thanks!
Connect the large terminal to the battery via a fuse link, in order to protect against short circuits.

Looking at the alternator male socket with the key at the top, connect the left hand pin (2), which is the pilot wire sensing voltage for the voltage regulator, to the battery via a relatively small gauge wire and preferably a 5 amp fuse. Otherwise to any fused circuit with a short connection to the battery, which will NOT involve a voltage drop.

The right hand pin (1) provides a signal for a trouble lamp and completes a circuit to ground, only when the alternator is not charging.

Plug connections have been taken from the manual, which I trust is correct. If you have the original loom as a reference, the wires to the battery should be coloured white.
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Last edited by Trevor; 11-19-2007 at 10:42 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-19-2007, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
Connect the large terminal to the battery via a fuse link, in order to protect against short circuits.

Looking at the alternator male socket with the key at the top, connect the left hand pin (2), which is the pilot wire sensing voltage for the voltage regulator, to the battery via a relatively small gauge wire and preferably a 5 amp fuse. Otherwise to any fused circuit with a short connection to the battery, which will NOT involve a voltage drop.

The right hand pin (1) provides a signal for a trouble lamp and completes a circuit to ground, only when the alternator is charging.

Plug connections have been taken from the manual, which I trust is correct. If you have the original loom as a reference, the wires to the battery should be coloured white.
okay, so this guy obviously knows more about this than I do . Now I have a question. how do you wire pin (1) correctly?
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2007, 10:48 PM
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okay, so this guy obviously knows more about this than I do . Now I have a question. how do you wire pin (1) correctly?
Connect pin (1) to the negative terminal of an indicator lamp which has the positive side energised via the ignition switch.
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  #6  
Old 11-19-2007, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcpaz View Post
are you really going to use an EG33 in a real 962? And I thought I was bad by putting one in my 78' SC. I HAVE GOT TO SEE PICTURES OF THIS. Please, Please, Please.
Not a 100% real 962 but fairly close. I'm building a bi turbo eg33 to go into a tube chassis and suspension that I designed to fit a real 962 body that I have purchased from a manufacturer. Short tail model, not the original longtail lemans version as the aero dictates low drag/high speed vs good grip and stability. The car is going to be street legal and registered and weighing in around 2100lbs so I chose the short tail version for the stability and grip factors. There are no pictures yet that I'm realeasing online as it's proprietary to my company and will be a production chassis for people to purchase as a kit and install their own drivetrain. I really don't want someone else to see parts to copy until patents go through. Very similar to how companies like factory Five and Ultima produce their kits....makes registration and paperwork like that much easier.......

Here's a picture of the body though



Nice to see some P-car interest here


Anyway.....thanks for the ALt information. I assumed battery terminal was battery voltage but had no idea about the male clip harness. So if I'm not using any sore of indicator light in the system, pin number 1 can be capped off correct and just utilize pin 2 for the regulator signal? Makes things simple for me...

Thanks again for the info and help.

Last edited by Boxersix; 11-19-2007 at 11:36 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2007, 12:52 AM
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On the basis of my experience, I would say check on registered designs, cheaper than patents and could provide better protection. Give it some thought.
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2007, 06:50 AM
kcpaz kcpaz is offline
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thanks Trevor.

Boxersix, what's the name of the company you work for? This is you right??? You've done a pretty good job keeping this thing a secret I can't wait to see pictures of the chassis.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=376575

Last edited by kcpaz; 11-20-2007 at 06:52 AM.
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2007, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by kcpaz View Post
thanks Trevor.

Boxersix, what's the name of the company you work for? This is you right??? You've done a pretty good job keeping this thing a secret I can't wait to see pictures of the chassis.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=376575
I see you found me on Pelican. I usually keep low and work by word of mouth vs flashy advertisement. I own my own shop fabricating race car chassis/components, performance engine builds and/or forced inductions setups. Small business, with most of the work in one off components or replacements parts for vehicles that have parts NLA or hard to locate. I also repair tubular chassis for Spec class cars like the RT2000, FSR, Formulas, etc.

This 962 project is something I started designing about four years ago and am now just getting into the prototype stage where I'm building the chassis. It's more of a side project for me right now but I'm planning on rolling out chassis #001 summer 2008 for some test runs at Watkins Glen sans bodywork. it's not being built to claim fastest, or best handling kit car. Just a very well rounded kit relatively cheap that closely replicates(IMO) the greatest race car in history, and in doing so allow you to enjoy it on the street

The EG33 is really just a temp motor as it closely resembles the Porsche 3.6 Biturbo yet costs $18,000 less. It's the motor I want to test with but can't afford as of yet. The chassis will be offered with four drivetrain options to fit everyones budget and of course part availability on the market. Eg33 is not one of those options so don't worry, people won't be snagging up all the used motors around here
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2007, 08:15 AM
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  #11  
Old 11-20-2007, 10:30 AM
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For what it's worth?..... are you kidding...that's a HUGE help! Thank you very much for that link as it's going to make my life alot easier. I'll just cancel my order on the book now Thanks again!

-Adam
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2007, 11:06 AM
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I entirely lifted that link... You know who you are.
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2007, 06:44 PM
kcpaz kcpaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxersix View Post
I see you found me on Pelican. I usually keep low and work by word of mouth vs flashy advertisement. I own my own shop fabricating race car chassis/components, performance engine builds and/or forced inductions setups. Small business, with most of the work in one off components or replacements parts for vehicles that have parts NLA or hard to locate. I also repair tubular chassis for Spec class cars like the RT2000, FSR, Formulas, etc.

This 962 project is something I started designing about four years ago and am now just getting into the prototype stage where I'm building the chassis. It's more of a side project for me right now but I'm planning on rolling out chassis #001 summer 2008 for some test runs at Watkins Glen sans bodywork. it's not being built to claim fastest, or best handling kit car. Just a very well rounded kit relatively cheap that closely replicates(IMO) the greatest race car in history, and in doing so allow you to enjoy it on the street

The EG33 is really just a temp motor as it closely resembles the Porsche 3.6 Biturbo yet costs $18,000 less. It's the motor I want to test with but can't afford as of yet. The chassis will be offered with four drivetrain options to fit everyones budget and of course part availability on the market. Eg33 is not one of those options so don't worry, people won't be snagging up all the used motors around here
Well I for one can't wait to see some pictures. Maybe you can slip me a few. I won't share with anyone I promise
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