Solve my problem & win a prize

[DanSVX94]

My thoughts on the switch.

1) I already ordered and paid for the part. If I drove to Tom I would bring the switch and there's a good chance he would wind up putting it in.
2) When I brought the car to Subaru they mentioned it could be a lot of things with the switch being one possible cause. I would have hoped they checked the switch, but who knows.
3) Tolls to Tom are about $18 and gas about 40 and time both ways about 8 or 9 hours (because of traffic)

Of course I have much more confidence in Tom, and like hanging out with him.

Based on this it makes sense to put the switch in. I have a Subaru $100 coupon from using my Subaru credit card and this should cover the installation.

After the switch is installed, I will test drive. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can request that Subaru look into some of the other possibilities mentioned in this thread.

As soon as I recieve the part, and get it installed I will post the results.

[DanSVX94]

Well I had the switch installed last Monday and I thought it might have solved the problem. Today I took the SVX on the highway and after a little while the "misfire" happened again. It happened about 4 times each way of a 30 mile trip. So, I don't know what to try next.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by DanSVX94

Well I had the switch installed last Monday and I thought it might have solved the problem. Today I took the SVX on the highway and after a little while the "misfire" happened again. It happened about 4 times each way of a 30 mile trip. So, I don't know what to try next.

You have installed a switch contrary to my advice and your ignition circuit remains a suspect item.

[TomsSVX]

Trevor... digging up old news because Earl now has the car and he needs to fix this problem too.... Ricochet was having the EXACT same issue with his car when it was here. Endless troubleshooting left me hanging again. What do u think of the EGR or one or more of the components gone bad?? It would explain the at speed issue in a sense... looking for a second opinion here

Tom

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Trevor... digging up old news because Earl now has the car and he needs to fix this problem too.... Ricochet was having the EXACT same issue with his car when it was here. Endless troubleshooting left me hanging again. What do u think of the EGR or one or more of the components gone bad?? It would explain the at speed issue in a sense... looking for a second opinion here

Tom

Tom,

You say, “Ricochet was having the EXACT same issue with his car when it was here.” Could it be the air ?

Unfortunately to date you have taken little notice of my advice. Refer posts below extracted from this thread:-

Post No. 5 -----There has been a case reported where the plug wires/connections were at fault. This is not so expected, as the leads are not a HT item.

Not hard to check them for continuity, but make sure that you give them a wriggle and shake while doing so. If this does fix things, give the prize to Chris and the network.

N.B.--------There was/is no confirmation that this possibility was checked. ---------

Post No. 14 ------ The best/cheapest/easiest test, will be to solidly bridge the ignition switch and observe the result.

Post No. 21 -----My intent was to save you some frustration, if you decided to proceed down this path. The problem could exist even, though the lights do not flicker, given the possible time delay.

In the event that you wish to proceed, you could hot wire from battery positive to of fuse No. 18, so as to provide a parallel direct feed to the ignition switched circuitry. In the circumstances, you will have to leave a link in place during test runs over a period.

I suggest that you make up a lead fitted with a clip which can be attached/detached from the battery and incorporating a 10 -15 amp in line fuse, then insert some strands with fuse 18. Make certain the circuit is complete with the ignition switch off, and you will be in business.

Be assured that this will be much simpler than messing about with the ignition switch and associated wiring.

Post No. 25 ----- Bridging the ignition will get number one suspect out of the way. Don't be tempted to grope about. Science is your friend.

Post No. 39 ----- Take note of this, my previous post, ( No. 25) before deciding to spend time and or money on replacing the ignition switch.

Post No. 41 ------ “Is the switch easy to install? Maybe I could do it myself.” No. Read my posts which cover a simple fool proof test.

Post No. 43 ------ If you follow my instructions there is NO possible way that you can get into any trouble, even if you make a blue (mistake). A continuity check without passing current is next to useless, as both Beav and myself have many times pointed out.

Post No. 45 ----- The switch could exhibit next to zero resistance, unless it is passing significant current and a fault will not show up. An ohmmeter is useless in these circumstances. Check my locker for further info.

Post No. 48 ----- You have installed a switch contrary to my advice and your ignition circuit remains a suspect item.

--------------------------------------

First, refer No. 5 above. This is important to check carefully.

Second, refer No. 48 above. There are endless possibilities in respect of a faulty connection, and not only in the ignition circuit. You have a needle in a haystack. I would be looking for something damaged or messed up by someone, in particular anything to do with after market stuff.

The main relay could be intermittent. As this a plug in component it would be worth a check via substitution.

The plug connected diode in the feed the from the ignition switch to the main relay, could be faulty. Again a substitution check is on.

Fuse no 16 and or socket could be corroded/faulty as could several other associated fuses, e.g. 2, 4, 16, 23.

The igniter or associated connections could be faulty.

An injector circuit could be faulty.

I am not close to the problem and am not sure how/where a speed issue is involved. But it would appear from what has been stated that the cause is likely to electrical, rather than on the fuel side of the spectrum, because of its spasmodic nature. On this basis, and from the bottom of the planet, I would rule out the EGR.

Trevor.

[huck369]

Without reading through this whole thread, my first thought is it has a coil going bad, or bad connection to one of the coils....

