Crunching sound while turning

HELP!!

I firs noticed a slight sound on the right side. Has gotten worse. and now the left side did it today.

Any help is greatly appreciated. When I straighten out it stops.

There is also a loud squeecking sound but thats the new PS belt that needs a little tightening. I have to recheck the fluid also.

Thanx
Wayne

[cocacola08]

Originally posted by oneothefewproud
There is also a loud squeecking sound but thats the new PS belt that needs a little tightening. I have to recheck the fluid also.

Fluid would be my first stop.

[wawazat??]

Wayne,
I hope its not the transfer clutches. Do you notice the noise when making a tight turn or just when turning the steering wheel? The transfer clutches which failed in my car made the whole car lurch or pop when I made a tight turn.

If this isn't it it's probably the steering rack. Your boots may have failed allowing grit to get into the rack causing it to fail. The crunching may be the grit. Check the boots on the ends of the racks which connect to the tie rod ends whihc connect to the front hub.

Good Luck
Todd

Can someone tell me the part numbers for CV boots, Transfer Clutches. Etc. Would like to have a ballpark on this. The Rack I can get from Reliabilt for $159 plus $75 core and Plus shipping.

Lifetime warranty.

Thanx
Wayne

[wawazat??]

Wayne,
I should be picking mine up from the dealership tomorrow for the x-fer clutch replacement. I was quoted a cost of $982 for the parts and labor and told that these parts are in short supply in the US. SOA is covering the repair under the warranty even though it is technically expired.
When I pick it up I'll either scan the bill or post part #'s and costs. Sorry for your problems.
Todd

Todd,

Well, I went home and with my engine still very very hot. took off the belt cover and carefully loosened the puly nut. Then tightened the tension bolt on the Alternator belt. Then tightened the Pully nut again.

Put the cover back on and checked the Res level. Seemed fine. I added about 4 Tablespoons of fluid and rechecked. didnt look like it changed. put the cap back on.

When I went to go play tennis I heard NOTHING. I started her up this AM and pulled out of the driveway and deard NOTHING.

Go figure. I am going to replace the rack in the coming months.

Thanx for everyones input.

Ciao
Wayne

[1994SubaruSVX]

it is definitely you axles. dont go long without getting this fixed. the svx has so much torque that eventually it will bind the axles and actually pull them out of the tranny. well at least that is what happened to me. i would suggest buying them from subaruparts.com. going the rebuild route hear is a mistake. they will last for a little while but they are bound to fail again. i am speaking from experience. be careful.

Got under the car last night. Saw smoke when at a light. Not good.

1. Rack leaking worse now and getting on the pipes.
2. Right CV Boot Cracked getting everywhere


Have to get the parts and get her back in shape.

Does anyone have a How-To on the CV boots. Or am I going to have to try the Chiltons manual?

Thanx
Wayne

I am also going to put on new rotors.
Should I go ahead and do both CV Boots?

[svxistentialist]

Wayne

The sound you heard is likely to be the Constant Velocity joint. If the boot is cracked or damaged, it will lose lubrication. Then the bearings dry up. Then they break up.

This should be most noticable on full lock. Take the car to an empty car park or airfield. Drive it around on full lock clockwise and anticlockwise. If it cracks or crunches, one of your CV's is done, maybe both. The good news is, it is most likely the one with the damaged rubber boot.

If the car is older, good advice to replace both boots .
You will have to replace the actual damaged joint, but you should not have to replace the one which still has lubricant.

A word of advice. If it is a CV, do not apply much power to the axel when on lock. This may destroy what's left of the CV. Drive gently till you fix it. Leave on the manual switch, this cuts out the power and shock of first gear.

If the joint breaks, being an AWD vehicle, the drive may bring you home. You may have to tie up the loose shaft safely, while allowing it to rotate. Or you may be able to withdraw it from the diff. Believe me you do not need this trouble. I would let a spanner jockey do this job, but I don't know how good a spannerman you are. Best of luck.

Joe

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by oneothefewproud
Got under the car last night. Saw smoke when at a light. Not good.

1. Rack leaking worse now and getting on the pipes.
2. Right CV Boot Cracked getting everywhere


Have to get the parts and get her back in shape.

Does anyone have a How-To on the CV boots. Or am I going to have to try the Chiltons manual?

Thanx
Wayne

I am also going to put on new rotors.
Should I go ahead and do both CV Boots?

Wayne, e-mail me and I'll attach the files. I just scanned them for another member the other night.