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#106
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I had/have the same problems..... strange hunting on cold starts, and rough idle when warm and stopped
I have changed: plugs, O2's, TPS sensor, air filter, added grounds I have cleaned: throttle body, intake ...and none of it really helped. I suspect something to do with either a sensor malfunctioning, some sort of leak in the system, or low output from alternator at idle. I'd love to know the actual pinpoint of it all though. Maybe I'll have my alternator rewound and stuff for higher output... -Sz
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1994 SVX LSi - Black / Beige - 139k miles SOLD! 1999 Chevy Camaro Z28 - Black, 6-speed, hell of a ride. 2004 Chevy Silverado Z71 - Blue LT2 luxury package |
#107
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Hey Sz,
Haven't seen you post in a long time, good to see you round! Two things you did not mention there, the coil packs, or the MAF sensor. In my own case, it was the MAF sensor that fixed the problem, for Gargoyle here, the #3 coil pack was broken. You should run the diagnostic to see what code shows up. If you have everything cleaned up and tightened down, then the likely suspect is a sensor. Check the codes. Should be a method written up in the How-to if you have not done it before. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#108
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"MYSTERIES of the UNIVERSE"...............
I've tried it ALL! Check my old posts .....on the old similar threads...
The thing that seemed to work the best for me.....don't know if it was just coincidental with (almost total [spontaneous]) resolution of the intermittent rough idle on startup (for few minutes only) problem>>>>>>WAS fuel treatment applications: the best were Berryman's ....Redline.....Techron..... SORRY.... NO DEFINITIVE FIX .............. YET! P.S. I should say....no definitive .....DIAGNOSIS ! ! ! !
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Jim 1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13) 2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011) Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme! |
#109
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Hoping for the best !
Just gave up and ordered a new set of coils. My tech says 2 are arcing, and responsible for the weirdness, and at 11 years young guess it's time to bite the bullet before the wet season really wreaks havoc on her driveability. Hope he's right!
Glenn
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"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing" Aaron Burke 1993 25th Anniversary Edition #63 of 301. R.I.P. Rojo 7/24/2008 She saved my life! 1997 Ebony Mica Pearl LSI. BLACKBERRY 1998 5-Spd Legacy GT Wagon in Glacier White: NUBURU 2005 Cadillac STS in Sandstorm Metallic: STORMY Veteran and farthest traveler of 1st SoCal2MuseumsMeet2010. http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?RojoRocket |
#110
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Sputter MANIA 2
HA, I finally got some answers, you guys were helpful in trying, but I ended up going to a different shop, who ended up finding out that it was my cam sensor, my baby runs like normal again. And that Stage two ECUtune Chip, definately worth it, wow. Thanks.
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#111
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Re: Sputter MANIA 2
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Any shop that can check the diagnostics, and has a technician with half a brain, will find your problem and fix it. These cars are complex. But they only look like space ships. It's easy enough to find what makes them run poorly. You've got to.... E..lim....I nate... the negative Accent you ate ... Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl Last edited by svxistentialist; 09-24-2004 at 06:43 PM. |
#112
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i had the same problem (not as bad as some of the rest of you) but my car had a small shudder at idle and then while accelerating from a dead stop the car would slowly crawl to speed and be kinda jerky. acouple weeks later i went out to start the car and it wouldnt start, the battery was dead. so i took it to get the battery and the charging system tested, my alternator is low. i had the battery recharged and the car worked fine, but now my alternator is in worse condition and the battery is very low again and the jerky/sputtering is slowly coming back.
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-Dustin 1992 Ebony LS-L w/191k miles Mods: a few and acouple more 1995 Brilliant Red L/AWD w/154k miles Mods: Stebro catback exhaust, K&N drop in filter, ECUtune ST1v5, 4.44, lots of JDM goodies 1992 Pearly LS-L w/154k miles Sold Mods: 4.11, rust 2008 DGM Legacy spec.B w/245k miles Mods: Cryotune Stage3, VF52, bushings galore, STi pink springs, Bilstein HDs My Locker The only man alive who drives three "Subu SVS's".......according to my insurance company |
#113
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Re: sputtering and jerky idle
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Also, make sure to replace that short ground wire (I call it the CHARGING WIRE) that goes from the battery post to the body under the battery. If there's corrosion on this wire, you'll have dead batteries and that dreaded 'clicking' before the engine finally starts. As for the weird low idle issue..it's unrelated to this since I just started getting this after fixing a bad high pressure and low pressure hose going to the (just replaced) steering pump? VERY strange, but I'm not surprised since I do have worn out cam seals and I'm just getting around to replacing the original OEM Oil Pressure switch (I think this is why my engine light comes on after 5 minutes of driving) from 1992!! I think my oil pressure switch is plugged up or corroded I'm sure about it. To add: Someone mentioned about replacing the gas cap that solved their poor low idle issue ( RPMs fluctuate causing the engine to stall or starve for gas) and I did notice that my gas cap stopped 'PRESSURISING' at the same time my poor idle showed up at the same time I replaced my high/low pressure Power Steering hoses... So the issue could just be pressure differences in the lines. Confused ECU?? Anyways, time for a new gas cap!! (They do go bad after 5 years!!) Gas cap update: WASNT gas cap...still no pressure in gas tank!! Something connected to the EGR must have failed though. Still idles good though and I replaced the Oil Pressure Switch (it had black suit buildup on the blade connector) Last edited by RisingPhoenix; 06-22-2018 at 10:19 AM. Reason: Gas cap?? Gas cap is GOOD!!! |
#114
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Re: sputtering and jerky idle
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EXTRA NOTE: A bad or loose ENGINE groundstrap (not the battery ground I described earlier) can cause (happened to mine once) the alternator to look like it's not producing enough amps. My .02¢ Last edited by RisingPhoenix; 06-03-2018 at 10:08 AM. |
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