The Subaru SVX World Network   SVX Network Forums
Live Chat!
SVX or Subaru Links
Old Lockers
Photo Post
How-To Documents
Message Archive
SVX Shop Search
IRC users:

Go Back   The Subaru SVX World Network > SVX Main Forums > MOD Mania > Wheels / Tires

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old 03-12-2008, 08:13 PM
crazyhorse's Avatar
crazyhorse crazyhorse is offline
242,000 mi on oem trans
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Greeneville, TN
Posts: 1,111
Registered SVX
I could definately see this on a forged wheel. Such as the JDM BBS wheels

I was thinking ours were cast though. I need to be careful about thinking though, it usually gets me in BIG trouble
__________________
[SIGPIC]http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=5569&dateline=1207440 507[/SIGPIC]
Naught but by the grace of God
"42"
Current Stable By Age:
'89 Subaru XT6 Silver "Audrey" as in Hepburn
'96 SVX LSi #767Brilliant Red "Lil Red" Now on the front burner. Looking for a totalled, but running parts car.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 03-12-2008, 08:21 PM
Crazy_pilot's Avatar
Crazy_pilot Crazy_pilot is offline
Moar shifty!
Subaru Gold Contributor
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada. Eh?
Posts: 4,560
Send a message via MSN to Crazy_pilot
Registered SVX
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyhorse View Post
I could definately see this on a forged wheel. Such as the JDM BBS wheels

I was thinking ours were cast though. I need to be careful about thinking though, it usually gets me in BIG trouble
Ya, me too...

I actually looked up the temperatures and times needed to bake powdercoating, and then what's needed to temper forged alloys. I can't remember the numbers off hand, but the end result was that the powdercoat baking process is neither hot enough, nor long enough to significantly affect the molecular structure of an alloy wheel. Tempering is done several hundred degrees hotter (like 600 F for tempering vs 400 for coating), and takes longer than the baking does.

If I ever wanted to re-do my forged BBS rims and had the money, I wouldn't hesitate to powdercoat them.
__________________
Chris

92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping
2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos
2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold
2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl

Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 03-12-2008, 09:37 PM
Djsvxxl's Avatar
Djsvxxl Djsvxxl is offline
Income+SVX=$0
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hamilton,NJ
Posts: 43
Send a message via AIM to Djsvxxl
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94SubieSVX View Post
Just get it done professionally
I'am a professional

or at least I'm working with one.
still like the painting over the powder coating
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
"Nissan 240 with custom windows"
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 03-13-2008, 10:48 AM
RallyBob's Avatar
RallyBob RallyBob is offline
Registered fabricator
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 277
FWIW, I have seen firsthand the result of powdercoating a forged BBS (STI) wheel, and it wasn't pretty. Keeping in mind that different brands and colors of powdercoat have different curing temps, (350-500° F), there is sufficient heat to anneal aluminum. It basically makes the wheel very soft by removing the heat-treatment, and at that point the wheel is more succeptible to bending (but ironically resists breakage more readily). For comparison, I anneal copper gaskets by heating to 350° for 30 minutes, and it makes it dead-soft.

Even cast wheels will be affected at higher temps. It depends a lot on the alloy used however. Higher grade wheels are generally more easily affected from what I've seen, at least in terms of reduction percentage of strength compared to OEM, since they are normally heat treated to higher specification.

Another issue is that it is fairly common practice for powdercoaters to bake a wheel at extended high temps (550°) to aid in removal of factory paint and powdercoat prior to beadblasting. This particular process is usually the culprit, rather than the curing process. If the wheel is polished and is being prepared for clearcoat, this is often the only option, since bead blasting would damage the polished surface. The surface of the wheel must be 'clean-clean' to avoid outgassing during the curing process, since there will likely be residual paint, oils, brake dust, and polishing compounds imbedded in the aluminum's surface.

HTH,
__________________
Bob Légère

EG33 Impreza tweaks
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 03-13-2008, 06:42 PM
Djsvxxl's Avatar
Djsvxxl Djsvxxl is offline
Income+SVX=$0
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hamilton,NJ
Posts: 43
Send a message via AIM to Djsvxxl
OK... so I'm gonna paint them with clear
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
"Nissan 240 with custom windows"
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 SVX World Network
(208)-906-1122