How hard is a full brake job, honestly?

[WestCoastSVX]

I got my brake order from SVXfiles and am ready to replace all the rotors and pads, and while I'm at it I'm sure the fluid could use replacing after 5 years since the last full brake job as well.

So in the interest of saving some money (the shop I trust will probably charge $300 or more) I am "considering" doing the job myself.

But being that brakes are a huge safety issue and not to be taken lightly, I want honest opinions on how hard they are to do RIGHT yourself.

I'm no mechanic, but I've done some stuff with this car based on the How-To's shared here - things like sparks plugs, PS o-ring, belts, etc. But if these things are done wrong the car just stops working. If brakes are done wrong people can die.

I found one How-To on here but I wasn't sure how accurate it was and it also doesn't go into bleeding the brakes/replacing fluid, which I think needs to be done.

Opinions and advice appreciated.

[JLHollowX13]

as far as replacing the pads and rotors, that is very easy. i replaced my pads recently, and the rotors are even simpler.

as for the fluid, ive never done a complete fluid flush, im not sure how to do that, but bleeding them is easy, which is all ive done. you just need a helper.

i think fluid places, like grease monkey, etc, do brake flushes, not sure how much, but im sure its alot less than 300, so doing the pads and rotors yourself and having someone else flush the fluid would probably be your best bet.

[SVXMAN2001]

I found this link while searching for how to retrofit R134a A/C systems...

This should give you a good idea of what to expect when replacing/installing brake rotors/pads...

http://www.expertvillage.com/video/1...rake-rotor.htm

good luck!

[RSVX]

Its super easy.

[TomsSVX]

The hardest part about the whole job is the lines.. if you are replacing the lines be sure to have a 10mm line wrench handy as those buggers can round off easy! Otherwise I would give it a 2.5out of 10 for difficulty but it can be time consuming

Tom

[mysvxrocks]

Hey, If you would like some help, I have changed my front ones. Just let me know

[WestCoastSVX]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

The hardest part about the whole job is the lines.. if you are replacing the lines be sure to have a 10mm line wrench handy as those buggers can round off easy! Otherwise I would give it a 2.5out of 10 for difficulty but it can be time consuming

Tom

Well I had stainless steel lines added the last time, 5 years ago. I'm assuming since I've had no major issues (other than wear and tear on the rotors and pads) that those lines would still be good?

I do have a new set of SS lines as it was actually cheaper to buy the full brake kit from OT than just the rotors and pads straight from RC. But if there's no reason to replace them, I'll just sell them to recoup some costs.

[Mr. Pockets]

Troy, if you're not replacing lines, then the whole job should be a snap.

I recommend getting a mity-vac to do the fluid change. That way you don't absolutely need a helper, although having somebody watching the reservoir with a can of fresh fluid is handy. This is especially true when you bleed the fronts, because you'll draw fluid through faster.

The only problem with using a mity-vac is that you usually draw air past the threads on the bleed screw. I usually put teflon tape on each one, which makes a better seal, but I almost always see bubbles anyway.

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets

Troy, if you're not replacing lines, then the whole job should be a snap.

I recommend getting a mity-vac to do the fluid change. That way you don't absolutely need a helper, although having somebody watching the reservoir with a can of fresh fluid is handy. This is especially true when you bleed the fronts, because you'll draw fluid through faster.

The only problem with using a mity-vac is that you usually draw air past the threads on the bleed screw. I usually put teflon tape on each one, which makes a better seal, but I almost always see bubbles anyway.

Also, speed bleeders... Great little invention replaces the bleeder valves in the calipers... It allows a one man bleed anytime you want to w/o hooking up a vaccum mechanism. If you are not doing lines this really gets a 1.5 out of 10 for difficulty unless there are bolts/parts stuck and give you a hard time... Just read up on the process anywhere u can find info and sleep on it... When you get your hands dirty, it will all come to you

Tom

[Tim]

Originally Posted by MacGyver

I got my brake order from SVXfiles and am ready to replace all the rotors and pads, and while I'm at it I'm sure the fluid could use replacing after 5 years since the last full brake job as well.

