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#1
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Tensioner pulley bearings - source?
I'd like to replace both tensioner pulley bearings. The p/ns are:
PS tensioner: 6301DU2 A/C tensioner: 6202DU2 I know that Suparuparts has them for around $40 or so but I'd at least try to source just the sealed bearings. A search revealed that this has been discussed before but I didn't find any source. The nearest place is Motion Industries who has them for $17/each or so. Has anyone had any luck at the NAPA type places? I also found them on the 'net at A&W bearigs at a very low cost. Unfortunately, there's a min of $25 to purchase! Removing the A/C pulley bearing was easy but the PS pulley required a little bit more work. I had to ground off the four pop rivets out of the pulley, remove the backing plate and then pop out the bearing. Makes me wonder why the PS pulley doesn't use a simple retaining clip like the A/C pulley! Thanks for any info. Ali '92 LS-L
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
#2
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I was going to replace the bearing in my PS tensioner. I got the bearing from work, but when I saw that the bearing was rivited in I stopped. After I get my PS pump replace if I still have bearing sounds I mite try drilling out the rivits.
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2005 Legacy GT 2002 WRX VF22, Pinks, big TMIC and turbo back 128,*** miles My WRX's Cardomain Page |
#3
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I got the AC idler bearing from Oreilly's for around $10 as I recall, but it cost about $20 to get a shop to press the old one out and the new one in. I don't recall the designation, but it's a standard size and is stamped on the bearing.
KuoH |
#4
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It's good to know that common auto parts store have these bearings. I'll give my local shops a try after work. Of course, I'm NOT including AutoZone since they seem to only have Blingies as of late!
Ali
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
#5
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** update **
Alright, the bearings are inside the pulleys. The old bearings came out and the new bearings went in w/o any issues. Tonight I'll wrap things up and take her for a test spin. I replaced both pulley bearings since I was in there. However, the PS tensioner pulley was in dire shape as compared to the A/C tensioner pulley. The PS one must be getting hit with road grime more easily than the other pulley.
The bearings came from NAPA and they're made my SKF. Let's see how long these lasts! I'll post up some pics in my locker once I remember to download from my camera! Ali
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E Last edited by alia176; 02-10-2005 at 02:28 PM. |
#6
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Re: ** update **
Quote:
dcb |
#7
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Around $35 total for two bearings.
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
#8
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I've uploaded couple of pics of the new bearings and pulleys in my locker. I'd load them up here but I don't know how!
The pop rivits I used are for 1/8" holes and a grip range of 1/8"-1/4". Everything is working great. Most people prolly wouldn't want to go this route but it was a simple CB (cheap bastard) fix. I'm sure I could've bought the same exact bearings for cheaper on the 'net but they seem to have a min $ purchase requirement so I opted for the NAPA bearings. I recommend that you replace both tensioner pulleys even though the PS is the problamatic one due to it's location. The procedure is straightforward. I used a large hex bolt head to hammer out the old bearings. This can be done in a press or a vise, however, since I was going to sacrifice the old bearings anyway, I hammered them out this way . The new bearings were pressed in using a socket in a vise. Total time is about 10 minutes for both. The removal of the PS bearing flange (plate that retains the bearing inside the pulley) required the removal of the old pop rivets. This was a little more tricky. I center punched all four rivits approximately in the center. Then using a small drill bit, made a small impression on each rivet head. Using a drill press is nice here since your work won't try to move on you. Then, I moved to a larger drill bit until most of the rivet material is gone. Just for added insurance, I used a pneumatic die grinder to grind off some more of the material. Afterward, using a small cold chiesel and a hammer, knocked out the old rivets out of the pulley. The diameter of the holes is slightly larger than 1/8" so that's why I chose the 1/8" pop rivets. Hope all this makes sense! Anyway, let me know if there're any questions. Regards, Ali '92
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E Last edited by alia176; 02-12-2005 at 07:00 AM. |
#9
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I also recommend replacing both pulleys at the same time. Mine both failed within 2 months of each other. (1 complete failure, the other noisy)
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
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