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  #1  
Old 05-06-2008, 11:26 PM
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kwren kwren is offline
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Getting the big old bolt loose...

on the crank pulley. Got my car back from the dealer today after 6 weeks of diagnosis and started going into the timing belt stuff. Got to the crank pulley and won't budge. I have removed it a dozen times in the last 3 years and never a problem. My big break over bar and the heavy mauled easily does the trick. I worked on it over an hour tonight and even resorted to a "bigger hammer". A big sledge hammer even, and it is way too tight, won't budge. Didn't think they went into that area, but in 6 weeks a lot of stuff could have happened.

Anyway, I probably have to wedge the fly wheel with something and need to know the best way to do that without damaging the flywheel.

Anyone have a better idea please respond.

All help appreciated.

Keith

Last edited by kwren; 05-06-2008 at 11:28 PM. Reason: more stuff
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  #2  
Old 05-06-2008, 11:49 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwren View Post
on the crank pulley. Got my car back from the dealer today after 6 weeks of diagnosis and started going into the timing belt stuff. Got to the crank pulley and won't budge. I have removed it a dozen times in the last 3 years and never a problem. My big break over bar and the heavy mauled easily does the trick. I worked on it over an hour tonight and even resorted to a "bigger hammer". A big sledge hammer even, and it is way too tight, won't budge. Didn't think they went into that area, but in 6 weeks a lot of stuff could have happened.

Anyway, I probably have to wedge the fly wheel with something and need to know the best way to do that without damaging the flywheel.

Anyone have a better idea please respond.

All help appreciated.

Keith
Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2008, 12:01 AM
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which wall?

Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au View Post
Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.
...............

I almost did it but I would still like a second opinion. No offense intended.

Could I maybe have a third opinion as well.

I am really a big chicken.
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  #4  
Old 05-07-2008, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by oab_au View Post
Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.
good idea, w/ good success rate, but sometimes it may result in teeth missing from the flex plate, or in our case the torque converter. I have seen it before.

Other idea would be to remove a inspection plug on the block/bell housing and stuff in a screwdriver, breaker bar, whatever...
The idea is to stop the flywheel from turning and then use a breaker bar on the crank bolt to loosen it. The slower introduction of stress on a small area would lessen the possibility of breaking a tooth. I have done it this way and never had a single issue ever. Using the starter is easier though. If you do do the starter method just make sure to disable the car in some way, like un plugging the ignition igniter on the firewall or removing the fuel pump fuse or something.
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  #5  
Old 05-07-2008, 12:41 AM
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ty Tex!

I like to have options and will mull over them!
Thanks again.
Keith
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  #6  
Old 05-07-2008, 12:44 AM
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I like to have options and will mull over them!
Thanks again.
Keith
Are you thinking that they messed something up? How much did weeks at the dealer cost you anyway?
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  #7  
Old 05-07-2008, 01:44 AM
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about 400 dollars

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Originally Posted by YourConfused View Post
Are you thinking that they messed something up? How much did weeks at the dealer cost you anyway?
they finally decided on a blown head gasket. To replace for $2200.00

I am checking on a belt skip notch thing first and go from there.

I'm Confused, but I think the diagnosis of blown head gasket after 6 weeks in the new Subaru loaner was their way of saying goodbye!

I will get it worked out but the big old bolt has been a project. I want to make sure the timing is ok before I go into it farther.

I appreciate it!
Keith
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  #8  
Old 05-07-2008, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au View Post
Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.

This is the method I always use, simple and easy.....
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  #9  
Old 05-07-2008, 06:41 AM
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there are crank pulley holding tools you can buy... i have a vice grips with a chain attached to it
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  #10  
Old 05-07-2008, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au View Post
Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.
+1

I rest it against the ground under the battery. I mean ground as in pavement, dirt, driveway, etc. And not the battery grounding point...
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  #11  
Old 05-07-2008, 09:49 AM
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Thanks everyone!

...............
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2008, 01:12 PM
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Tool

I just bought that crank pulley tool that was for sale on Ebay. I suspect it will pay for itself many times over in actual cost savings and/or time.

I would also check the timing belt jump problem unless you are getting water in your oil or oil in your water. Both of course sure signs of head gasket failure.

Are you losing any coolant? You can of course have a blown head gasket without noticable oil/coolant problems but you normally do have the problems.

Lee
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  #13  
Old 05-07-2008, 02:03 PM
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Thanks tor the input. It all addes up to a final solution.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lhopp77 View Post
I just bought that crank pulley tool that was for sale on Ebay. I suspect it will pay for itself many times over in actual cost savings and/or time.

I would also check the timing belt jump problem unless you are getting water in your oil or oil in your water. Both of course sure signs of head gasket failure.

Are you losing any coolant? You can of course have a blown head gasket without noticeable oil/coolant problems but you normally do have the problems.

Lee

I checked with the dealer and they do the starter thing to loosen the bolt.

I have never lost coolant and no water in the oil. I use synthetic and it is changed religiously.
Since the dealer has had the car for 6 weeks, I am not sure what they did but I was able to drive it home, about 16 miles without it going whacko.
They were suprised when I told them that it went that far. (I do prsay a lot!)

I will get the "Big old bolt" off and check the timing belt for slippage and hopefully it has slipped! If not then to plan "B" Not ready to take off the head yet.
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  #14  
Old 05-07-2008, 02:23 PM
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Are you serious?? I would NEVER use my starter motor to get a crank bolt loose. You are begging for disaster and flying tools. Gotta be honest, if they give me enough grief I will wedge the torque converter/flywheel with an appropriate sized flat blade. Using the starter is a REALLY bad idea and should never be recomended.

Tom
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  #15  
Old 05-07-2008, 02:51 PM
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Makes sense.

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Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
Are you serious?? I would NEVER use my starter motor to get a crank bolt loose. You are begging for disaster and flying tools. Gotta be honest, if they give me enough grief I will wedge the torque converter/flywheel with an appropriate sized flat blade. Using the starter is a REALLY bad idea and should never be recomended.

Tom
If the dealer breaks something, they just put it on our bill!

If we break something we have to pay for it ourselvs. Why would they care if they broke it? not
I will go out and look for a screwdriver and the torque converter,

brb
keith
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