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  #16  
Old 10-30-2002, 08:13 PM
Ron Mummert Ron Mummert is offline
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Unhappy

Well after bragging for almost two years & 32K of trouble free driving, I do believe I too have contracted the dreaded Solenoid A disease. (Noticed more abrupt 1-2 & 3-4 shifts & 16 rapid power light flashes).
Due to the miracle of THE SEARCH FUNCTION I landed on this thread that seems to detail the solutions to my woes. I suppose I'll first check the resistor, hoping to find squirrel droppings close by. If no signs of debris then I guess it's off to the ATM. A few questions occurred to me though. 1. The effect so far is simply the "crisper" shifts that some of you actually "crush your beads", or worse, pay scads of bucks to Level 10 to professionally achieve. Why not just put black tape over the power light, & tell the guy next door who's been ogling the car that I got a Level 10 rebuild, & now the car's worth twice what I paid for it? 2. Could the recent east coast monsoons after the recent drought and pestilence effect the resistor? I mean I suspect ANYTHING that's "out there" exposed to the elements is eventually doomed to crack & fall off. I mean that's what happened to my..... Well, never mind, but I'd much rather spiff up a connector than drop the whole freakin' undercarriage to get at that solenoid thing.

Your comments & collective wisdom welcome as always - Ron.
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  #17  
Old 10-30-2002, 09:19 PM
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The first thing you should be doing is checking the resistance of that quirky resistor behind your battery. Should be close to 10-12 ohms.
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  #18  
Old 10-30-2002, 09:34 PM
Ron Mummert Ron Mummert is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Earthworm
The first thing you should be doing is checking the resistance of that quirky resistor behind your battery. Should be close to 10-12 ohms.


Thanks David - But if it IS 10-12 Ohms, then what? If it isn't, then what? Ron.
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  #19  
Old 10-30-2002, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ron Mummert
Thanks David - But if it IS 10-12 Ohms, then what? If it isn't, then what? Ron.
If it is then it's possibly the solenoid itself (not likely).

I had this error code on my SVX and my resistor was shot.
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  #20  
Old 10-30-2002, 10:13 PM
Ron Mummert Ron Mummert is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Earthworm
If it is then it's possibly the solenoid itself (not likely).

I had this error code on my SVX and my resistor was shot.
Uhh...so you're saying the resister SHOULD be at 10-12 ohms, & if it IS then it's something else? ...and if it isn't, replace it?

Muddling through ohm sweet ohm - Ron.
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  #21  
Old 10-30-2002, 11:11 PM
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Bingo. Actually I believe 7-15 ohms is acceptable.
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  #22  
Old 10-31-2002, 05:10 AM
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ohm ward bound

Hi Ron

I hope the resistor turns out to be your problem, it seems to be the simplest fix.

The troubleshooting section I put in earlier in this thread is from the Workshop Manual. Again, the emphasis is on looking for bad connections, before presuming the solenoid is shot and wasting time and money.

With your luck, I'd be expecting the resistor is the problem.

Joe
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  #23  
Old 10-31-2002, 10:39 AM
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Hi Ron,

The resistor controls the line pressure. Low rpm and soft throttle is low line pressure to the trans. Hard throttle and the line pressure goes up. You can actually measure the line voltage to Solenoid A if you are so inclined. Stiff wire connectors slid along the wire in the connector of TCU and an anolog volt meter will do the trick. The resistor OHMS is a part of the control but the voltage gives you a better indication. I have done this on my car so if you need help just ask.

High end voltage is low pressure and low voltage is high pressure. So I would assume your TCU is stuck on the low voltage end.
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  #24  
Old 10-31-2002, 02:47 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Hi Ron, sorry to hear that s$it has happened.

Try unplugging the resistor, If it makes no difference the A solenoid has failed in the full pressure state.

Harvey.
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  #25  
Old 10-31-2002, 02:52 PM
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I had exactly the same problem myself.It was traced to the resistor going open circuit. One replacement and the changes are silky smooth


Andy
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  #26  
Old 10-31-2002, 02:53 PM
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Hmm... unless the connector has gone bad or the resistor has gone open.
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  #27  
Old 10-31-2002, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boone
Hmm... unless the connector has gone bad or the resistor has gone open.

Firstly, thanks to all of you guys on both sides of the Atlantic for jumping in with advise. The resistor - that's what's hiding behind that rectangular piece of clear metal screwed to the inner fender behind the battery? Doesn't look all that hard to get at. So once I do get to it, what am I looking for? Dirt, popcorn, cooties? If there're no visual clues, is this where I tell Homer to do some ohm tests? Because the only meter I've got is the one I step on every day that tells me I'm healthy, because no sickly dude could possibly weigh that much. Secondly, no matter what I find out, I'll probably wait until it's time to a few other things before I replace whatever. Am I going put Mr. Tranny in a nose dive to sure death by driving with a bad resistor or Solenoid A? I thought some of you guys were driving with the resistor disconnected because you liked that '50s Hydramatic whiplash feel. I'm taking the car to the Snowshoe I meet this weekend & will add a few hundred miles to the clock. Should I phone ahead for an ambulance now?

Another thanks - Ron
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  #28  
Old 11-01-2002, 04:48 AM
LarryIII LarryIII is offline
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Ron,

Have you been drinking from Box-O-Wine and watching old star treks again?
We have not invented clear metal yet.
As someone told Dustin Hoffman at a patry once, "PLASTICS".
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  #29  
Old 11-03-2002, 07:36 AM
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According to the shop manual (Sect. 3-2, page 179, para. 4 )
the resistance of the resistor controlling duty solenoid A should be 9-15 ohms.
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  #30  
Old 11-03-2002, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by LarryIII
According to the shop manual (Sect. 3-2, page 179, para. 4 )
the resistance of the resistor controlling duty solenoid A should be 9-15 ohms.
Sure...cheat! I was just going from memory

I tested mine when it was bad and it measured somewhere around 1,000,000 ohms so it was just a little out of spec.
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