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  #16  
Old 08-14-2007, 06:16 AM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonSTOP_service
I've got rust in the same spots on my doors. My rear fenders around the wheel wells are gettin pretty gnarly too.
Unfortunately, as Benebob alluded, those rust sport aren't "on" your doors, they're IN your doors. And I agree with his advice: If you want your SVX to last, park it in wintertime and buy a beater. The damage that's already been done is going to be expensive to repair properly, and it's gonna worsen very rapidly if you keep slogging through salty slush.

Regarding the use of kerosene, I recall hearing of "underbody oiling" when I lived in Vermont. Probably not a bad idea, especially for inside doors and quarter-panels.

dcb
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  #17  
Old 08-14-2007, 06:55 AM
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I mentioned this in another post a while back. The Canadian Automobile Association (of which I am not a member) only recommends "Rust Check" or "Krown" undercoating.

I have had my SVX Rust Checked every year since new and aside from one tiny spot of surface rust caused by a chip there was no rust on my car when I had it painted and had new under body parts installed last winter. The stuff really does work. It's hard on the rubber parts like the weather strips, but so are ozone and the sun. It actually drives out the moisture as well as coating everything with rust inhibitors. It works on old cars as well as new.

It only cost $100.00 each year to apply and is worth it's weight in gold.

Believe me I know. There is no place worse than here for corroding cars. Tons of salt on the roads in winter, constant winter temperatures right around the freeze thaw point and very salty air from the ocean.
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  #18  
Old 08-14-2007, 08:53 AM
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mohrds mohrds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcarrb
Regarding the use of kerosene, I recall hearing of "underbody oiling" when I lived in Vermont. Probably not a bad idea, especially for inside doors and quarter-panels.

dcb
When I store my Mustangs, the underbody and engine compartment gets sprayed with used motor oil. (Don't tell Al about me either). Works wonders.

For inside doors, fenders, quarters, I haven't found anything better than Premiere's ZR Rustproofing. It is runny so it crawls into all the seams, Then it dries with a wax-like finish. Unfortunately I'm on my last can and Premiere seems to be out of business. They used to be based in Cleveland, OH but I can't find a listing for them anymore.

Doug
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Last edited by mohrds; 08-14-2007 at 12:57 PM. Reason: Spelling
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  #19  
Old 08-14-2007, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohrds

For inside doors, fenders, quarters, I haven't found anything better than Premiere's KR Rustproofing. It is runny so it crawls into all the seams, Then it dries with a wax-like finish. Unfortunately I'm on my last can and Premiere seems to be out of business. They used to be based in Cleveland, OH but I can't find a listing for them anymore.

Doug
Yeah, I think they're out of business too just like Rusty Jones and all of his snake oil friends. It wasn't that they were all bad, just franchised and very inconsistant, then you add on the complaints, better car finishes and killed reputations and business was over. Besides, I don't think they'd pass the muster enviromentally today anyways. Remember, subies rust from the inside out, if you see a spot on the car, you're already terminal. Granted you can slow down the death with chemo but it'll still be the likely cod.
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  #20  
Old 08-14-2007, 11:28 AM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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There are also Electronic Rust Prevention Systems that connect to your battery and uses electrostatic corrosion control by capacitive coupling.

I first saw this on "Two Guys Garage" on the Speed Channel and they were very impressed with it. It prevents new rust and significantly slows down the effects of existing rust. These systems run less than $200.00.

