Which amplifier should I go with?

[IwantaSVX]

I'm not an audiophile. I've been talking with Jimsbaby about the wiring and amp. I'll paste the specifications on the subs below. I went with the Alpine 9831 head unit....which seemed like a good choice I'm going to be running 4ga power and ground wires from the battery and a 1 fd cap. I'm taking my car to a shop on Monday to have a box custom built. Just a basic, unported, dual wood enclosure....within spec to my subwoofers.

I'm just wondering what everyone would recommend for an amplifier to power these two subs?

Peak Power Handling- 1200 watts
RMS Power Handling- 300 watts rms
Frequency Response- 20 hz-250 hz
Impedance- 4 ohms
Sensitivity- 92 db
Size- 12"
Dual Voice Coil- NO
Voice Coil Design- Single Copper
Free Air Resonance- 29 hz
Sealed Box Volume- 1.25 cu ft

I went with these subs as the price was right and everyone that posted a review seemed to be more than happy with them. I quote (from more than just a few reviews) "NO DISTORTION, CLEAN-SOUNDING BASS, DURABILITY IS AWESOME." A handful of people say that they've had no problem overpowering them with very little to no distortion at all.

Any pointers for me when I'm shopping for an amp? I'm probably going to go Ebay for one as I'm definitely not impressed by any of the local audio shops retail prices! I just don't know what power output to be aiming for, as I've had everyone tell me something different (some talk about bridging and stuff that just goes in one ear and out the other). I definitely do not want to underpower them, and I'm looking for the "shake the ground, set car alarms off" results that people have got using them.

[msvx95]

I would be needing an amp soon too, but I wouldn't know what to get yet...but I have a question for you:

I installed the Alpine 9830 recently and I'm wondering if you adjusted the Time Correction on the speakers. I got somewhat confused on the chart. I made some measurements from each speaker to my ear as I sit in the driver's seat (with the help of someone holding the tape measure..lol)
It seems the calculations show for measuring from speaker to speaker, but the radio only allows to input for FL, FR, RL, RR which to me means measure from those speakers to the driver.
Does this make sense??

If you've done this adjustment, what were your numbers if you don't mind me asking.

Thanks,

[kuoh]

The purpose of time correction is to adjust the output of each speaker so that the same sound arrives at your ears at exactly the same time. To do this, the unit needs to know how far each speaker is fromt the ideal listener's position. This means that you should measure from the center of the speaker to an imaginary mid point between your ears. Unless of course, you have that rare but special ability to pass a measuring tape through your head, in which case you can get an exact measurement!

KuoH

Originally posted by msvx95
I installed the Alpine 9830 recently and I'm wondering if you adjusted the Time Correction on the speakers. I got somewhat confused on the chart. I made some measurements from each speaker to my ear as I sit in the driver's seat (with the help of someone holding the tape measure..lol)
It seems the calculations show for measuring from speaker to speaker, but the radio only allows to input for FL, FR, RL, RR which to me means measure from those speakers to the driver.
Does this make sense??

[msvx95]

LOL........Yes, I did take the measurements from the centers of each speaker to my head.........I was able to detach my head and tape it to the headrest while I proceeded with the measurements.....(actually I had someone help me).

So assuming that is correct, I would just put the time correction numbers that associate with my dimensions?....I did do this, just making sure I was correct.....I thought I still had to measure from speaker to speaker also.

[rob_4187]

Well while we're on the subject... would a 230 continuous watt amp do justice for a 10" Power Acoustic FUBR that has a 600 watt rms rating? They're on sale at Best Buy for really cheap!

[rob_4187]

If anyone has anything to say about the above that would be awsome cuz best buy is down to ONE SUB!!! Alot of internet reviews suggest that he sub i have now (infinity reference) is better but i would assume that the power acoustik is the better pick.

[SubaSteevo]

Originally posted by rob_4187
If anyone has anything to say about the above that would be awsome cuz best buy is down to ONE SUB!!! Alot of internet reviews suggest that he sub i have now (infinity reference) is better but i would assume that the power acoustik is the better pick.

Stick with the Infiniti, and use the money to get a bigger amp

[IwantaSVX]

The Infinity subs I bought were very well rated by consumers. I would stick with those.

I went with an Alpine MRD-M605 amp. Rated at 600 watts rms X 1 @ 2 ohms.

I also purchased the harware to link the amp/headunit together. Now I can control all the functions/settings of the amp from my head unit.

The 9830 is also compatible with certain V12 Class D mono amps.

I'm looking for a 1 fd CAP now and then I'll be installing.

[lee]

Originally posted by rob_4187
If anyone has anything to say about the above that would be awsome cuz best buy is down to ONE SUB!!! Alot of internet reviews suggest that he sub i have now (infinity reference) is better but i would assume that the power acoustik is the better pick.

depends on what you mean by better. I would say the Inifinity does a better job with musical accuracy (sound quality) and the Power Acoustic will get louder.

[rob_4187]

Originally posted by BurgundyBeast


Stick with the Infiniti, and use the money to get a bigger amp

The amp pushes continuous 230 and the rms handling of the sub is 250.

[kuoh]

How cheap is cheap? The end result will depend on the specs of the sub and the enclosure you're going to use.

KuoH

Originally posted by rob_4187
Well while we're on the subject... would a 230 continuous watt amp do justice for a 10" Power Acoustic FUBR that has a 600 watt rms rating? They're on sale at Best Buy for really cheap!

[rob_4187]

Originally Posted by kuoh

How cheap is cheap? The end result will depend on the specs of the sub and the enclosure you're going to use.

KuoH

$57 each or 2 for $109. The sub i have now will burn it up cuz of the distortion so i might buy it and hold on to it untill i sell my car and get a new one . I'll prolly go with a ported box.

[lee]

Originally Posted by IwantaSVX

...snip...

I'm looking for a 1 fd CAP now and then I'll be installing.

If I were you, I'd save my money & see if you need a cap first...dimming lights in beat with bass notes. I am running about 600 watts now & never have found a need for a cap. Make sure your wiring is up to snuff...maybe do the magic 3, check the grounds, etc.

[kuoh]

The price certainly seems right. I don't have any personal experience with those subs, but the few reviews I've read seem to indicate they perform better in ported boxes. Personally I prefer my bass to be tight over loud, so I wouldn't run a ported box no matter what sub I used. That's why I ordered an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10 VQ a couple of days ago for about the price of your 2 subs.

You can certainly drive a sub with less power than they're rated for, just don't expect miracles and don't constantly drive the amp into clipping. Exactly what improvement are you looking for, more SPL or better SQ?

KuoH

Originally Posted by rob_4187

$57 each or 2 for $109. The sub i have now will burn it up cuz of the distortion so i might buy it and hold on to it untill i sell my car and get a new one . I'll prolly go with a ported box.

[rob_4187]

Originally Posted by kuoh

Exactly what improvement are you looking for, more SPL or better SQ?
KuoH

I'll take a little of both The SQ with the infinity is pretty good. It is very accurate and keeps up well. I've heard louder from a single 10 but i think stepping up to a power acoustik would mean bringing in the big bucks for a new amp and everything.