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#16
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
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Switch the multimeter to the continuity position (or 200 or 2k), you will see this reading in the multimeter screen: 1. Connect the multimeter leads to both wires that goes to the window motor. If you still see this reading: 1. the motor is malfunctioning (maybe the motor brushes are worn out,mine had this problem and i replaced them,but it was a real pain in the **s... to get things back together ) If you see something else (mine reads around 1k ohm) your motor may be in working order. If the motor is has continuity, this dont mean that it is working properly,it may be jammed, causing the overload that causes the system to stop, or,in other hand the lifting mechanism itself may be jammed. In this case you can take the motor out and lift the window manually to check if it goes smoothly. If you dont have wire,you can take the battery out of the car and use it close to the door. the multimeter wires are ok for this test. NOTE: You will have to re-program the radio stations if you disconnect the battery. Also the clock, and maybe door lock code if your car is equipped with it.
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95´ Subaru SVX EURO 85' Mercedes 190 2.3-16 86' Mercedes 190E 70' Olds Toronado 98' Renault Chamade 82' Honda Prelude 79' Honda Accord awaiting restomod. 69' Mustang Hardtop 67' Jeep Ford Willys awaiting restoration. 67' IKA Torino Coupe 74' Renault Torino Coupe Last edited by MadMaxSvx; 09-19-2009 at 05:20 PM. |
#17
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
You might just have to yank the motor, then you can hook it up to the original connector and see if the gear spins freely. This will also allow you to inspect and lubricate the regulator assembly. You confirmed voltage to the motor, now you just have to manually test the motor without the regulator attached to narrow it down to either the motor or the regulator assy.
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#18
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
O K where is that smilies thats eating popcorn? I know that doesn't help, but you guys are getting close to the solution, I have worked with widow motor hyjinks before so I know how it goes.........G
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I thimk ther4 I an, what? huh! 03 Baja. 05 Baja turbo 92legacywagon"snow" 94legacywagon"whinny" 84Brat"huey" 92svx"samantha".pearl 92svx"sabastian"4.44 silver 92svx"sabrina".ebony 05legacy gt limited "Moon" blue. 06 Subaru legacy gt limited. |
#19
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
I have everything loose except for those two bolts/nuts screws near the top back of the door. I can't get past those. Can't move 'em out far enough to lift the windows and assembly out. Any tips on sequence of parts removal? I did this before and I can't figure out how I did it. Might have been easier the first time because I may have cut the cable because it was messed up.
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1994 SVX L FWD "The Blue Bullet" |
#20
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
quick update. I got the two top bolts clear of the door edge as in attached pic. How should I proceed from here? Motor is still attached. Window guide toward the front is off and lying inside door. Also unscrewed the two bottom bolts which is how I got the top cleared if that makes sense. I guess what I'm asking is without disconnecting the motor, how can I lift everything out through the top. I don't see how it could possibly squeeze through the top of the door.
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1994 SVX L FWD "The Blue Bullet" Last edited by powerdog; 09-20-2009 at 08:35 AM. |
#21
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
I was looking up the troubleshooting on this the other day. Not for SVX specific but it was within the same years as our SVX and basic troubleshooting had you apply 12 volts to the window motor the window should move up if you reverse the polarity it should go down. If you do this and the window functions properly then atleast you know your problem is elsewhere. The driver's window is a bit harder to figure out though since the other windows have individual switches to help isolate where the problem could be. You make sure you have 12 volts going to your driver's window switch. If you have 12vdc supplied and you also can manually make the motor function it would be your switch assembly that is failing.
FYI -For other windows you verify you have 12vdc going to the drivers switch assembly if you have it going there then you verify you have 12vdc going to the passenger or rear windows switches. If you don't have it going to them then you driver's master switch is failed. If you do have it going to the other window switch positions and the window won't go up or down there then you have to also verify the motor same way as drivers before replacing the switch assembly. This is just from memory so I may have missed a step but it should be pretty close. |
#22
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
So I connected the power and window moved up and down via the switch. like better than ever. So I figured why go further, started to connect it all up, bolted the motor on with one bolt tried raise/lower window again and it's dead. no movement when I press the switch. Huh? MadMaxSvx, I think you're right. motor malfunctioning. Got a 1.3 when I touched the meter probes to the two wires to the motor. I have the entire assembly out, motor, reg and window now. Touch the two probes (meter on ohms) to the connector/wires to motor...get a 1. Touched the motor directly to battery via meter probe wires. Nothing happens with motor. All I get is a very small spark at battery. Clearly motor is not functioning correctly as it did earlier this morning while still in door. I am going to let it sit a while. ALmost ready to bet that when I come back hours later I will get something different.
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1994 SVX L FWD "The Blue Bullet" Last edited by powerdog; 09-20-2009 at 11:34 AM. Reason: brain dead |
#23
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
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This has already been covered.... thanks though. |
#24
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
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#25
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
So-Cal are you frustrated? Not Me!
but when I went directly to battery, should I have connected ground (the whole assembly completely disconnected and out of the car) to something on the car too since that is power source? I didn't do that. just battery terminals to motor (connector) terminals.
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1994 SVX L FWD "The Blue Bullet" Last edited by powerdog; 09-20-2009 at 12:46 PM. |
#26
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
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One thing though that I just thought of..... some motors have to be calibrated exactly to the bottom and top position of the regulator. This means that you would have to manually turn the motor until it stops, then install the window at the topmost position. Then the motor "slack" would be just enough to fully lower the window. My toyota pickup had this issue, im not sure how its designed in the subarus, but its also a possibility of why it would stop and buzz. I havent had to mess with mine yet so i cant say for sure.... |
#27
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Re: here we go again with a stuck driver's side window
Got a used regulator and motor installed. working better than it ever has. no real mechanical or wind noise etc. excellent. Thanks. All is good with the world! Now I wish I could find somebody closer than Tom in WV to do the "other stuff" . Just can't seem to get there. I "want" to pay somebody to get the rest up to snuff. Can you believe that? Of course I'd have to pass on the chest pounding that normally follows a successful "owner implemented repair"
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1994 SVX L FWD "The Blue Bullet" |
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