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  #16  
Old 07-08-2008, 11:25 PM
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Re: How hard is a full brake job, honestly?

Forgot to mention, make sure if you use a synthetic brake fluid that it does NOT contain silicone, silicone brake fluid is 1) not compatible with conventional brake fluid, will require flushing the system with denatured alcohol first, and 2) silicone fluid isn't compatible with ABS, under the high pressure that is present in the ABS system, it will start to solidify and it will plug up the ABS valve body.

the higher the DOT number, the higher the boiling point. DOT5 in most cases = synthetic (but I have seen DOT 5.1 that is regular brake fluid) DOT 3 and DOT 4 are conventional.

As for fluid capacity, it usually takes me one to one and a half bottles to do a flush at work, depending on how nasty the original fluid was.
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  #17  
Old 07-09-2008, 04:59 AM
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Re: How hard is a full brake job, honestly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondasucks View Post
Forgot to mention, make sure if you use a synthetic brake fluid that it does NOT contain silicone, silicone brake fluid is 1) not compatible with conventional brake fluid, will require flushing the system with denatured alcohol first, and 2) silicone fluid isn't compatible with ABS, under the high pressure that is present in the ABS system, it will start to solidify and it will plug up the ABS valve body.

the higher the DOT number, the higher the boiling point. DOT5 in most cases = synthetic (but I have seen DOT 5.1 that is regular brake fluid) DOT 3 and DOT 4 are conventional.

As for fluid capacity, it usually takes me one to one and a half bottles to do a flush at work, depending on how nasty the original fluid was.
Yes. Do NOT use DOT 5.

Use DOT 5.1. It is a superior alternative to DOT 4.
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  #18  
Old 07-13-2008, 08:07 AM
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Re: How hard is a full brake job, honestly?

Did front & rear brake pads yesterday, also new brake fluid. I used a silicone based grease to lube the pins & the rubber around the pistons. This was the first time working on the rear calipers, I noticed they are Mitsubishi, boy are they small. There is only about 3/32nd's of pad on the old ones, they may be original or have 57k miles on them.

The front pads did not wear down evenly, the right side had a 1/3rd less pad remaining compared to the left.

I used a bleeder bottle with a magnet attached to the lid, it worked great when I pushed the pistons back.

I have about 41k miles on A.R.T. cryovaced groved front rotors, the old pads are Akebono ceramic, the rotors are in fantastic condition. Is 41k miles reasonable for front pads? I could have gone 4 or 5K more on the Akebono's.
On the front I installed Monroe ceramic "CX333", I was surprised to see they contain copper particles.

Overall, this is a fun job, very rewarding.
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  #19  
Old 07-13-2008, 08:39 AM
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Re: How hard is a full brake job, honestly?

MacGyver - Let me know if you have any quesitons. I have done them before and they can be done easily. It does help to have some help with the flush even with speed bleeders.
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  #20  
Old 07-13-2008, 08:40 PM
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Re: How hard is a full brake job, honestly?

for you? easy! just get a.... pipe wrench a needle nose pliers and ahhh a grinding wheel... you should be able to figure out the rest
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