Attempting Timing Belt / Water Pump Replacement - Tips/Advice. - Page 2

Cam · #16 10-31-2010, 02:15 PM

It may be hard to fine a good used one. You would definitely do better shelling out the money for a new one. They warp from heat.

Subix · #17 10-31-2010, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cam

It may be hard to fine a good used one. You would definitely do better shelling out the money for a new one. They warp from heat.

Advice heeded... will go the new route then. Thanks.

jeffs92svx · #18 10-31-2010, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxfiles

That includes the oil pump reseal,
tightening the five screws on the back of it,
both cam plugs,
both cam seals.
While you have it apart you might as well do it right!

yeah, thats right svxfiles. I know for a fact that the garage doing mine has never done one before so i hope they do it right. I looked at your site today and i live in WV. I am sure i will be getting in touch with you on the trans swap and other things. I have a 93 z28 6 speed that is plumb evil but i would love to make this rare thing run. Sorry for the thread jacking.

jeffs92svx · #19 10-31-2010, 04:40 PM

Are these engines a non interference so when the belt breaks it doesnt mess up the valves or anything. My pump just went out, the belt didnt break. Just wondering since the op's belt broke if he checked everything or if their was a need too.

svxfiles · #20 10-31-2010, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffs92svx

Are these engines a non interference so when the belt breaks it doesnt mess up the valves or anything. My pump just went out, the belt didnt break. Just wondering since the op's belt broke if he checked everything or if their was a need too.

With stock cams they are noninterference.

jeffs92svx · #21 10-31-2010, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxfiles

With stock cams they are noninterference.

cool man!!

svxfiles · #22 10-31-2010, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffs92svx

cool man!!

Why, yes,
Thank you!

You just missed a very cool Pumpkin Carve Meet, last weekend.
We had about 25 SVX people show up.

It was GREAT!

Subix · #23 11-04-2010, 11:45 AM

Could someone please advise me? I'm trying to make progress with this.

I found the last two bolts to remove the water pump. The last one is right behind the rear timing belt housing, which seems impossible to get to without removing the rear cover. Can I safely remove the camshaft?

gear to remove the rear cover? Or, what should I do?

Also, from my understanding, the arrow is supposed to mark up with the notch on the cover, correct? for proper timing. How does one do that properly? It doesn't seem to want to move.

please help.

Mike621 · #24 11-04-2010, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subix

Could someone please advise me? I'm trying to make progress with this.

I found the last two bolts to remove the water pump. The last one is right behind the rear timing belt housing, which seems impossible to get to without removing the rear cover. Can I safely remove the camshaft?

gear to remove the rear cover? Or, what should I do?

Also, from my understanding, the arrow is supposed to mark up with the notch on the cover, correct? for proper timing. How does one do that properly? It doesn't seem to want to move.

please help.

You will need to remove the bolt retaining the timing gear by using another tool to keep the cam from spinning. SVX files made a tool specifically for this purpose, which is helpful, but it is not necessary.

SoCal LS-L · #25 11-04-2010, 12:17 PM

Two things.... you have to pull the rear timing cover to get the last 10mm bolts, period. You can use the old timing belt wrapped around the cam gear to get it off, but a pulley wrench tool would be better.

Now, IMPORTANT. Do NOT line the arrows to anything. Use the small notch on the face of both cam gears and line those to the marks on the rear cover. Otherwise it will be off-timed and wont start.

Subix · #26 11-04-2010, 02:00 PM

Thanks..

Ok, got it. So by moving the gears accidentally in trying to remove it will not do any harm then, right?

SoCal you mention do not line the arrows to anything as in, don't go by the arrows at all? I didn't notice but I'll have to find this notch you are speaking of and line it up that way, completely disregarding the arrow on the gear itself? right?

I know I mentioned it before but just in case, the belt did break... so I'm sure it is all off. Lastly, they should be kind of hard to move normally right? Just making sure.

Thanks again guys! I'll attack this in the morning.. before it snows.

(All the plastic pieces are junk. Brittle, broken, warped, melted crap. It's going to cost over $200 to replace the entire generic plastic housing for the timing belt? )

SoCal LS-L · #27 11-04-2010, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subix

Thanks..

Ok, got it. So by moving the gears accidentally in trying to remove it will not do any harm then, right?

SoCal you mention do not line the arrows to anything as in, don't go by the arrows at all? I didn't notice but I'll have to find this notch you are speaking of and line it up that way, completely disregarding the arrow on the gear itself? right?

I know I mentioned it before but just in case, the belt did break... so I'm sure it is all off. Lastly, they should be kind of hard to move normally right? Just making sure.

Thanks again guys! I'll attack this in the morning.. before it snows.

(All the plastic pieces are junk. Brittle, broken, warped, melted crap. It's going to cost over $200 to replace the entire generic plastic housing for the timing belt? )

Yes the arrows are for something else.... use the notches to time your car!!

SoCal LS-L · #28 11-04-2010, 06:00 PM

Forgot to mention, the cams tend to "flop" when rotated, but you should be able to keep them still right where they are timed. Then gently install the belt, and hold taut until the tensioner pulley assy is reinstalled. After you are confident on the time, pull the tensioner clip out to tension the belt, then rotate back and forth to make sure your marks still line up on all 3 points.

Subix · #29 11-09-2010, 03:30 PM

Got to spend a little over an hour messing with it today.
The camshaft pulley is finally off. (next to the water pump).

All the bolts are off the water pump but it doesn't budge.
Should I need to remove whatever bracket above that or is there some other
trick to breaking it loose without breaking something?

svxfiles · #30 11-09-2010, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subix

Got to spend a little over an hour messing with it today.
The camshaft pulley is finally off. (next to the water pump).

All the bolts are off the water pump but it doesn't budge.
Should I need to remove whatever bracket above that or is there some other
trick to breaking it loose without breaking something?

How many waterpump bolts did you remove?
All six, or all seven!