Performance transmission build - Page 11

AyeJaye · #**151** 08-05-2009, 03:40 PM

Okay, but if I wanted a 4.11 would I need to switch differential gears as well?

redlightningsvx · #**152** 08-05-2009, 04:55 PM

Yes.............

AyeJaye · #**153** 08-05-2009, 04:59 PM

Thank you.

Most likely going to order one of these next month. Do you have them in stock currently LAN?

longassname · #**154** 08-05-2009, 06:04 PM

Nope, I build it when you order it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AyeJaye

Thank you.

Most likely going to order one of these next month. Do you have them in stock currently LAN?

AyeJaye · #**155** 08-05-2009, 06:30 PM

What is your turn around time on a partial rebuild?

longassname · #**156** 08-05-2009, 06:34 PM

would depend on where the core comes from. You should give yourself time. I won't be rushed through a build. That wouldn't be good for either of us.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AyeJaye

What is your turn around time on a partial rebuild?

AyeJaye · #**157** 08-05-2009, 07:02 PM

I definitely would prefer you didn't rush through the build.

So you would need my core first? I was under the assumption you had cores already and i would send you mine in the same box that the newly built one came in.

longassname · #**158** 08-05-2009, 07:13 PM

I would purchase a transmision (from someone else) to build after you ordered. I'm out of cores right now.

AyeJaye · #**159** 08-05-2009, 07:16 PM

Gotcha. Well, if all goes well I'll be ordering one next month. Thanks for the info!

longassname · #**160** 10-16-2011, 07:59 AM

I have one of these performance built transmissions in stock right now.

longassname · #**161** 04-12-2015, 08:56 AM

Ok, so I just looked through this thread from the begining. I was thinking it had been 5 or 6 years since I built the first performance 4eat. It has been 8.

That first performance 4eat has been in my pearly since it was built. I used that car to develop a few things so it has been on the dyno a few times with some real power but it has mainly been a daily driver for my mom all of that time. I'm giving her my SUV now as I upgrade mine and reclaim the pearly to make it my personal SVX.

So, I've pulled the driveline out of the pearly to make way for the new one I'm building for it. I've gone through the 9.3 compression engine which is for sale/sold. And I've started going through this transmission which is also for sale. As far as I'm concerned this transmission is a piece of SVX history. I had really gotten jammed up blowing up every transmission I put in my ebony before I developed this rebuild. It's 8 years later now and I just opened up and inspected every clutch pack in it and every one looks and measures like new.

longassname · #**162** 04-12-2015, 08:56 AM

There are a lot of parts in a transmission....so there are going to be a lot of pictures. I've gone through this

transmission now and as expected it shows virtually no signs of wear. It has really held up well. After 8 years every last

friction in it is still like new.

Ok, so out comes the torque converter:

Then I cleaned up the outside with some wd40:

Opened the extension housing and removed the transfer clutch:

Opened the transfer clutch up and inspected the frictions. The transfer frictions are the only "tan" (tan = regular)

frictions I use. The transfer clutch is broken in so it operates smoothly but not at all worn. The original thickness of

the frictions when new was 0.071"...they are still 0.071" thick. You might also note that the fluid in the transmission is

very clean. That's because nothing in it has worn.

Next, I destaked the stake nut which holds the driven gear to the end of the pinion, pulled the through bolted transfer

clutch hub/drive gear/output shaft assembly, pulled the driven gear, pulled the parking lock mechanism, and cleaned the

mating surface.

longassname · #**163** 04-12-2015, 08:57 AM

Next came unsnapping the harnesses so they hung free, removing the fill/dipstick tube, and removing the cooler lines so the

differential could be removed. The differential doesn't show any wear either. I actually have the Subaru specialized tools

for setting up the differential. When you set them up right and use the right fluid they don't wear. You might note that

the contact pattern is large and in the center of the teeth.

With the extension housing and differential off it's time to stand up the transmission. The pump and pinion can be removed

as a unit.

With the pump off the transmission is open and I could start pulling out parts. I pulled the brake band out and inspected

and measured it. Although it was just a regular brake band it wasn't worn. It measured the same as the borg warner band I

favor now and will replace it with.

longassname · #**164** 04-12-2015, 08:58 AM

The brake band wraps around the reverse clutch drum. It comes out next. The guts of a transmission are pretty much a stack

of parts which stack into each other. For a while here you'll just see pictures of disassembled clutch packs but that will

be followed with the lined up parts which will be followed by the stacking them all back together in the transmission. By

the end you'll see what I mean.

Here's the reverse clutch pack opened up. Still looking good.

Next comes the high clutch. This one is the big deal. If something was going to be worn it would have been the high clutch

or the brake band. This is the clutch pack that is usually the culprit in a blown 4eat. It is also usually significantly

worn in a still normally operating 4eat. The stock clutch pack uses 5 frictions. I upgraded it with 6 high energy graphite

frictions and 6 kolene steels. Kolene steels are a hardened steel. They come with a black finish. The black you see on

them is finish that hasn't worn off. The 6 year old frictions are still the exact same thickness as the new ones I'm

replacing them with. There's nothing wrong with them but I'm replacing them anyway so that the next owner knows he has a

new high clutch.

Then there's the high clutch hub and a bunch of gear stuff I'll cover better during reassembly. For now here are the

planetaries, sun gears, bearings, one way clutches, etc etc all lined up:

longassname · #**165** 04-12-2015, 08:59 AM

Next is the forward clutch. The forward clutch drum is big. Most of the guts of the transmission fit inside it. With all

that removed and the forward clutch drum pulled out there's nothing left in the transmission case except the low/reverse

clutch which we will get to shortly. Now, the forward clutch drum houses both the overruning clutch and the forward clutch.

The forward clutch is the big one and it comes out first. The stock clutch pack uses 6 frictions. This clutch pack has 7.

Ok, so first out comes the forward clutch. Again, the frictions look new and measure the same as new. Then out comes the

overrunning clutch. Again the frictions look new and measure the same as new.

Now we can look in the transmission case and see the low reverse clutch which installs into the case itself. This 97 SVX

transmission originally had 6 frictions in this clutch pack. I changed it to the 92 style arrangement that uses 8. Like

every other friction in this thing they looked and measured like new:

Before putting anything and everything back in the transmission case I removed the pan and installed a new OE gasket. I

like the genuine Subaru pan gasket.