here we go again with a stuck driver's side window

powerdog · #1 09-19-2009, 09:45 AM

Hello All, Was a nice morn so decided to see if I could fix my Dr side window. It was only able to go two inches down and the same two back up to close. At each end point (up/down) it would buzz and stop. That is, if I was opening it, it would go down 2 inches, stop and buzz. Let off the button buzzing stops. to close, lift up on switch, windows goes up and closed then buzzed. Am guessing cable is hosed again. Managed to get it all the way down and of course it won't go back up now. Now I have no buzzing, no movement, no nothing when I pull up on the switch to close the window. Can't see if the cable is wrapped etc. Here we go again. Tried to pull up on window manually and while pressing button. Dead. Like I said..."was" a nice morn. Guess I'll look further...looks like I have caqble tension on both sides of that plastic clip...so I guess it's kinked/tangled...suppose I'll take out the regulator since I can't see S yet.

MadMaxSvx · #2 09-19-2009, 10:20 AM

If the motor stops after few inches and there is a buzzing noise from the swith, then maybe the express down feature is failing?.

powerdog · #3 09-19-2009, 10:34 AM

well I've got no sound at all now. Window is almost all the way down. Cable appears ok. If I pull/push up on the window, I get tension on the bottom part of cable. Of course if I try to push down, I get cable tension on top of cable. Pulleys appear fine. Acting as though I've run out of cable so...what is preventing me from raising/lowering the window manually or in combination with the switch? (even though I can't tell if the switch is doing anything) because no evidence of power (noise). Only thing I am sure of is that the cable is somehow stuck (I guess). Question is how do I free it? Hrmph.

SoCal LS-L · #4 09-19-2009, 10:45 AM

This is one where you just have to get in there and see. The operation of the window may have stopped completely now because of a blown fuse, an overloaded window motor can do that. A mechanics mirror is indespensible in cases like these so you can see the entire motor and regulator assy and find where it may be jamming.

MadMaxSvx · #5 09-19-2009, 11:10 AM

If you have the correct tools, maybe you can check the motor terminals for voltage, when activating the switch, then you will see where the problem is located.

powerdog · #6 09-19-2009, 11:33 AM

I know I have a multimeter around here somewhere. I don't think the motor is burned out...it was working until I pushed the window down...so I leaned toward a fuse but I do not find a fuse for the power windows...but then again, I can't see why the motor or fuse would be the problem. Seems mechanical/cable/regulator assembly related. MadMaxSvx, I assume I'd touch the meter leads to the terminals, activate the switch and check the reading. Questions: Is that correct and what kind of reading would I be looking for?

It's Just Eric · #7 09-19-2009, 11:36 AM

Is it just the driver's window, or all the windows? (plus maby sunroof?)

powerdog · #8 09-19-2009, 11:38 AM

If I connect the door panel (switch) the other windows work Right now with the panel off, none work. I assume that's normal. No sunroof.

MadMaxSvx · #9 09-19-2009, 11:56 AM

The other windows wont work with main swith disconnected.

1-If the other windows can be controlled from the main swith, then the fuse/wiring is good.
2-Plug the meter terminals to the wires going to the motor,when you push the switch, you will see a reading of (12v) or (-12v) depending if you press the switch up or down.
If you have this reading (12v) or (-12v), then the motor is dead.
If you have 0 voltage, then the switch is bad.

powerdog · #10 09-19-2009, 12:34 PM

All windows work from main switch except driver. Can I test from the two blue plastic connectors in the attached photo? I have a blue and a blue/red wire(s). To what can I touch the tester?

SoCal LS-L · #11 09-19-2009, 12:38 PM

When the motor gets hot from being overloaded (jammed by something) they will usually stop working for a time. You can always jump 12V directly to the motor to test it, reversing the polarity reverses the motor rotation. With it out you can manually slide the window up and down to see if and where it jams.

Edit: Yes, if thats the connector to the motor, hook the main switch back up and test for voltage (as MadMax said) from the switch to those 2 terminals in the connector when switch is pressed in either direction.

powerdog · #12 09-19-2009, 12:44 PM

You mean if I take out the motor all the way I should be able to move the window?
If I jump from the battery, any ole wiring will do?
Thanks

SoCal LS-L · #13 09-19-2009, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerdog

You mean if I take out the motor all the way I should be able to move the window?
If I jump from the battery, any ole wiring will do?
Thanks

Yes, and yes (assuming its not 40 gauge phone cord wire

). The wire has to be at least as thick as what goes to the motor originally.

MadMaxSvx · #14 09-19-2009, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerdog

All windows work from main switch except driver. Can I test from the two blue plastic connectors in the attached photo? I have a blue and a blue/red wire(s). To what can I touch the tester?

To check voltage:One tester lead in each wire,the dark blue and the dark blue bith a red line.

To feed the motor with energy to make it roll up or down: A negative (-) wire from battery to the light blue wire and a positive (+) in the light blue/red stripe wire,will make the window roll UP,switch the wires to make it roll DOWN.

I just tested it in my car.(I used the tester leads and a battery from another car to perform the test)

powerdog · #15 09-19-2009, 03:50 PM

Seems like indications that motor is bad but I find that hard to believe in that I replaced both motor and switch a few years ago. Anyhow, what I have is this: I attached the tester probes to each (male and female) connector shown in the previous post's attached photo. (Blue and Blue/Red wires). On the connector on the left which goes back to the motor I believe, I got nothing. 0L. Got the same when I put it on only one prong of the connector and the other probe touching a bare screw on the door. When I put test probe on connector on right closer to front of car, which I guess is to switch and battery, I got 12 and -12 when I reversed the probes. I have not gone from the battery directly to motor as I don't think I have any acceptable wire. Could I use jumper cables from battery and then smaller wire to probes of my tester? gotta find some wire. Thanks..forgot, I can't find the power window fuse either, but the other windows work so...no matter I guess.

Figured I'd take a cruise. Pressed the driver side window button down and the window went down the rest of the way. If I pull up on switch to close window, it buzzes. What do I have? alignment problem?