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#1
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Rotors Warp too Often!
I really don't like how my rotors warp every 5-6 months. I am aware when I drive of my braking, and know not to drive fast and brake hard as this prones your rotors to quicker warping.
I've asked this in the Babble Forum..... and got respones like "you shouldn't machine your rotors". Well, I hate the vibrating of the Steering wheel when I'm coming to a stop and now (since I didn't have the back rotors machined last time I was in) I'm gettin a bit of a vibrating in the Brake Pedal and can also feel it on my butt coming from behind me. So my question is...should I be warping rotors this often, and is machining o.k.? |
#2
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Check out this thread. It should help you out!
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=sick+rotors
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cbx-man '92 LSL Liquid Silver / Automatic Level-10 valve body mod / remote filter '92 LSL Pearl White / 5 spd. IndigoSpeed 11# flywheel / ACPT Carbon fiber drive shaft '80 Honda CBX in-line 24 valve 6 cylinder |
#3
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machining is OK to fix a warp, up to the limits.
braking hard isn't the total problem. maybe somebody will chime in here, but there's also aspects of pad bed-down as well as long light braking can heat the rotors more than a simple hard stop. I'm far from an expert, so... one last point, and really why I'm writing. Have you checked your sway bar bushings. I thought i had warped the rotors, turned out my bushings were either dead or dying (right and left side respectively). I managed to ignore the symptom long enough until I thought I had a bad CV joint coming on. I finally actually jacked the car up and looked around - turned out to be the cheapest fix I've experienced to-date on the SVX. Of course if replacing the rotors has each time fixed your problem for a while, then my idea falls into the probably dumb response category. |
#4
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Hmmm Recurring theme...
I think someone (Beav?) said that it might be that you have over torqued your lug nuts... should be around 70-80 ftlbs.... 75 being a good number to set. I tried it, did some hard braking to heat up the rotors and they did true up..... The guys at cosco had the nuts at about 120ftlb...... I think they were afraid that I wouldn't check them after 20 miles.... I guess most of their customers don't and costco doesn't want a lawsuit for a wheel coming off
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Mitch Hansen
"uncamitzi" This is a Dark Ride 92 Teal SVX LS-L 128K tranny swap with 4.11's Well.. my days of not taking you seriously have certainly come to a middle . |
#5
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It worked for me too. rotors now straight and true since re-torquing the nuts. A cheap fix worth trying first.
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Andy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ If I would be a young man again and had to decide how to make my living, I would not try to become a scientist or scholar or teacher. I would rather choose to be a plumber or a peddler in the hope to find that modest degree of independence still available under present circumstances. -- Albert Einstein, The Reporter, November 18 1954 |
#6
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Lugs, Nuts?
Enlighten me here if you will.
Are we talking here about torqueing the wheel nuts that hold on the rim? Or are we talking about torqueing the studs that hold the disk[rotor] bell to the hub?? Which? Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#7
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Just the wheel nuts. I know, it sounds too simple but it worked for me. Must be something to do with thermal expansion I guess.
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Andy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ If I would be a young man again and had to decide how to make my living, I would not try to become a scientist or scholar or teacher. I would rather choose to be a plumber or a peddler in the hope to find that modest degree of independence still available under present circumstances. -- Albert Einstein, The Reporter, November 18 1954 |
#8
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Re: Lugs, Nuts?
Quote:
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Mitch Hansen
"uncamitzi" This is a Dark Ride 92 Teal SVX LS-L 128K tranny swap with 4.11's Well.. my days of not taking you seriously have certainly come to a middle . |
#9
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Re: Re: Lugs, Nuts?
Quote:
That's what I thought. I will try this because the physics behind the idea sounds realistic. Does not explain why with the wheel off, and hub spinning the rotor has highs and lows, valleys and so on though. I have had these machined off the fronts to great improvement, and I still have a slight judder at 70+, which I think may be the back. Will get these done next. Meantime I will torque all nuts to 75 for the sake of even expansion under heat. Motorcycle rotors are "free floating", gripped loosely to the hub to cope with just this problem. I can't see that re-torqueing will flatten a rotor that has warped, but it could improve a situation that is caused by uneven expansion under heavy heat load. So the total answer would be new or skimmed rotors, follow up with correct sequential torqueing all round. One final finesse. Do the initial torqueing with the wheel in the air, i.e. jack up the wheel you are torqueing for best effect. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#10
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warping rotors
For what it's worth -
I had warped rotors about a year ago, shaking the brake pedal. I thought it was the front rotors because they take most of the stress, of course. I purchased cross-drilled front rotors from Motorsports.com who I located through SubaruSVX.com.I was not thrilled with the quality (had to drill two holes they forgot!), but eventually mounted on front - NO IMPROVEMENT! I found out that if just the pedal vibrates, then that means it's the rear. If the steering wheel shakes, it's the front. (These rotors cost $400!) I checked with my local AutoZone - picked up rear rotors for $70. each. PROBLEM SOLVED! Braking is totally smooth now for over 9 months. I did start torqueing my lug nuts as suggested by others. I do think it is a definite factor. Someone told me that the reason my rear rotors warped may have been because the ABS system may have favored the rears too much?! I also had turned front/back rotors about 6 months prior to problem- this can speed warpage. Someone told me to grind (not turn) rotors!(??) Gooday, Jaime |
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