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cripes...
*sigh* while exploring my engine bay this evening, i believe i may have found the root of at least some of my problems. there's a nice big crack in the manifold interface/injector plug/expensive hunk of metal part. it's part number five in this diagram -----> intake manifold diagram the section that has the crack is the part where the '5' is pointing to. it encompasses the whole front half of it...right underneath the place where the front flange bolt screws into. this isn't something the dealer should have messed around with when putting in my new engine, right? b/c the whole rough idle thing started after they put the engine in...and i believe the crack got larger sometime tonight b/c i have never noticed it before. basically, if i don't have my foot on the gas, the whole engine shakes and dramatically bounces the rpms (before it wasn't so bad and i could reduce the severity by turning on my a/c). anyways, sorry this is so long...there's really no way to repair something like this, is there? i believe it's covered under my warranty thing...but they're just a pain in the rear to deal with...oh well. anyone ever had anything like this happen to them???
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#2
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Re: cripes...
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Srmifer, There are shops that can weld aluminum. Check them out in your area. This may be a solution. If you do this make sure that you pick an experienced shop. Don't go for the cheapest. Good Luck.
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#3
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Re: Re: cripes...
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~andrew |
#4
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Remove collector cover.
Disconnect throttle and cruise control cables. Disconnect engine harness connectors. Remove female harness connectors from bracket Disconnect auxillary air control valve electrical connector. Disconnect two (2) coolant hoses from throttle chamber. Disconnect auxillary air control valve hose from throttle body. Disconnect PCV valve hose from valve. Remove R.H. PCV valve from valve cover. Disconnect EGR control hoses from intake manifold. Remove EGR pipe cover and EGR pipe. Disconnect power steering switch electrical connector. Disconnect power brake booster hose from intake manifold. Disconnect fuel hoses from fittings at fuel rail. Remove drive belt cover and drive belts. Disconnect alternator "B"/"+" connector from alternator. Remove alternator harness cover fastener. Remove alternator. Remove A/C belt idler pulley. Remove A/C bracket fasteners and move barcket and compressor foward to facilitate removal of intake manifold fasteners. Remove intake manifold fasteners and remove manifold (with all credit to beav for these destructions) see post http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...&threadid=3641 edit: I am a mostly grown man but if I looked under the hood and saw a crack in the intake manifold or block I am 99.9% sure I would break down and cry. Good luck and I hope you get back up and running soon.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. Last edited by immortal_suby; 08-06-2002 at 07:21 PM. |
#5
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I would have to agree with immortal suby on how I might react to the same situation. I don't think that I would handle it very well at all.
Good luck with your project.
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#6
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#7
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so was the crack there before they......
installed the new engine? did these guys not inspect it for you? jesus? i would be pissed off!!!
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1994 SVX, true dual Magnaflow exhaust, K&N filter, 17" Enkei RS6 wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 225/45/17 rubber, zinc plated cross-drilled rotors with yellow painted brake calipers. B&M tranny cooler rated at 19,000 GVW. GC springs and Koni strut inserts installed and the car is lowered two inches all the way around!! "Too much fun to drive!" |
#8
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Re: so was the crack there before they......
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#9
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you have got to go and have them fix it.
how could it be your fault? didnt they give you at least give you a 30 day warranty on the car? when they dropped my engine in i at least got a 90 day warranty.
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1994 SVX, true dual Magnaflow exhaust, K&N filter, 17" Enkei RS6 wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 225/45/17 rubber, zinc plated cross-drilled rotors with yellow painted brake calipers. B&M tranny cooler rated at 19,000 GVW. GC springs and Koni strut inserts installed and the car is lowered two inches all the way around!! "Too much fun to drive!" |
#10
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Re: you have got to go and have them fix it.
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#11
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hell yes i would mention it.
if you have the damn thing warrantied and they did a poor job it is your duty to have them fix it. not to mention you should not be responsible for repairing a car that was delivered to you damaged.
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1994 SVX, true dual Magnaflow exhaust, K&N filter, 17" Enkei RS6 wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 225/45/17 rubber, zinc plated cross-drilled rotors with yellow painted brake calipers. B&M tranny cooler rated at 19,000 GVW. GC springs and Koni strut inserts installed and the car is lowered two inches all the way around!! "Too much fun to drive!" |
#12
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that crack was the problem. i got frustrated last night while trying to pull the part off, so i just put it all back together and thought about what i could do. first thing i tried (which was rather stupid), but i moved everything meltable out of the way and tried to see if i could braze it while still attached to the car. it spreads all of the heat throughout the manifold...anything touching it that's aluminum. i think i'd have to sit here for one hour heating it. scrap that idea...then i got out the jb weld for a temp fix...let it dry overnight...took the car out today. and guess what?! no more shaking, no more bouncing rpms, and it didn't sound like a damn diesel anymore! the loudest parts in that engine bay are now just the belts. so after trying everything else to fix it, this is the problem...now that's it's almost two months after i got my car back, i have to convince the subaru people that they screwed up and i just thought i'd tell them now. lol...in hindsight, i think this is the reason they wanted to replace my 02 sensors b/c it was shaking on them...you think they'd try to figure out why it really was having problems when replacing the sensors didn't fix it hey, sorry these posts of mine are so long...i just kinda ramble on.
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