super charger? and a higher amp alternator?

[nowelsy]

ok ok ok ok i really do love every ones help in here. everytime i have a question some one in here helps me out and putts me on the right track. so this is my other delema. i am putting a 7'' touch screen dvd player in my suby and the lil compact ps2 i got those two problems figured out pretty good. now can some one please help me on telling me where i can get a higher amp alternator to keep up with my amp my dvd player the ps2 and some times the xm radio when i have it on? and alos i keep seein streems on you tube about guys with super chargers on there svx's. where do i get one? i removed my a/c in hope s of mounting it right there where the compressor used to be. can any one leed me where i would start on getting that lined up. im not putting it in until i swap my two motors but i would like to get a jump on it now if ya know what i mean. thanks again every one in the svx network for your help!!!! you guys and girls keep me informed and keep our cars on the road.. nowelsy

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by nowelsy

can some one please help me on telling me where i can get a higher amp alternator to keep up with my amp my dvd player the ps2 and some times the xm radio when i have it on?

I am ordering a 160A high-output alternator for my 1996 polo. HERE

Buy it, install it and send back your old core for a refund. Even without the core, it is cheaper than the stock 95A from Subaru.

I am also running the alternator wiring upgrade, using 4 gauge copper wire with an 175A inline Mega-Fuse. This gives me a constant voltage of 13.4V-13.8V, depending on accessories I am using.

.

[SVXelerator]

Mr. TOMSSVX has a supercharger set up he would like to sell.

[svxcess]

Here is the link for Tom's Stage III supercharger that was for sale.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...t=41900&page=2


.

[SVXRide]

John,
Where did you get the 100A inline fuse? Very clean (but then, would we expect anything else? )
-Bill

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

John,
Where did you get the 100A inline fuse? Very clean (but then, would we expect anything else? )
-Bill

100A fuses in the barrel shape are difficult to find (with 80A being more common.)

However, I found them on ebay for very cheap with the fuse holder. This is where I found the replacement fuses-- a great deal! Click HERE

.

[WestCoastSVX]

Hi John - What's the purpose of the 100amp fuse?

I've had the alt wiring "upgrade" on mine for 5 or 6 years, largely on your recommendation "back in the day". But back then, the fuse wasn't part of it. Some new revisions to this mod since then?

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by MacGyver

Hi John - What's the purpose of the 100amp fuse?

I've had the alt wiring "upgrade" on mine for 5 or 6 years, largely on your recommendation "back in the day". But back then, the fuse wasn't part of it. Some new revisions to this mod since then?

Troy,

I had the same wiring upgrade for as many years on both of my SVXs without any problems whatsoever. I also performed 4 consecutive alternator wiring upgrades "back in the day" at the tenth anniversary in Lafayette, without any follow-up problems either.

However, Trevor made many posts about the dangers of adding wires without the fuse protection incorporated into the original design. Do an advanced search under his name using keywords like "alternator" or "upgrade" for a lot more information. He thought the original circuitry was adequate and that faulty connections and corroded grounds caused our problems which needed attention, but were masked and not addressed by adding bigger wires.

Here are a couple of his quotes from these posts.

Originally Posted by Trevor

As you have correctly ascertained the fuse link is the sole protection against a short circuit within the alternator or its wiring and there is therefore very good reason to worry about this fuse.

A solid short with the added bypass cable in place (without fuse protection) could result in extreme heat and the possibility of an engine fire. Any insurance assessor worth his salt would turn down any claim in respect of a fire in the engine bay on the basis of this modification.

Originally Posted by Trevor

It must be appreciated that the alternator wiring mod as originally suggested, by passes all alternator over current protection, as has been incorporated in the original set up for very good reason. There has been a thread recorded where this factor appears to have directly caused alternator damage.

In the event of a front end collision and a short circuit at the alternator, you could end up with an engine compartment fire, as this circuit is capable of passing a very high fault current, thus producing intense heat. Should you make an insurance claim and your insurer’s assessors are on the ball, you will be out of luck in a big way through having removed OEM protection.

Just to be on the safe side and with respect to his vast knowledge of electrical circuitry, I added the fuse to my original modification.

As I said earlier, I have been running this upgrade since the very beginning without any sort of negative electrical effects.

.

[WestCoastSVX]

Thanks John. I remember Trevor's concerns back then and actually those quoted posts were very familiar. At some point I must have fallen off from those threads before you added the inline fuse. Seems like an good bit of insurance worth a few bucks and a little time. Thanks!

[svxcess]

As far as the 160A alternator goes, the company has another option for you to consider.

Although the stator/windings shown in the photos is a red, high-temp insulation coating, other colors are available. They can even duplicate the factory color. The high output units are built to order and take about 3 days

But for those of you who like "bling" The company will chrome plate your alternator case for an additional $80.00. This takes an additional 5 days.

