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  #1  
Old 10-03-2009, 04:58 PM
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redlightningsvx redlightningsvx is offline
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Brake work

Well i'm going to be redoing the brakes on the svx finally and I need some help. I have new drilled/slotted rotors, brakes, SS lines, Dot 4 fluid, rebuilding some calipers. I can do everything on the list easy but i'm a little confused on installing the lines. What I don't get is do I completely drain the fluid? From the ABS block? From the master cylinder? I also have speed bleeders and a bottle to help get the air out. I'm just confused on how I should get the old black fluid out for new when installing the ss lines. Thanks
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94' Barcelona Red w/ Tricoat black 2-tone AWD Ls -Sold
Mods:AWD conversion/4.44 swap by Budfreak, Custom red interior lights, Custom Satin black dash, Power mode switch, Cold air intake, Permecool tranny filter,Sony xplode 10" sub, Sony xplode 1000w amp, Blitz in-line driver, DDM Tuning 6000k HID's, New paint job/body work by me, 97' Grill, QC shift kit, 17'' MB Motoring rims, 15&20 min mod, front & rear urethane swaybar bushings, Custom fiberglass sub box, Custom red led a/c control unit, perrin lightweight crank pulley, Black wrinkle finish powdercoated intake manifold w/ clear hoses , 02' outback heated/power black leather seats
Soon to come:Fiberglass hood, upholster ALL suede to black leather
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  #2  
Old 10-03-2009, 05:04 PM
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SoCal LS-L SoCal LS-L is offline
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Re: Brake work

I wouldnt advise letting any more air into the system than necessary. Just install the new lines, and start the normal bleeding process (with all new fluid in reservoir) starting from the RR side and bleed until the fluid comes out clean and new. Once you do all 4 wheels, the system should be completely flushed and have all new fluid throughout. I would definitely not drain the fluid from the ABS block.
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2009, 05:08 PM
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redlightningsvx redlightningsvx is offline
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Re: Brake work

So I should drain the old fluid from the caliper unitl no more comes out, then R&R the old line with the new SS one? Also the FSM says bleed from the primary, secondary bleeders from the abs block then FR, RL, FL, RR.
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Seth
94' Barcelona Red w/ Tricoat black 2-tone AWD Ls -Sold
Mods:AWD conversion/4.44 swap by Budfreak, Custom red interior lights, Custom Satin black dash, Power mode switch, Cold air intake, Permecool tranny filter,Sony xplode 10" sub, Sony xplode 1000w amp, Blitz in-line driver, DDM Tuning 6000k HID's, New paint job/body work by me, 97' Grill, QC shift kit, 17'' MB Motoring rims, 15&20 min mod, front & rear urethane swaybar bushings, Custom fiberglass sub box, Custom red led a/c control unit, perrin lightweight crank pulley, Black wrinkle finish powdercoated intake manifold w/ clear hoses , 02' outback heated/power black leather seats
Soon to come:Fiberglass hood, upholster ALL suede to black leather
Past subies:

92' Pearl White/black top LS-L-SOLD
96' Legacy Outback-TOTALED
99' Legacy Outback Limited 30th anniversary edition-TOTALED
98' Forester L -Totaled
Other toys:
99' Forester S -WRX brake upgrade, soon an 04 wrx motor swap
06' B9 Tribeca-Stock
1982' Yamaha xj650 Maxim
Mods:
work in progress

Last edited by redlightningsvx; 10-03-2009 at 05:11 PM.
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2009, 05:30 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Re: Brake work

I would install all new SS brake lines. Then bleed the system using the new fluid. When you get the new fluid coming out of the bleeder, tighten it and go to the next one. Good luck and you will find the brakes are like they should have been all along. You will be pleased.
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2009, 05:30 PM
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Hocrest Hocrest is offline
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Re: Brake work

Replace all the lines.

Use a mighty-vac, turkey baster or shop rag to get as much skanky fluid out of the reservoir as possible THEN FILL with fresh.

Then bleed until you get clean fluid, if at any time you suck air in through the reservoir, you need to start over. The first corner you do will take the most bleeding to get the new fluid flushed through, the other three should go quicker.

If you haven't gotten the rebuild kits yet, I think I saw that its cheaper (and easier) to get a set of rebuilt/loaded front calipers from autozone than doing it yourself...
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  #6  
Old 10-03-2009, 05:48 PM
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redlightningsvx redlightningsvx is offline
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Re: Brake work

I got rebuild kits for the fronts for $20 at work. The subie tech and I rebuilt the LF a while ago and it took about an hour or so but I found an easier way that will take about 10 min. I'm not going to rebuild the rears as they look pretty good but will take a better inspection when I take them off.
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Seth
94' Barcelona Red w/ Tricoat black 2-tone AWD Ls -Sold
Mods:AWD conversion/4.44 swap by Budfreak, Custom red interior lights, Custom Satin black dash, Power mode switch, Cold air intake, Permecool tranny filter,Sony xplode 10" sub, Sony xplode 1000w amp, Blitz in-line driver, DDM Tuning 6000k HID's, New paint job/body work by me, 97' Grill, QC shift kit, 17'' MB Motoring rims, 15&20 min mod, front & rear urethane swaybar bushings, Custom fiberglass sub box, Custom red led a/c control unit, perrin lightweight crank pulley, Black wrinkle finish powdercoated intake manifold w/ clear hoses , 02' outback heated/power black leather seats
Soon to come:Fiberglass hood, upholster ALL suede to black leather
Past subies:

92' Pearl White/black top LS-L-SOLD
96' Legacy Outback-TOTALED
99' Legacy Outback Limited 30th anniversary edition-TOTALED
98' Forester L -Totaled
Other toys:
99' Forester S -WRX brake upgrade, soon an 04 wrx motor swap
06' B9 Tribeca-Stock
1982' Yamaha xj650 Maxim
Mods:
work in progress
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  #7  
Old 10-06-2009, 07:30 PM
dennyo dennyo is offline
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Re: Brake work

from the fsm bleeding sequence abs primary,abs secondary,fr,rl,fl,rr. abs primary is on the side with the rr line out.hope this helps
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