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  #1  
Old 04-22-2011, 09:57 AM
alia176 alia176 is offline
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Code 32 and 37

The CEL (check engine light) came on yesterday morning and a noticeable difference in the engine performance. There is a hesitation from starting from a stop, perhaps even a hiccup. Once I'm rolling, she's very smooth. I pulled the code after work and they were 32 and 37. No data from both (left and right) O2 sensors.

Upon a closer look, I saw nothing out of the ordinary. Both O2 sensors are in good shape and the connectors and solid. The wire from the O2 sensors are not torn or broken and are still attached to the OEM clips.

What I did see is that my plastic air box (rear of the intake) may be introducing un-metered air into the intake. I think many of us have this issue, the nipples where hoses attach to the air box, this area tends to crack over time.

O2 sensor codes can be generic and may point to other things. I'd like some feedback from the board as to what else to check.

Have a good weekend.

Thanks.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:03 AM
92snowmachine 92snowmachine is offline
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Re: Code 32 and 37

i would fix the vacuum leak reset the computer and see if the problem returns, those codes can set if the computer doesn't see the sensors switching back and forth which can happen with a vacuum leak. they will be pegged lean all the time so the computer thinks it isn't seeing any voltage on the sensor signal wire.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:07 AM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

I too have a small hairline crack where the nipple meets the airbox, but it has not hindered performance or any issues. Check to see if all hoses are connected or if something came unplugged. Is your airbox seated on the throttle body correctly? Sometimes the rubber can get pinched causing it to not seal properly.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:25 AM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

Quote:
Originally Posted by msvx95 View Post
I too have a small hairline crack where the nipple meets the airbox, but it has not hindered performance or any issues. Check to see if all hoses are connected or if something came unplugged. Is your airbox seated on the throttle body correctly? Sometimes the rubber can get pinched causing it to not seal properly.
Good suggestions. I did check all the items you mentioned but will take a closer look today. Maybe something came lose and causing the hiccups I'm noticing. In my experience, O2 sensors don't usually contribute to an engine skipping or hiccuping.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:42 AM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

do you have a voltmeter? if so you could quickly rule the O2 sensors out as the problem. O2 codes are generally not the problem but just a symptom of a vacuum or fuel delivery issue. same as the driveability issue is just a symptom that can lead you to find out what is actually wrong. typically if it's hesitating just off idle but runs well at higher rpm then the problem is a small vacuum leak or problem with the maf because the percentage unmetered air from a leak or bad maf is significantly higher at idle then it is at higher rpms.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:51 AM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92snowmachine View Post
do you have a voltmeter? if so you could quickly rule the O2 sensors out as the problem. O2 codes are generally not the problem but just a symptom of a vacuum or fuel delivery issue. same as the driveability issue is just a symptom that can lead you to find out what is actually wrong. typically if it's hesitating just off idle but runs well at higher rpm then the problem is a small vacuum leak or problem with the maf because the percentage unmetered air from a leak or bad maf is significantly higher at idle then it is at higher rpms.
Yes, I do have DVM but didn't really to use it. The odds of both O2 sensors going bad at the same exact time is nil. I bet you're on the right track with the vac leak - I'll spray some carb cleaner around the area to see if the engine idle changes.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:59 AM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

since you do have a voltmeter you can probe the signal wire and watch the voltage while you spray carb cleaner to see if it changes when you spray around the intake, it's more accurate than listening for idle changes
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:01 AM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

I got the left O2 sensor giving me a CEL. Only comes on when engine has been running about 20min. No sooner. Same hesitation at idle even without CEL. I'm suspecting vac leak and am putting together a part number list of everything I wanna change out when I replace the rock hard vac lines.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:26 PM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

In my case, all vac lines were replaced two years ago. As you stated, most of the lines were rock hard. However, I'll check again this weekend and see if I can find a way to fix the cracks in the air box and look for any new leaks that may have developed.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:36 AM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

did some minor investigating this weekend - in between the honey do list!

I seem to have run out of Carb cleaner so I used WD-40 and sprayed it all around the hoses and the plastic intake air box. The idle didn't change in any way.

The engine rpm seemed to have taken a turn for the worse. On the first start of the day, she barely has enough rpm to keep going. After about 25 seconds of barely loping along, she pick up the rpm to about 700, and then oscillates between 700 - 850. This oscillating idle never did go away for the five min that I let her warm up this morning before heading to work.

Once I'm driving at speed, all is well from what I can tell.

After work today, I'll pick up some carb cleaner and try the test again. I'll also pull the CEL code to see if any new codes have popped up.

Let me know if the new info about the oscillating idle brings up any new ideas.

Thanks.
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:27 PM
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Re: Code 32 and 37

wd-40 isn't flammable enough to make a noticeable idle change, especially if the idle is already unstable. you might want to use your voltmeter to check your tps adjustment and try unplugging your maf to see if the idle speed is changed or more consistent.
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:51 PM
alia176 alia176 is offline
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Re: Code 32 and 37

So, I sprayed Carb cleaner on the engine around the vac connections but didn't find any. I did find an interesting though and that is the two large wires going to the crankshaft position sensor. It appears as though the two large brown wires going to the sensor have lost their insulation. I'm not sure if this is due to them being too brittle or what but I can see the shield on both wires. I didn't see any evidence of rubbing anywhere and the connector was nice and tight.

I also unplugged the MAF sensor from the MAF and was going to clean it but I seemed to have run out of MAF cleaner spray. So, I buttoned everything back up and started her up.

Now, this is interesting - the engine no longer has a bad idle and a start from stop is back to normal. The drive to work this morning was smooth as it was before without any hiccups. At lunch today, I cleared the two codes 32 & 37 and will monitor if anything comes up on the drive home from work.

I seemed to have improved the behavior by doing the minor investigation yesterday. When I get home I'll unplug the MAF while the engine is idling to see if anything changes.

My plan this weekend is to remove the alternator and take a closer look at the two exposed wires and wrap them or trim them if required.

Thanks.
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Last edited by alia176; 04-26-2011 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:26 PM
alia176 alia176 is offline
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Re: Code 32 and 37

Update:

So far the engine is running very smoothly, nary a hiccup at any time. The two codes haven't returned. I have a feeling that the crank sensor chafed wires may be the culprit.

Still planning on fixing it this weekend.
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