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  #16  
Old 05-11-2012, 03:21 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

The grease does go bad after time ( shelf life ) I would repack the bearings with the grease I know is good, just for my own peace of mind.
And that is coming from an ex Timken employee.
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  #17  
Old 05-11-2012, 06:20 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskymaniac View Post
.
And it wasn't some yahoo from an internet parts store I talked to. It was a representative from Timken! [/QUOTE]

I would not spend too much time trying to figer it out, Tony. The best way has been pretty much common knowledge for years!

Good luck.

Keith
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  #18  
Old 05-15-2012, 08:33 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

Seems like nothing is simple. I went to auto parts stores today to buy a bearing packer, Mobil 1 grease and cleaner. They had chlorinated and "green" nonchlorinated brake cleaners. Are both safe or just one or the other for the plastic in the bearings?
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1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads
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  #19  
Old 05-15-2012, 10:33 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskymaniac View Post
Seems like nothing is simple. I went to auto parts stores today to buy a bearing packer, Mobil 1 grease and cleaner. They had chlorinated and "green" nonchlorinated brake cleaners. Are both safe or just one or the other for the plastic in the bearings?
Brake cleaners evaporate very fast. They probably won't stick around long enough to do any damage even if one of them was able to solvate the plastic a bit. If you're a little worried, get the non-chlorinated one.
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2012, 12:11 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post
Brake cleaners evaporate very fast. They probably won't stick around long enough to do any damage even if one of them was able to solvate the plastic a bit. If you're a little worried, get the non-chlorinated one.
I did a little digging today and, supposedly, the chlorinated old fashioned brake cleaner is a better de-greaser, is gentler on plastics AND is better for your health.

I guess I will stick with it. Any suggestions on how to not make an absolute mess when cleaning out the bearings with this stuff? I was thinking of putting it in a funnel and letting the goo drip into my "old oil" container I use to re-cycle used oil from my mowers and stuff.
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1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads
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  #21  
Old 05-16-2012, 12:22 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskymaniac View Post
is gentler on plastics AND is better for your health.
But worse for the environment...

Really better for your health? That's surprising. Whatever they put in the non-chlorinated stuff must be really bad then.

In the chem lab, I love my chlorinated solvents.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskymaniac View Post
Any suggestions on how to not make an absolute mess when cleaning out the bearings with this stuff?
I just used a bunch of paper towels and kept wiping it off. Your main concern really needs to be keeping any dirt/sand/dust far, far away from the exposed bearing. Wear some fresh nitrile gloves (latex probably won't stand up well to the brake cleaner).
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  #22  
Old 05-17-2012, 07:51 AM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

OK, I am going to give this cleaning and repacking thing a shot today.

In the mean time, I have a question about torquing down the axel nut. Is there a special procedure similar to the one Timken suggests:

http://www.timken.com/en-us/solution...nt_English.pdf

Or, do we just torque it down to specs according to the service manual? And, speaking of that, I have pdfs of both the 1992 and 1997 manual and they are not quite the same. See the attachments. First, the torque specs are slightly different. Second, there appears to be an additional oil seal in the 1997 manual that sits behind the inner seal for the bearing. It is item 12 on Figure 2 of the 1997 pdf. No one has ever suggested changing this particular seal but maybe that is because most of you have older vintage cars. I have no idea at what year they would have added this seal. Any idea when this seal was added and whether or not it should be replaced?

Does the axel nut need to be replaced or not? Very few people suggested it but at least one person did. I didn't order it and I am not sure if the local dealer has one in stock.

Finally, which lateral link bolt is undone during this job, the inner or outer?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Axle Shafts - Rear.pdf (444.9 KB, 370 views)
File Type: pdf AXLE_SHAFTS___REAR.pdf (138.8 KB, 141 views)
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1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads
2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil
2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil
1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything

Last edited by Huskymaniac; 05-17-2012 at 07:58 AM.
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  #23  
Old 05-17-2012, 08:14 AM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskymaniac View Post
In the mean time, I have a question about torquing down the axel nut. Is there a special procedure similar to the one Timken suggests:

http://www.timken.com/en-us/solution...nt_English.pdf

Or, do we just torque it down to specs according to the service manual?
...
Subaru FSM
...


Does the axel nut need to be replaced or not? Very few people suggested it but at least one person did. I didn't order it and I am not sure if the local dealer has one in stock.
...
Replace it, it is the same as the axle nut on Leg's and Imp's, if they don't have one in stock, they're doing something wrong.
...




Finally, which lateral link bolt is undone during this job, the inner or outer?
...
Outer, unless it is seized in, then the inner
...
Did you check those Mitchell service manuals against the FSM?
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  #24  
Old 05-17-2012, 06:05 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

I thought those were the pages from the Subaru manual. Is that incorrect? If so, does anyone have the correct torque values?
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1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads
2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil
2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil
1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything
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  #25  
Old 05-17-2012, 07:49 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

The manual says 123-152 ft. lbs. for the axle nuts.

Usually the torque range is for new or used fasteners (with the lower number forca new, unstressed nut)




Very similar to the torque values for the lug nuts. The FSM has a range of between 72-87 ft. lbs. The first number usually is for new, unstressed fasteners and the higher number for used.

Most members split the difference and run about 80 ft.lbs on the wheels

.


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Last edited by svxcess; 05-17-2012 at 07:53 PM.
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  #26  
Old 05-17-2012, 09:36 PM
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Re: Do replacement wheel bearings need to be re-packed or not?

Thanks John. I cleaned and re-packed the bearings today. First of all, the grease that was in there didn't seem as bad as people made it out to be. Second, what a royal PITA!!! Cleaning the old grease out was nasty. And when I looked at the bearing packer from Lisle and the bearings, I couldn't see any way that would work. So I hand packed them. Again, what a PITA!!! I think I got nearly every trace of the old grease out and I hope I put enough grease in them when I replacked them. I pushed it in the bottom until I started seeing the grease ooze out of the other side. I then put a thin layer of grease on the outside of the bearings and the rest of the inner race.
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1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads
2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil
2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil
1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything
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