Another overheating thread

[Black88GTA]

I was out driving today, (about 50 degrees, sunny) and got stuck in traffic. Everything seemed OK, until I looked at the temp gauge, and it was at 3/4 of the way up So I pulled over as fast as I could, and took a look at things. Here's what I found...

Both fans were on, and working normally.
Overflow tank was beyond the full mark, but not bubbling / boiling or anything. In fact, I dipped my finger in it, and it was barely warm.
Radiator cap / top of radiator felt warm (not hot)
I could put my hand on the intake manifold with the car running and leave it there (warm, not hot)
Upper radiator hose was warm
Oil on dipstick / under cap looked fine
No leaks at all.

So, I allowed it to cool down for a few minutes, then decided to turn back and drive it home (with an eye on the temp gauge, and the heat on full). I noticed that when I was idling / moving slowly, the temp would go up. But at expressway speeds, it dropped to normal operating temp and stayed there (never went below normal). The car drove fine - I wouldn't have even known anything was amiss unless I looked at the temp gauge.

The radiator was replaced last summer with a new one. Water pump / thermostat are unknown age / mileage. Although I would guess that the thermostat is probably OK, since the temp never went below normal when I was on the expressway.

Does anyone know what this might be? I'm suspecting either the head gasket, or water pump. God I hope it isn't the head gasket. I have no idea how I'm going to fix that here if it is.

[redlightningsvx]

I had the exact same thing and I replaced the T-stat and rad cap with new OEM parts and it never happened again. It would be 3/4 the way up and only raise at lower speeds but faster speeds it went to normal. My old T-stat that was 2 weeks old from Subaru would only open so much, and not full at temp. Also the rad cap 2 weeks old was junk from Subaru. Here's the thread...http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51144

[immortal_suby]

cheapest thing to do is replace the t-stat and rad cap and cross your fingers hoping it's not a head gasket.

[sabin]

i have a brand new rad cap if you want it

[Black88GTA]

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I went out just now and looked at it again after it had cooled down completely. I fear the worst.

No coolant is visible in the radiator, but the overflow tank remains nearly full, even after fully cooling down. I blew through the hose connecting the overflow tank to the radiator - seemed a bit tough to blow through at first, but it's fine now. I sniffed the radiator fill neck with the cap off, and it smells like exhaust. As far as I know, the only thing that can make your coolant smell like exhaust is either a bad HG or cracked head / block. So, I think it's done.

I guess now I'll have to either read up on how to change a head gasket, or bend over and pay someone to do it / help me do it that isn't too far away. At least it got me through winter, I guess.

[sowise]

Here is a suggestion on something to consider...

Pay someone to do it could cost about $2000 +

You can buy general tool set (craftsman at any sears) expensive side would be say $169
Harbor freight engine lift $180-250
harbor freight engine stand $50-60
Dealer engine reseal kit I can't remember the exact cost but atleast $250 add in lets say another 150 for misc. sensors or hoses etc.

DIY Low side $799 (and not all spent at once either) high side $879.

You keep all the tools or resell what you don't want. See paying someone else just doesn't make much sense to me. If you have some mechanical experience, a manual (yeh even chiltons), and the forums you should be able to do pretty much anything to these cars. Just my $0.02

[Cam]

Sounds almost identical to my head gasket issues. You could most likely take the engine apart yourself with out much help. When you pull the engine out triple check all the hoses are disconnected. LOOK EVERYWHERE. I can tell you right now you will want to replace your vacuum hoses, and most likely a sensoer or two. There are a couple special tools needed that are not found in a craftsman kit, but for DIY one timer tools harbour freight is your friend. This could be done in a weekend if you are patient, persistent and driven to get it done. Good luck.

Just post if you hit any roadblocks. And label everything you take off. Especially bolts.

[Black88GTA]

Well, I have some experience with this. I did a motor swap in my Trans Am back in college. I have a full set of factory SVX service manuals, and all the tools I should need (minus any special subaru ones) and I guess I could pick up a cheap engine stand / hoist somewhere (anyone know of any good deals out there?) The hard part is going to be finding space / time to work on it.

What are the "must have" special Subaru tools that I'm going to need? Are there off-the-shelf tools that can substitute for these if I can't locate them?
Aside from seals, is there a list of things that should be done while the engine is out?
And, does anyone have a parts list of what's included in the Subaru engine reseal kit? I just did the cam / crank seals and valve cover gaskets less than 4k ago, so I don't want to buy those again if I can avoid it.

[lhopp77]

Originally Posted by Black88GTA

And, does anyone have a parts list of what's included in the Subaru engine reseal kit? I just did the cam / crank seals and valve cover gaskets less than 4k ago, so I don't want to buy those again if I can avoid it.

Engine reseal kit gasket list below. You can always sell the valve cover reseal gaskets on here. Someone always needs them.

Another option, of course, is to buy one of the low mileage JDM engines and just doing and engine swap.

Lee

[Black88GTA]

Originally Posted by lhopp77

Engine reseal kit gasket list below. You can always sell the valve cover reseal gaskets on here. Someone always needs them.

Another option, of course, is to buy one of the low mileage JDM engines and just doing and engine swap.

Lee

Thanks for the listing, it is appreciated. That's probably what I'll end up doing, since I think if I piecemeal that whole list together without the VCG parts, it'll end up being more than the whole kit that includes them.

I thought about going the JDM engine / used engine swap route, but decided against it for a few reasons. My feeling is that since Japan is small and densely populated, those motors mainly see lots of stop-and-go, around-town usage when in service. They were removed from the cars and have been sitting since who knows how long ago. Even if you get a good one - the gaskets / seals are the same age as ours regardless of mileage, so I'd probably be on borrowed time anyway. Might as well do the gaskets on mine, so I know it should last a good long while after that (as long as I don't mess it up, that is).

[sowise]

Also make sure you have some 12 point sockets as well as the 6 point. The head bolts require the 12 point sockets. You will likely need 1 or 2 larger than your typical rail set size I can't quite remember exactly what they are off the top of my head but as long as you have some place close to buy upto 24mm or you should be ok. Other than that I don't remember needing anything specific to do the gaskets. Take notes, pictures, video whatever you feel would be easier to put things back together if you won't be doing it all in one sitting. Harbor Freight is where to get cheap tools as long as you don't plan on them lasting beyond a few uses.
Also Purple Power is great stuff for cleaning things up.

[Cam]

+1 for purple power.

I think our headbolts are 17mm but i could be wrong. I will rify for you when I get home in a few hours. 12 pt for sure.

[Black88GTA]

Thanks for the tips guys. I plan on taking lots of pictures of everything, and I will have a 2nd SVX on hand for reference as well. I think I have a 17mm 12 pt socket, but am not sure - I've got another car and a Home Depot not far away, so I should be good there. I don't have a B&M Harbor Freight anywhere close at all though so that's not really an option, unless I order stuff waay in advance (their shipping speed sucks).

Are our head bolts TTY, or can they be reused?

[sabin]

check your text messages

[Cam]

Our headbolts are 14mm...sorry for the confusion. As far as being reused, I have heard both no and yes. When in doubt, change it out, but you could always research that further.