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#31
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I had the same problem at one point, with the exact same symptoms. I tried a few things at once, so im not sure what fixed it. Im pretty sure the problem was with a leaky coil boot. They all looked good, but one didn't fit tight. I noticed a faint little carbon line leaking around the plug, it was almost unnoticeable.
If the switch doesn't fix it , I would try these things. 1. Change the coil boots and add a small amount of dia electric grease to the inside of the boot only. I used the distributor side boots from a pair of Chevy caprice 8mm wires from napa. They are a bit snug to get on, but work as good if not better than stock. 2. Check all the grounds under the hood. Make sure that all the connections are clean and wires are corrosion free. I found that most of the wires in my car had sever corrosion inside the connectors. If you see any green corrosion, I would either replace the wire, or cut the wire back a bit and replace the connector. 3. Check to see that the upper intake manifold bolts are tight. I found that all of mine were loose, and could unscrew 4 of them by hand. This would allow unmetered air into the cylinders. Not sure of the torque specs off hand, but I know someone here has them. 4.Clean the MAF with MAF cleaner. MAF cleaner is less harsh than brake and carb cleaner, which can harm the components of the MAF. 5. If you use an oiled type air filter, Try replacing it with a paper one, while you are testing out your repairs. It is possable to over oil the filter, both restricting air flow, and coating the MAF wires with oil. Give them a shot and let us know the out come. I would really look into the coil boots. They are cheep and easy to replace, and to be quite honest I think this is where your problem lies.
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IT'S 5:00 SOMEWHERE!!! 92 Liquid Silver SVX LS-L |
#32
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Dan... just saw this... I actually got a switch from Tom the elder this past week. First I want to check the continuity of your ign switch while the car is driving, so when this "stall" does happen we can see if the switch is causing it
Tom |
#33
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Is it possible when the timing chain was replaced something (a cam) was off by one tooth? At low speeds/RPM it would go unnoticed but as the revs go up it would become more problematic.
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#34
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Tom |
#35
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Could it be a glitch in the brain? Thought i read it resets when the battery is disconnected or some such. Though sure Tom tried that by now. *pounds head into desk ummmm oh that it E=mc2, that should solve it.
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#36
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the ECU is a logical option... I do not have a way to test it outside of just swapping it with a good one... Which I do not have handy. I did remove it and look for loose or bad connections in the ECU itself and look for what I would expect to see as a crack or a burn on both the topside and underside of the chip board. I also tried to smell it for any resonance of electrical burninng if it did have a short inside... As far as I am concerned at this point. this should not be his problem
Tom |
#37
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Hi Tom,
I already ordered the switch, which should be here early next week -- I hope. I was planning on having it put in locally and seeing if this solves the problem. Of course I would much much much rather bring it to you, but it's a long drive and the traffic on Southern State - Belt Parkway - Staten Island is brutal. You were definitely very thorough and there's no way I can thank you enough. I'm going to look through all the suggestions mentioned in this thread and try to have as many as possible checked during switch install. Is the switch easy to install? Maybe I could do it myself.
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Used to have: 1994 Pearlie, 40,945 miles, PWR Radiator, Motorsports Aluminum Crank Pulley, Raceconcepts Stainless Brake Lines, Axxis Ceramic Brake Pads, ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid, Dimpled/Slotted Rotors, BBS STi 17 Silver Wheels, Toyo Proxe4 225/45/17 tires, New Dekka Battery, Unauthordox Racing Oil Cap -- adds 3.14 hp, OEM Coin Holder FFTDS aka Force Field Theft Deterent System. Magnetic oil drain plug, Purolator larger oil filter. Now she's in good caring hands at Earls place. |
#38
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You have to take apart a great portion of the steering column to get to it... I would say it is not easy Tom |
#39
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Take note of this, my previous post, before deciding to spend time and or money on replacing the ignition switch.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#40
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well, he has decided to wave the 4 hr drive to come here so I can only be of verbal assistance. I got a good working switch to test the problem, not to fix it
Tom |
#41
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#42
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I understand trevor... but jumping ignition wires is not something I really want to do... get the wrong wire and you are in a heap of trouble... If I could merely check the continuity of the circuit while this stall is happening it would tell me more than the fix or no fix
Tom |
#43
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#44
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how is it useless? I mean from what I can gather, the switch is dropping its ability to hold a connection and thus dropping its continuity??
Tom |
#45
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Quote:
__________________
Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
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