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#1
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Cambelt time.........
Guys and girls
It's time for a service and to change the cam belt. I'm wondering how difficult the cam belt change is to do at home, and whether I should be thinking of changing the waterpump at the same time ?? The car is a '96 UK model and has 93k on the clock. I've only done one other cam belt before, on a four cylinder, but as a novice that only took me a couple of hours. So far we've paid for servicing, but apart from getting the damn undertray off how difficult can it be ?? So do I change the belt on my driveway ?? Do I pay someone to do it with the service ?? Do I change the water pump as well, or "if it ain't broke don't mess with it" ?? What are your thoughts ??
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Only the depth varies.............. |
#2
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Phil,
If you've done any timing belt before the SVX is a breeze... So do it in your driveway. I'd recommend going ahead and replacing the water pump, as it will only be about 10 extra 10mm bolts while you have the t-belt off. Both of these things are pretty easy if you have any mechanical ability. Just get the timing marks up before you take off the old belt.
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
#3
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Given that we have a non-interference engine, is there any reason not to wait until it breaks before replacing it?
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#4
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Quote:
Opinions apparently differ on the non-interference issue, tho' I've not read of anyone here suffering valve damage upon having a timing belt break. (Then again, I've not gone looking for such news, either.) dcb |
#5
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The valves should never contact the piston. If both the intake and exhaust valves both opened at the same time that's another story (VERY unlikely).
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#6
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Quote:
dcb |
#7
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It's true. There have been discussions regarding whether or not our engines are interference or not. It was concluded that the valves could touch each other but the valve would never hit the piston.
You will never find a thread here where someone has to replace a valve as a result of their SVX timing belt breaking.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#8
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The two cams in the EG33 head are tied together by a pair of gears, the Timing belt only turns the lower (exhaust) cam, which throught the gears turn the upper(intake) cam, so if the t-belt breaks, the valves CAN'T come in contact, as they stay in time with each other through the gears....the gears themselves would have to break to let the valve hit each other...
Why Subaru didn't use this design on thier other DOHC motors is beyond me
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
#9
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Here ya go here is...
a good summary of the situation...
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...threadid=11429 Either way its not hard of a job at all just make sure you have the tensioner all the way over and down good or else it will keep moving and youll be thrown off by a mark or two...(This took me a couple of tries before realizing )Dont worry if you pull the pin and it isn't right and you dont have a vice to push the pin back in just go to home depot in the tools department and use there vices they have there. Word of caution you are placing EXTREME pressure on the so make sure its in the vice properly. You'll see if when you have to compress the pin. |
#10
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Finally..........
the cambelt arrived !! Don't ask, it's a long story............ but it did come from Subaru parts dot com via a colleague in the US, so at least the price was reasonable !!
So now I have to pluck up the courage to do the job (car now has nearly 103K miles........) Is there anything I *really* need to be aware of, be careful about, that is a real PITA when doing this ?? I'll be using a friend's fully equipped 'shop, so a two post lift, air tools and the blue-tipped hot knife / heat source will be available.............. 1. How easy/difficult do I expect the crank pulley to be ?? 2. Do I need to make some clamps to hold the cam gears in place when the belt is off ?? 3. Do I need to get the cam gears off assuming the seals aren't leaking ?? 4. This damn hydraulic tensioner needs to come off to compress it right ?? 5. Anything caught anybody else out while doing this job, as it's the wife's main car it can't be incapacitated for too long............ Any help would be appreciated !! Phil.
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Only the depth varies.............. |
#11
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Crank pulley will be the hardest part of the job, but really if you've ever done a timing belt on anything...the SVX will be a breeze, as it's a very simple set-up...hard to mess up.
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Huck Subaru Ambassador 92 SVX LS-Tour Magnaflow Exhaust, 5-Spd-AWD 88 XT6 AWD 5-Speed "Bride of FrankenWedge" 15 Impreza Premium Sedan 15 Crosstrek XV 5-Speed My 5-Speed "How-To" Write-up 1976 Pontiac Firebird Formula Current Count of Subaru's Owned.... "70" |
#12
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Just be patient when compressing the tensioner.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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IMHO you might consider...
...replacing the crank pulley/harmonic balancer at this time.
Although a little expensive it can wreak havoc on your belts and timing cover if (when?) it blows. Take it from me. Do a SEARCH on crank/harmonic balancer for more about this. Re-sealing the oil pump, replacing the 9 yr. old crank & cam seals is also a good idea while you already have the front covers, etc. off. If you are seeing any leaks in these areas it is almost foolish not to do so. Also the little water pump hoses. Sounds like I'm more than willing to spend your dough but if you get all the work done at once you s/b good to go for another decade, or so! Cheers!
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' 92 SVX @ 185K ' 91 420SEL @ 223K! ' 88 420SEL I. @ 178K (what a buy!) ' 87 F250 @ 180K ' 93 ZX-11D @ 29K ' 93 SC400 @ 93K 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6.6K (Brynhild) Y2K NightHawk 250 @ 1,500 miles ' 88 420SEL II. @ 208K '85 F150 @ 135K |
#15
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Any special tools or further teardown required to do the front crank and cam seals and oil pump seals?
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
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