I'd like everyone to look at this ->

[NikFu S.]

I don't understand how the breaker bar can reach the ground. Do you mean through the engine bay or over the fender?

[NikFu S.]

So apparently the pulley is not rated to handle the SVX. It was custom fabbed. As I stated in the other thread, it weighs less than a pound.
Not worth it.

[immortal_suby]

The breaker bar method works - it seems sketchy - but it works. I used a breaker bar with a long metal tube on it and then rested it on a 2x4 on the inside fenderwall by the battery.

That pulley is very bad - take it off as soon as you can. If you want lightweight and oem size, I got one from Dayle@motorsports warehouse that fit very tightly on the crank and doesnt wobble at all. He should still have some more of them.

[svxsubaru1]

Yeah the or you could take out the radiator and let the breaker bar set on the radiator support, it works great. One time i did it and the engine started took the bolt all the way off.

[NikFu S.]

Ok it's learning time.
The pulley was too weak and the notch it sat in, I guess you could say eroded. Structural failure.
The wobbling did in fact cause it to loosen, which was the cause of the clicking sound. My mechanically inclined sister's father removed it without effort and I quote "It's like turning a loose bolt," he said.
It did tighten up a litle but a better pulley is needed as most everyone stated.

So I reiterate, don't install a super-light underdrived anodized aluminum pulley. It's for looks only.

Evidence:

[SubaSteevo]

Originally posted by NikFu S.
It did tighten up a litle but a better pulley is needed as most everyone stated.

Stop driving it and get a real pulley. How much is "a little" (actually "a litle" )? The pulley is supposed to be torqued to atleast 125 ft/lb, less than that and it'll come off.

[want-a-fast-svx]

Couldnt this just be something as simple as it never being tight enough in the first place???Were you able to put the torque on it w/o knowing how to do it properly???Did you check it with a torque wrench? Im guessing it was never tightened down to spec, and as a result it started to deteriorate from having "play"..
But i dont know all that much thats just my guess.Either way next time tighten that thing down to spec.

[Landshark]

Originally posted by want-a-fast-svx
Couldnt this just be something as simple as it never being tight enough in the first place???Were you able to put the torque on it w/o knowing how to do it properly???Did you check it with a torque wrench? Im guessing it was never tightened down to spec, and as a result it started to deteriorate from having "play"..
But i dont know all that much thats just my guess.Either way next time tighten that thing down to spec.

[Motorsport-SVX]

Originally posted by NikFu S.
Ok it's learning time.
The pulley was too weak and the notch it sat in, I guess you could say eroded. Structural failure.
The wobbling did in fact cause it to loosen, which was the cause of the clicking sound. My mechanically inclined sister's father removed it without effort and I quote "It's like turning a loose bolt," he said.
It did tighten up a litle but a better pulley is needed as most everyone stated.

So I reiterate, don't install a super-light underdrived anodized aluminum pulley. It's for looks only.

Evidence:

to come out and say "dont do a pulley" etc just because you had a problem. If you recall even MANY of the OE pulley's start to walk and seperate causing the same problem. If you buy a good quaility part thats been properly treated and hardend, with correct tolerances, and Installed 100% properly, chances are it wont happen to anyone else. We do offer the factory size pulley, lighter etc but 1 pcs also which may be a good choice.
How long ago was that red pulley installed? or how many miles ago?

[NikFu S.]

Originally posted by BurgundyBeast

How much is "a little" (actually "a litle" )?

I dunno.

Originally posted by want-a-fast-svx
Couldnt this just be something as simple as it never being tight enough in the first place???Were you able to put the torque on it w/o knowing how to do it properly???Did you check it with a torque wrench? Im guessing it was never tightened down to spec, and as a result it started to deteriorate from having "play"..

I'm sure it was tightened to at least that much. Edgo put all his 195lb muscle into tightening it down and I even gave it a tug afterwards.
The pulley (if you look where the screwdriver is pointing) ERODED. It kind of melted. The metal was not strong enough to handle the power so says Danny of Shattered Skull Racing, master grease monkey and engine guru of well repute.

Originally posted by Motorsport-SVX

to come out and say "dont do a pulley" etc just because you had a problem. If you recall even MANY of the OE pulley's start to walk and seperate causing the same problem. If you buy a good quaility part thats been properly treated and hardend, with correct tolerances, and Installed 100% properly, chances are it wont happen to anyone else. We do offer the factory size pulley, lighter etc but 1 pcs also which may be a good choice.
How long ago was that red pulley installed? or how many miles ago?

Well my stock pulley was fine for 11 years. This aluminum one (remember its a weaker metal than stock) wore out in only 7 months.
I don't know if your pulley is reliable. I've never used it. I'm not saying it's bad. I did however, state that mine is custom fabbed, and thusly unique. So keeping this in mind let's assume if a crank pulley is manufactured as mine was, and used in a similar way, it too will meet an early end.

Let me emphasize yet again it's made from a WEAK SUPER LIGHT ALUMINUM. How weak, I didn't know until now. I'm sure the ROOT OF THE PROBLEM rested solely in the little notch that's supposed to catch and lock with the crank bolt. Imagine driving around with only one bolt holding your wheels on. That **** will break.

If this one part of the pulley is processed densely and rated to handle the inertial force and heat combined, I'm sure the rest can be made however light one wants.

Evaluation: the pulley was not rated to spec and that is probably the reason it was sold privately. I got jooked.
Never again.
And neither will you.
Because now we know.
And we all know what knowing is.

[SubaSteevo]

Originally posted by NikFu S.

And we all know what knowing is.

Half the battle

[want-a-fast-svx]

Originally posted by NikFu S.

I'm sure it was tightened to at least that much. Edgo put all his 195lb muscle into tightening it down and I even gave it a tug afterwards.
The pulley (if you look where the screwdriver is pointing) ERODED. It kind of melted. The metal was not strong enough to handle the power so says Danny of Shattered Skull Racing, master grease monkey and engine guru of well repute.

Just for my own knowledge I would like to ask some of the many many extremely smart individuals of this board if this makes sense? If the pulley was tightened down to spec and therefore there was no play, how would the notch not be suffiecient enough? Not trying to start anything here just purely curious. It just doesnt make sense to me. Especially since you didnt check it with a torque wrench.

[Motorsport-SVX]

If his bolt came loose than it would not matter who's pulley it was it would
do the same thing. If the pulley he had was not anodized than the steel key
on a raw alum keyway over time would wholler itself out. If the bore of the
pulley was not tight on the crank then it would wobble slightly in time
causing it to fail. We try to prevent these things by anodizing the part and
holding tight tollerances on the bore.

[Landshark]

Originally posted by want-a-fast-svx
Just for my own knowledge I would like to ask some of the many many extremely smart individuals of this board if this makes sense? If the pulley was tightened down to spec and therefore there was no play, how would the notch not be suffiecient enough? Not trying to start anything here just purely curious. It just doesnt make sense to me. Especially since you didnt check it with a torque wrench.

a) the pulley was not torqued to spec
b) the pulley hole was too big for the crank (wrong pulley)
c) the pulley was a piece of crap to begin with (bad manufacturing)
d) all of the above

[immortal_suby]

Originally posted by Motorsport-SVX
. We try to prevent these things by anodizing the part and
holding tight tollerances on the bore.

I can vouch for Dayles pulley on this - it was an extremely tight fit -