SVX Network Forums Live Chat! SVX or Subaru Links Old Lockers Photo Post How-To Documents Message Archive SVX Shop Search |
IRC users: |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Obstacle to removing ignition
First time posting. This web site has been an invaluable resource for my much loved/hated SVX.
Today while out running errands my key decided it no longer wanted to come out of the ignition cylinder. It would stick in the ACC position. Upon returning home I attempted to remove key by manipulating the emergency lock release knob under the steering column. This did nothing. I then removed the top half of the plastic collar which gave me access to the brass "pin" that allowed me to slide out the cylinder and remove the key. I'm hoping a worn out key is the issue. From playing around with the cylinder it is apparent that the inner mechanism that turns is not clearing the "stopper" when the key is pushed in at the ACC position. I hope I explained that clearly enough. I'm hoping the worn out ridges of the old key are the reason why the inner mechanism doesn't seem to have the clearance to reach it's desired height. While removing the cylinder I noticed the security bolts had become significantly loose. So I figure as long as I have part of the steering column disassembled I might as well go the full length and replace the loose security bolts with allen heads. My issue is removing the metal cover over the bottom of the column. The 2 bolts closest to the front of the car are frozen. I was hoping someone will have some sage advice for removing these little b@st@rds. I've already soaked them in a rust penetrator. Any help would be appreciated!! Last edited by JonDick; 07-10-2005 at 08:35 PM. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
These threads might help you out
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...stuck+ignition http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...stuck+ignition Welcome to the forum!
__________________
Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the links. I had already run across them. I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is and how to fix it. The metal plate is hampering my attempt to get at the ignition assembly and remove it. The issue is definitely with the lock cylinder and not with any of the electrical on the tranny side. If push comes to shove and I end up stripping out the two bolts I'm having trouble with it doesn't seem like it would be an imposiible situation to cut the metal plate out of there.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Half way home. One of the two bolts has been removed on sheer determination. The one closest to the ignition side is beginning to strip. I'm hoping a night of rust penetrator and a larger screw driver will get me the rest of the way there. Does anyone have any recommended approaches for the security bolts once I gain access to them?
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Same
If you still need a recomendation.......
I had the same problem with the little screws. Even when I found a screwdriver that fit the head perfectly it would tend to strip or slip out when I applied pressure. I finally did it with a screw driver that has a hex fitting just below the handle. Then, by pushing upward on the screwdriver as hard as I could, I used a crescent wrench on the hex and turned the screwdriver. It worked for both screws. It seems you get a more uniform pressure in the right direction by doing this. Lee
__________________
SVXx2 92 SVX LS-L Silver 92 SVX LS-L Burgundy (structurally challenged with 2792 miles) 96 SVX LSi Red 92 SVX LS Pearl (Parts) 01 F150 4X4 Red (+6 with other members of the family) FREEDOM IS NOT FREE |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Metal plate is off and the ignition is removed. Thanks for the recommendation, lhopp77. A new key cut using the VIN solved all my problems. I've got replacement security bolts on the way from subaruparts.com. It's always a d@mn good feeling to sucessfully complete a job the dealer would have ripped you off to do.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I would skip the security bolts and go with straight allen head bolts if I were you. They're more trouble than they're worth, especially if the ignition switch develops problems in the future.
KuoH Quote:
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I've been lurking here for ages. Had the same problem as JonDick, key wouldn't turn from Acc to Lock, although it had been working perfectly up to that point. Checked the forums, saw this post. After much wiggling, the key finally slid out while still in the Acc position (probably not a good thing, that). Anyways, took the old key to a locksmith, had them make me a copy by the codes (although he even said it didn't look that worn, but I said to try it anyways). $12 later, everything works perfectly. I was thinking it was the transmission, or the shifter, or the ignition itself, but figured I'd try the cheap solution since it seemed to work for people here, glad I did!
|
|
|