SVX Network Forums Live Chat! SVX or Subaru Links Old Lockers Photo Post How-To Documents Message Archive SVX Shop Search |
IRC users: |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Bondo questions
The race car has a dent in the rear d. side panel that is rusting. I got it all ready to bondo today and the bondo that I have just peels right off once it hardens. The plan is to bondo it, prime it then cover it with a sticker but any ideas what I might be doing wrong? I've never had such an issue with the crap? Should I get some dif. stuff. I've never heard of the brand that is here, not even sure where or when I got it.
__________________
British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
You're going to need to grind it down to the bare metal, no rust or anything. Also, when you get the bondo on there; 1. Let it go for a while (it does peel off if you don't let it set for a bit) and 2. Cover it with paint or something to keep it from getting battered by the elements (mainly air)
__________________
-Jason (8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95 Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod, svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar, silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear (1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver (12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k) I have a bad feeling about this. -Obi Wan Kenobi |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Get different stuff. The stuff you have is probably old and expired or low quality. Also try to pop out the dent as much as possible so the bondo is not on too thick. Before you put it on you should have sanded it to bare metal. After you get it to bare metal, rub the metal with 36 grit paper to get some deep scratches on the metal. Finally blow all the dust off and apply the bondo.
Good luck |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Weight?
I see you are adding weight back to your racer?
Lee
__________________
SVXx2 92 SVX LS-L Silver 92 SVX LS-L Burgundy (structurally challenged with 2792 miles) 96 SVX LSi Red 92 SVX LS Pearl (Parts) 01 F150 4X4 Red (+6 with other members of the family) FREEDOM IS NOT FREE |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks guys, I thought I was doing something wrong. I didn't take all the paint off but about 2/3rds as I need it to be small enough of an area that no painting other than priming will be necessary for the time being. The stuff did tell me to prime the bare metal though which I though was odd. Just gonna cover it with a sticker anyways. Currently its drying on a 3rd coat of stuff I just bought.
As for the weight, we probably put a good 200lbs on it this week with the rear dif, driveshaft and axles not to mention the race harness. She's a downright 3000lb pig now! The bondo is on the rear so it is just there for ballast!
__________________
British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Bon't use Bondo, Bondo is made from TALC ( Baby Powder ) and will soak uo water like a spong and the paint will peel a lot better stuff out there. Yes pare metal shinny bare metal
Last edited by Conn SVX; 07-17-2005 at 02:22 PM. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
I used to do body work when I was younger. You always need to sand down to the bare metal and drilling some small holes also helps the filler to hold on better ( the filler goes behind the dent through the holes and acts as an anchore to the body) Use wet sand paper to finish and prime it to protect it before the final coat.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Is it right where mine is? I am curious on how you fix it and please post pics when your done.
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|