I like "polish". I am not a big fan of chrome, which should be reserved for American classic street rods.

The link for that service can be found HERE
.

[svxcess]

Maniac Electric Motors, who have the high-output alternators, also have the stock rebuilt Mitsubishi 95A units in stock and ready to ship.

Price with core exchange: $78.00 plus shipping.
Without core, the price is $138.00 plus shipping

http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/13406.html

The same specs and double the warranty (2 years) as a Subaru remanufactured one for a lot less.


They also have remanufactured SVX starters. These are only $72.00 exchange, $122.00 outright, plus shipping

http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/39allst16.html


On both alternators AND starters, the core return charges are pre-paid by the company. They will send you a shipping label to return the core to them.

.

[WestCoastSVX]

The chrome might be a close match for the folks polishing their intake manifolds. I'm guessing the alternator casing is not aluminum and could not be polished the same way so the chrome job would have to do.

WAY back when, Doug powdercoated a few alternator casings before having them sent out to be rebuilt/upgraded. I always thought a red powdered casing would be cool and go with my other red accents in there. The stator/windings being red might be enough though. Like I said, I just have red ACCENTS, the larger parts are not painted red or anything.

[WestCoastSVX]

Originally Posted by svxcess

Maniac Electric Motors, who have the high-output alternators, also have the stock rebuilt Mitsubishi 95A units in stock and ready to ship.

Price with core exchange: $78.00 plus shipping.
Without core, the price is $138.00 plus shipping

http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/13406.html

The same specs and double the warranty (2 years) as a Subaru remanufactured one for a lot less.


They also have remanufactured SVX starters. These are only $72.00 exchange, $122.00 outright, plus shipping

http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/39allst16.html


On both alternators AND starters, the core return charges are pre-paid by the company. They will send you a shipping label to return the core to them.

.

GREAT deals!

But the price on the stock 95A alternator is so good it now brings up the dilemma of whether the 160A is worth quite a bit more than double the price!

Before it was easy, get a higher output alternator for less than the cost of OEM. But now it's get a OEM rebuild for 1/3 the price of OEM!

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by MacGyver

The chrome might be a close match for the folks polishing their intake manifolds. I'm guessing the alternator casing is not aluminum and could not be polished the same way so the chrome job would have to do.

I am not sure what the alternator case is made of. Aluminum CAN be chromed (I have seen SVX wheels chromed and Dayle sells them as well)

Chrome is too blue and "cold looking" I sent my disassembled alternator case to ThermalTech Coatings to have it aluminum-ceramic coated for $40.00. You can either have a high polish (as on my valve covers) or the satin aluminum finish (alternator finish)

It polishes the same way that aluminum polishes. Another company I have used is Airborn Coatings, but they don't have a satin finish option. Both have excellent reputations and great customer service.

Originally Posted by MacGyver

WAY back when, Doug powdercoated a few alternator casings before having them sent out to be rebuilt/upgraded. I always thought a red powdered casing would be cool and go with my other red accents in there. The stator/windings being red might be enough though. Like I said, I just have red ACCENTS, the larger parts are not painted red or anything.

I'm going for a more stock look and think they will use clear insulating coating to let the natural copper shine through.

Now if I was REALLY anal, I would send them some Polo Green Pearl paint, let them spray the windings and stator, and apply the clear insulating coat over them...

My overall goal is to improve on the stock components without getting too ricey. Polishing A?C lines which were raw aluminum is different from chroming or color anodizing them. Hoses should be black, just like drive belts and cables.

.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by MacGyver

GREAT deals!

But the price on the stock 95A alternator is so good it now brings up the dilemma of whether the 160A is worth quite a bit more than double the price!

As alternators age, corrosion and age (resistance) take a toll on output in the form of heat. When my car was cold upon first startup in the morning, my alternator output was 14.5V. After driving, idling, and using accessories it would drop to about 13.3V (sometimes down into the 12+ volt range at idle. An alternator is 35% efficient at idle. Most ratings are done at about 2500-3000rpm, where 100% efficiency)

A higher-amp alternator just makes it not have to work so hard to keep things efficient. It allows more of a load to be applied and allows room for expansion with additional components if needed. Similar in theory to the way the 4 gauge alternator wiring upgrade enhanced electrical performance by increasing current output.

Subaru put an barely "adequate" alternator in the SVX for the needs of the car back in 1992. Then same with the minimal wiring and grounds. It didn't take into account the reduced performance imposed through age, resistance and heat. It also didn't take into account the demands of aftermarket high-power stereos, amps, subwoofers, navigation systems, increase lighting, etc, unavailable at that time.

Before it was easy, get a higher output alternator for less than the cost of OEM. But now it's get a OEM rebuild for 1/3 the price of OEM!

For the budget-conscious, the stock rebuilt is definitely the way to go. better price, longer warranty, etc.