So in the interest of saving some money (the shop I trust will probably charge $300 or more) I am "considering" doing the job myself.

But being that brakes are a huge safety issue and not to be taken lightly, I want honest opinions on how hard they are to do RIGHT yourself.

I'm no mechanic, but I've done some stuff with this car based on the How-To's shared here - things like sparks plugs, PS o-ring, belts, etc. But if these things are done wrong the car just stops working. If brakes are done wrong people can die.

I found one How-To on here but I wasn't sure how accurate it was and it also doesn't go into bleeding the brakes/replacing fluid, which I think needs to be done.

Opinions and advice appreciated.

Even I can do it

Just don't ask me about caliper painting

[WestCoastSVX]

Thanks everyone for the great advice!

I'll definitely do this as soon as the Speed Bleeders I just ordered arrive.

What type of brake fluid do we use? Anyone use any "upgraded" fluid they swear by?

How much is needed to do a full fluid replacement? I assume 2 or 3 times capacity as I will need to keep filling the resovoir until it starts bleeding out clean?

Thanks again!

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by MacGyver

Thanks everyone for the great advice!

I'll definitely do this as soon as the Speed Bleeders I just ordered arrive.

What type of brake fluid do we use? Anyone use any "upgraded" fluid they swear by?

How much is needed to do a full fluid replacement? I assume 2 or 3 times capacity as I will need to keep filling the resovoir until it starts bleeding out clean?

Thanks again!

Prestone makes a good dot4 synthetic that I use in just about everything

tom

[dromano]

1. What is the fluid capacity of the brake system?

2. What is the step by step to change the brake fluid? I have a mity vac.

[Hondasucks]

Changing brake fluid is pretty easy. Use the mityvac to suck ALL the old fluid out of the master cylinder, and fill it with new fluid. (Don't worry about the "MAX" line at this point). I will usually flip the full bottle of brake fluid upside down into the top of the master cylinder, so I don't run out.
Attach the mityvac to one of the bleeder screws, and open the screw, suck the fluid out until it comes out clean, repeat with the other three, then remove the bottle from the master cylinder and suck it down to the proper level.


Brake job:

Front:
Remove caliper (14mm bolt), crack bleeder screw and press pistons back into caliper, close bleeder screw. Remove old brake pads and anti-rattle clips. Install new pads with new anti-rattle clips, and anti squeal shims.
To intall the rotors, you'll need to remove the two 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle. They are tight, you'll need a breaker bar.

Rears are similar, except you'll probably want to adjust the parking brake while you are in there.

What does your local dealer charge for a brake job? We charge roughly 2 hours per axle (@$85/hour) plus parts, although if you already have the parts, it'd be labor only. Might be worth it for safety's sake, as it easy to goof up if you don't know what you are doing, but brakes are really easy.

Most important thing to remember is once you get it all back together, pump the brake pedal a few times, to take up the slack in the system, since you will not have any brakes until this is done!

[Hocrest]

Originally Posted by MacGyver

Thanks everyone for the great advice!

I'll definitely do this as soon as the Speed Bleeders I just ordered arrive.

What type of brake fluid do we use? Anyone use any "upgraded" fluid they swear by?

How much is needed to do a full fluid replacement? I assume 2 or 3 times capacity as I will need to keep filling the resovoir until it starts bleeding out clean?

Thanks again!

Sorry I'm late with the reply, but I use Valvoline Synthetic. It's temp rating is within a few degrees of the expensive "race" fluids, but it is only a buck or two more than the others on the shelf. It is in every parts store in a brownish/gold container. If you're doing a full flush, get the quart container.

Also if you're doing a full flush, use a mity-vac, old turkey baster, or some rags to get as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir before you start flushing.