The Counteractrust website is very comprehensive and informative.

http://www.counteractrust.com


http://www.counteractrust.com/counteract.htm


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Last edited by svxcess; 08-14-2007 at 05:11 PM.
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  #21  
Old 08-14-2007, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benebob
Yeah, I think they're out of business too just like Rusty Jones and all of his snake oil friends. It wasn't that they were all bad, just franchised and very inconsistant, then you add on the complaints, better car finishes and killed reputations and business was over. Besides, I don't think they'd pass the muster enviromentally today anyways. Remember, subies rust from the inside out, if you see a spot on the car, you're already terminal. Granted you can slow down the death with chemo but it'll still be the likely cod.
It wasn't a chain store. Premiere was a auto industry supplier. They only sold to businesses and had sales reps (My rep was a hottie). They carried fasteners, sandpaper, chemicals, etc. It was actually called ZR Weld-Through Rustproofing now that I think about it. When you welded on a quarter panel or other stuff, you spray the stuff on, weld and it runs into the seams. I think the ZR stood for "Zinc Rich". It flowed in between fold joints on door panels when you were done skinning it, ran into the wheel well rolls. Good stuff.

I think I may have found a similar product:
http://www.tat-co.com/product.asp?ID=154

Doug
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Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip
1992 LS Touring (6/91)
Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler
1994 LSi (4/93)
Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction.

1969 Mustang GT Convertible
1970 Mustang Convertible
2000 Ford Excursion
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  #22  
Old 08-14-2007, 04:40 PM
gmaxum gmaxum is offline
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Purchased all the garnish (cladding )holders today and a bunch of clips - $100. Before I install those new holders I will coat them with :

"LPS 3 heavy-duty rust inhibitor protects by leaving a soft, self-healing, waxy film that resists moisture. Protects up to two years, stops rust and corrosion, provides anti-seize coating, provides non-sling lubrication, 312 grams."

This is the neatest stuff. Spray on wax. Another good rust coating is anti-seize lubricant (Nickle -Coat, Copper-Coat) slathered all over what you are trying to protect. I always make a habit to reassemble anything I've taken apart with anti-seize too.
Another great product from LPS is silicon spray - I douse all rubber parts with it.

I feel really good about getting under all the side cladding and doing some cleaning - it has bothered me from the first day I bought the car and wondering what was underneath it.
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  #23  
Old 08-15-2007, 06:54 AM
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From speaking with body shop guys around here, I'd stay clear of the wax type products. (I have that type on my PT Cruiser) When a crack develops in the wax after it's been on a while and dried somewhat, moisture seeps in and gets trapped thus creating a perfect habitat for corrosion.
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2007, 09:38 AM
gwarusee gwarusee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVX_MY_BABY
From speaking with body shop guys around here, I'd stay clear of the wax type products. (I have that type on my PT Cruiser) When a crack develops in the wax after it's been on a while and dried somewhat, moisture seeps in and gets trapped thus creating a perfect habitat for corrosion.
Ill have to second that. I would skip the wax and just keep it simple. Coat the retainer strips with a few coats of rustoleum or por15.
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  #25  
Old 10-17-2010, 11:15 AM
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Re: SVX rust weakness

Dug this up with the winter coming. My car is protected on the outside with Collinite but a good undercoating would make me feel better about driving in the nasty upstate NY winters. Krown looks like good stuff but there are only dealers in Canada! I don't want to drive to Toronto to get my car coated. Then again, maybe it would make a nice road trip?
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  #26  
Old 10-17-2010, 12:16 PM
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Re: SVX rust weakness

Having spent its entire life in Metro Cleveland, my SVX had rust in all the usual places. Two years ago, I had all of the rust cut out with new metal welded in its place. So far so good.
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  #27  
Old 12-16-2019, 02:10 PM
2times4 2times4 is offline
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Re: SVX rust weakness

I have gone through this rust deal years ago. I found the trim bolts were the weak link and had to weld washers onto the doors where the bolt holes rusted out. A little filling and good to go. I also used the double sided tape to seal off the top of the trim from water. However since my attachment strips were shot I just took some strips of steel and welded bolt pins to them and made my own.
In front of the rear wheels is another bad spot along with the sunroof drain tray. My 95 is now rust free after I found that last one.
I took off my rear bumper off this week to build an integrated hitch. I looks like it will be really easy to do and only have the receiver showing when it's done. If anyone is interested in building this type of hitch, or needs help getting their bumper off, let me know. I'll post pictures when I get it done.

95 SVX 111,000 miles
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