Sorry if it's already been covered....but that is the first thing I'd check...

[Landshark]

my SVX had a cylinder#1 misfire on cold starts when i would go up a hill (going home from work). if i let it warm up a minute or two it wouldn't do it. i replaced coil, plugs, #1 injector, and a bunch of other stuff, but no dice.

it wasn't a major problem by any means, as the car was fine after its initial misfire hiccup (if it did happen), but it always kinda bothered me.

i won't say it made me want to sell it, but it probably made my decision to get a new car a little easier.

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Tom,

You say, “Ricochet was having the EXACT same issue with his car when it was here.” Could it be the air ?

Unfortunately to date you have taken little notice of my advice. Refer posts below extracted from this thread:-

Post No. 5 -----There has been a case reported where the plug wires/connections were at fault. This is not so expected, as the leads are not a HT item.

Not hard to check them for continuity, but make sure that you give them a wriggle and shake while doing so. If this does fix things, give the prize to Chris and the network.

N.B.--------There was/is no confirmation that this possibility was checked. ---------

Post No. 14 ------ The best/cheapest/easiest test, will be to solidly bridge the ignition switch and observe the result.

Post No. 21 -----My intent was to save you some frustration, if you decided to proceed down this path. The problem could exist even, though the lights do not flicker, given the possible time delay.

In the event that you wish to proceed, you could hot wire from battery positive to of fuse No. 18, so as to provide a parallel direct feed to the ignition switched circuitry. In the circumstances, you will have to leave a link in place during test runs over a period.

I suggest that you make up a lead fitted with a clip which can be attached/detached from the battery and incorporating a 10 -15 amp in line fuse, then insert some strands with fuse 18. Make certain the circuit is complete with the ignition switch off, and you will be in business.

Be assured that this will be much simpler than messing about with the ignition switch and associated wiring.

Post No. 25 ----- Bridging the ignition will get number one suspect out of the way. Don't be tempted to grope about. Science is your friend.

Post No. 39 ----- Take note of this, my previous post, ( No. 25) before deciding to spend time and or money on replacing the ignition switch.

Post No. 41 ------ “Is the switch easy to install? Maybe I could do it myself.” No. Read my posts which cover a simple fool proof test.

Post No. 43 ------ If you follow my instructions there is NO possible way that you can get into any trouble, even if you make a blue (mistake). A continuity check without passing current is next to useless, as both Beav and myself have many times pointed out.

Post No. 45 ----- The switch could exhibit next to zero resistance, unless it is passing significant current and a fault will not show up. An ohmmeter is useless in these circumstances. Check my locker for further info.

Post No. 48 ----- You have installed a switch contrary to my advice and your ignition circuit remains a suspect item.

--------------------------------------

First, refer No. 5 above. This is important to check carefully.

Second, refer No. 48 above. There are endless possibilities in respect of a faulty connection, and not only in the ignition circuit. You have a needle in a haystack. I would be looking for something damaged or messed up by someone, in particular anything to do with after market stuff.

The main relay could be intermittent. As this a plug in component it would be worth a check via substitution.

The plug connected diode in the feed the from the ignition switch to the main relay, could be faulty. Again a substitution check is on.

Fuse no 16 and or socket could be corroded/faulty as could several other associated fuses, e.g. 2, 4, 16, 23.

The igniter or associated connections could be faulty.

An injector circuit could be faulty.

I am not close to the problem and am not sure how/where a speed issue is involved. But it would appear from what has been stated that the cause is likely to electrical, rather than on the fuel side of the spectrum, because of its spasmodic nature. On this basis, and from the bottom of the planet, I would rule out the EGR.

Trevor.

Trevor, again.... I am not near the car... it is now across the country and i have not seen it since. All this must be done by the new owner in order to diagnose. I was merely running an idea that I think is logical.

Tom

[ensteele]

Thanks Tom. I will do some checking and trouble shooting with the switch. As far as the coils, he did replace 3 or 4 of them. I do have some extras ones, and could replace others if needed.

The hicup did occur as I drove it home yesterday. Maybe about 18 times over 125 miles. It is very unsettling. It drives like a dream except for that.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Landshark

my SVX had a cylinder#1 misfire on cold starts when i would go up a hill (going home from work). if i let it warm up a minute or two it wouldn't do it. i replaced coil, plugs, #1 injector, and a bunch of other stuff, but no dice.

it wasn't a major problem by any means, as the car was fine after its initial misfire hiccup (if it did happen), but it always kinda bothered me.

i won't say it made me want to sell it, but it probably made my decision to get a new car a little easier.

In view of the fact that engine loading is a factor, surely this must relate to poor ignition of the fuel charge. Lack of HT voltage, Faulty coil, faulty igniter or leads or faulty plugs, are the obvious possible culprits.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by ensteele

Thanks Tom. I will do some checking and trouble shooting with the switch. As far as the coils, he did replace 3 or 4 of them. I do have some extras ones, and could replace others if needed.

The hicup did occur as I drove it home yesterday. Maybe about 18 times over 125 miles. It is very unsettling. It drives like a dream except for that.

Earl,

Please read through the complete thread and trouble shoot accordingly. Simply shooting in the dark, will frustrate you up the wall.